Advice for a new bow hunter

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Kachok

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I have been hunting for years, and I have shot bows for years, it is not until this year I am putting them together and going to actualy bowhunt. I bought a Kronic compound, and been practicing with it. I have never used a tree stand only blinds, and homemade box stands. I would like some sugestions as far as what kind of tree stand I should be looking for, tips on scent lures to get a deer within 30 yards, and any other misc tips that a new bow hunter should know. I am still getting used to the 55lbs lbs draw weight, but I can reguraly touch my fletchings on a 3 shot group @ 20yards so I think my shooting is almost ready.
 
Well Kachok, Welcome to archery hunting first off. Now for your question.
What kind of trees you have in your areas for hunting plays a very important role in what kind of stands. If you have some trees that are pretty straight and branches that are easily removed so you can get up to around 15 feet, a climber stand is perfect. Easy mobility. If you have some that have a ton of branches or have some curvy trunks, a chain on or ladder stand is the ticket. It is up to the areas and the trees with those. Second, you also need to practice from the heights that you will be hunting from with your bow. The angle is different and you need to practice from that different angle at the ranges you will be hunting. Also, placement on a deers anatomy changes at various heights. A shot in one spot from the ground would be a double lung, perfect hit, but that same spot from say 15 feet up, would be a single lung hit that you may or may not recover. I have seen single lung hit deer go for a mile before going down (was pushed). So basically you have to visualize the difference from the height.
As Far as lures go, there are so many out there that are basically just lures for your wallet I have a hard time recommending many. Avoid the Walmart specials. SOME of them will lure in your young inexperienced bucks, but a mature buck will avoid 99.9% of those like the plague. Code Blue has an excellent product and works quite well. BUT make sure you use the correct product for the proper time of the year. Example: When you see the rut is on, Doe in Heat is to be used, If it is pre rut and they are not chasing yet, a good Tarsal Gland urine in a mock scrape is a lethal ticket. Archery is much more difficult yet much more gratifying when you connect.
Scouting is of utmost need in archery. You need to find the trails leading from the bedding areas to the food sources. If you find a good trail between them with a water source on it, you have found a gold mine! Also, if you have Oak Trees in your areas, when the acorns start falling get close to them because that will attract the deer like chocolate to a woman!
All said, the wind is your main opposition, scent lock suits and such are a waste of money. If the wind is wrong for your set, back out and don't set up in that spot. The best thing about climbing stands is the ability to be mobile and switch locations if the wind is bad. Always try to have a backup location for just such an instant. Other than that, stay safe and good luck. Hope this helped you some
 
At 55lbs, make sure you know the vitals, a hit in the shoulder blade won't do, so know you have to hit behind that. Tree stands are the best, higher the better. This helps greatly in deer not seeing you an helps with scent control. I seldom ever used lures, I use my own voice to mimick doe an fawn bleats an its deadly, but usually only works when the rut is beginning. Had good luck with rattling antlers also later in the season just before the rut an during. What kind of deer stand....any thats gets you up in the tree! I use a light weight aluminum one, you might consider a safety harness for your self in case you fall it can save you. The more your out the more you will learn. Always be looking around, just don't set there looking in one direction. Make sure you can get your bow an shoot fast if need be, trust me things can happen fast!!!!!!! I spend most of my time in the stand, standing not sitting. Know your ranges an where your shooting lanes are...a good way to know your ranges is to pace off from your stand in difererent direction an stick a stick in the ground or mental note of a tree at 10 yds, 20 yds,.....if possiable practice shooting from a stand. Good luck!!!!
 
I've been deer hunting since the late 70's and shooting bows since the early 60's and have made just about every mistake there is to make. It sounds like you're on track. Keep asking questions, there's no point in trying to reinvent the wheel. Your accuracy is very good, I'm assuming you are practicing with your broadheads (they sometimes fly to a different point of impact than your field points.)

When in your tree stand and looking around, move your eye's-not your head. Any movements should be very slow. Deer don't normally look up, but if they've been hunted by stand hunters before, they will look up.

As was mentioned, 'FULL BODY HARNESS' when you get into the stand. Do not use a belt, if you do fall and hit your head on the stand/tree the safety belt will constrict your chest and diaphragm enough to deprive your lungs of oxygen. There is a quadriplegic in town who thought he didn't need a belt (25+ yrs ago). He was under 30 yrs old with a young family when the limb he was standing on broke. Very sad.

Stay away from expanding broadheads, I've never seen one yet that didn't fail at some time. Stay with a chisel pointed (not conical pointed) broadhead that starts cutting on impact. If the broadheads aren't sharp enough to dry shave with, they're not sharp enough to hunt with. Don't assume the pre-sharpened replaceable blade broadheads are razor sharp, trust but verify. I've used basically nothing else since I started. From the old Green Bear Razorhead then to Zwickeys when Bear discontinued the old green ones. Your poundage is totally adequate as long as you are shooting a sharp broadhead with a arrow that's spined correctly. I've shot deer with poundage from 60-96 and they always pass through, with the exception of a spine shot Mule Deer at a longer distance than I would try today.

The most important thing, RELAX AND ENJOY. The memories you will look back on in coming years will be of the peace you enjoyed while sitting in the stand watching squirrels, fawns, coyotes, and nature in general.

FWIW
 
I think stork really hit the nail on the head. I have been shooting archery for 27 years and hunting with a bow for 20.

As far as tree stands go you have three basic types
1. a hang-on style
2. a climber
3. a ladder stand.

Each of these stand types has their pro's and con's. A climber is probably the simpilest to get on to the tree but requires a realitivly straight tree and practice in using it safely. Don't try and sprint up a tree use a safety harness and make slow upward movement adjusting your harness as you acend and decend the tree.

The hang-on style stand requires a means of climbing the tree to the position in which you will be hunting. Screw in tree steps, strap on steps, or climbing sticks are most commonly used. A full body harness with a linemans belt is a must to stay safe while climbing the tree to install your stand. If using a screw in style step avoid trees with thick bark or trees with a chance or rot or decay. Always have your climbing aide go well above your platform position so that you can step down onto the middle of your stand. Do not use your stand to help you in getting in.

A ladder stand is by far the safest type of stand but requires a fairly straight tree. A level ground surface and three people to install and take down. Select a ladder stand that has criss cross straps which will help to stablize the stand as you climb to attach the top strap or chain.

If you decide to use a hang-on stand or a ladder stand I would recommend the use of a life line. They can be bought commercailly from gorilla or hunter safety system as well as many other outlets. It is basically a rope tied well above your sitting height in the stand to the ground or base of your stand. In the middle is a attachement point with a prussik knot to attach your harness to it. This allows you to be attached to the tree from the moment you leave the ground untill your feet are firmly back.

Other wise wash yourself, wear clean clothes, and watch wind and movement. It doesn't matter how much scent blocker, scent soap, special boots, ect that you buy. The wind will bust you. Other wise sit back have fun and enjoy.

Also I agree with the avoidance of mechanical broadheads but that is my opinion I have never seen one that did not fail at some point. Only shoot to a distance that you can hit your target each and everytime no questions asks and no excusses. 55# is more than enough with a sharp broadhead. I used to shoot 80# bows and found out they are pretty hard to drawn when you are cold. The I had a arrow pass through a elk at 42 yards with a 57# bow. more than enough to convince me.

Keep up with any questions many of us on the THR like sticks and strings as much as we like bang sticks.
 
OK a few more details, I will be hunting in south Alabama, so streight trees are not hard to find, although I might have to cut a few branches if I want to get over 12' high. I don't own any land I will be hunting on public land or if I am lucky I will find another land owner that will let me hunt, so a fixed stand would be kind of hard to work with. I also live in a 30' travel trailer (mobile job situation) so haveing a lager bulky lader stand would be challenging. I guess that limits me to a compact climber, any sugestions on brand or model? I too have long been skeptical of mechanical broadheads, I bought some 100gr Team Realtree Chiz-L Broadheads. They are 3 blade chisle tip, and I think the have a 1 1/4" cutting diamater, does anyone have any experence with these or similar broadhead? I don't put much faith in oder blocking clothing but I did buy some Scent-A-Way to spray on before I go out. I figured it best to start with 55lbs draw weight, i am a rather small hunter 5'6" 170lbs and until recently the highest draw weight I shot was a 32lbs, but if I want to I can tune the bow up to 70lbs, but like a few of you have already said I don't think it is esential, 55 should work fine on these Alabama bucks and feral hogs as long as I don't hit any hard bones.
 
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55 should be fine. Killed a lot of deer with a longbow growing up and I know from 8 to 15 I was NOT even close to 55 pounds pulling.

If you will be hunting public land, you cant cut limbs on trees or install screw in steps for chain on stands but they do make strap on steps and climbing sticks which are very nice. Never tried those particular broad heads. I've been using G5 Montechs for a good while now, also use Slick Tricks with excellent results. I prefer cut on impact broad heads rather than the chisel points for lower poundage bows but as long as you try to stay behind the shoulder you should be fine. As far as the mechanicals go, the ONLY ones I could recommend with a clear conscience would be the Rage broad heads. Them buggers are absolutely FEROCIOUS but I think 55 pounds would be on the minimum side of the pounds and would be a little too close for my comfort to use. I hunted in Alabama many times and you will find most of the landowners there very kind as long as you are kind to them. Be polite and respectful when you ask permission and more than likely, in archery, you can gain access. Just don't expect it during rifle. Always close any gates you open and never leave any trash and you will have no problems with them. Upset ONE and it will travel like wildfire and you wont get permission to hunt ANYWHERE within 100 miles.

Good luck to you in your hunts.
 
Yeah I have seen the Rage 2" cutting diamater heads, that would be a nasty wound no doubt, but with my short 26" draw, and 55 lbs draw weight I am only getting about 265 fps with carbon arrows, I don't think that is enough speed to drive it through a healthy buck. Alabama does have a new law allowing crossbows during archery season, that would give me all the speed of a full draw compound, but if I can get satisfactory results from a regular bow I would much rather use it, Crossbows would give me an extra 15 yds effective range, but I don't think they are quite as sporting.
 
Everyone has given you excellent advice. The only thing I can give you is that if you plan on hunting out of tree stand, start practicing out of a tree stand. That will get you used to your ranges changing because 20 yards out of a tree stand isn't the same shot as 20 yards on the ground.

Plus you're now confined to the tree stand and you'll be shooting from different and sometimes awkward angles and positions that you aren't used to.

I had my tripod stand in my backyard for three months before I took it to the woods to hunt from just to practice from it. I'm glad I did.
 
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I personally own and use all of these products and would recommend any of them. When looking for a stand to use bow hunting you want them pretty minimal. All of those extra peices of metal, straps, rails ect are just crap to hit your bow on. I to use G5 monotech broadheads and I am very happy with them. If you are running 265 actual fps not a IBO rating on your bow. Mechanical broadheads are fine at that speed. I however will warn you about the rage broadheads. Yes a 2" hole is great but I have seen a precious few of these type heads make a exit wound. So if you are in a tree at 12 to 15' shooting a downward angle. Your broadhead should enter a little high on the animal just behind the shoulder. Now if that broadheads enters the animal and does not exit. Sure the animal is bleeding like crazy. No blood however or very little blood will reach the ground. So if the shot is less than great the blood will pool inside of the body since it won't run up hill and out the high hole. No blood trail so find someone who knows how to track a animal.

Last thing I will say is that the 12' height you mentioned is plenty. Folks think they need to be 25' in the air and that's just plain wrong. The higher you go the more angles effect your shots and the more that tree moves in the wind. Even a slight breeze of 10mph can move you a darn lot. Keep up the questions any of us would be glad to help.
 
The 265 fps number I quoted is off an archery calculator, it does figure in arrow weight/letoff/draw length/draw weight, I figure I will be within +/- 15 fps of that. I don't have a crono to get an exact number. A good crossbow would give about 340 fps IBO. I thought about getting some Muzzy 3 blade 1 1/2" broadheads, but I decided to error on the side of penatration for the exact reason you mentioned, all the cutting area in the world does no good at all if I don't have an exit wound to trail with. I know a well placed arrow kills within seconds, but nowhere near as fast as my T3 6.5x55. I focus alot on shot placement, so I have never trailed anything I have ever shot, they have always fallen on the spot or just a few feet from it, so blood trailing will be a new experence for me, how far does a heart/lung arrow shot deer ususaly run before the blood loss makes the drop? What is the real advantage/disadvantage of the "cut to point" vs the chisel tip three blade? Should I only take quartering away shots with an bow? Or are there other angles that work just as well?
 
I prefer a quartering away shot on most animals. In doning so you can peirce the heart, liver, lungs, everything in one swipe.

A broadside shot is fine and don't keep worring about your speed you have plenty. Does not matter what the latest and greatest bows are shooting you have a gods plenty to do the job. With your current bow speed and a arrow of say 8.2 grains per inch and a 100 grain arrow head 20 grain nock and 30 grain instert. You are hitting roughly the same engery as a .38 spcl. So no more worries about that.

A chisel type broadhead is suposed to better at breaking bones is they hit one. I can tell you yes they do work but a cnc head moving at that speed at a target inside 30 yards will blow through a shoulder with some authority. Muzzy broadheads were the cream of the crop for some time and they still are a great broadhead I am not knocking them a bit. True CNC heads like the monotech and the Magnus Snuffer IMHO tune easier and fly a little better.

This is another thing that is a plus for you. Since you are running a bow that is a little under that 300fps that everyoen seems to want to reach. A fixed blade broadhead once tuned will not have as mush tendancy to plane in the air.

Keep you shots forward of the diaphram and most of the animals I have take probably made it no more than 45-50 yards. After shooting a animal with a bow sit down and wait for 30 min. It is the longest 30min of your life but let that animal lay down and finish bleeding out. Aproach the animal from the back side and gently touch the eye with a arrow. If it blinks step back and place another arrow. No need to jab just a gentle touch will tell the tale.
 
+1 on the waiting 30 minutes. A well hit deer will rarely go more than 100 yards before stopping if you don't push it. I personally believe, with archery, a dead on broadside double lung hit is the best you can do. The shock from it will put them down very fast. Also it is MUCH better for trailing than a heart hit. Heart hit deer means no pumping of blood so you get much less of a blood trail since you are relying on gravity drips verses lung hit sprays. In the fall of the year when there are a LOT of red leaves on the ground you want as heavy of a trail as you can get.

As far as the Rage not penetrating/passing through, I have several friends that hunt with them exclusively and I can think of only one that didn't get a pass through. That was a shot at 42 yards hitting dead center shoulder bone. Most of them use the 2 blade, but a couple of them use the 3 blade with much success. I am more than happy with my G5's though (with slick trick backups :) )

As far as the Cut on Impact verses Chisel point, With fast heavy arrows, the chisel points are great for really busting through bone. But a Cut on Impact (a well made one) will do it just as well and with much less energy needed. Dead broadside to quartering away are your best shots. With a quartering away shot, draw a line on the deer to where your arrow will be aimed to exit just behind the opposite shoulder. That gives you the easiest path with maximum damage to the lungs. As jbk stated, tune your broad head setups to eliminate planing. By that he means, align the BH's to your fletchings so that the BH's aren't fighting your fletchings for control. My G5's fly dead on with my field tips and no tuning is needed. Part of why I love them. Same with the slick tricks. Also Rocket Steel heads with the bacon skinner blades perform as well in flight but I didn't see as well in the penetration department from them as I do from the other 2.

As previously said, after contact, sit down, calm down, wait for about 30 minutes then come down from the tree, find your arrow and check the blood on the fletchings. Deep red means arterial/possibly heart, Foamy/bubbly light red/pink means lungs, Dark red almost a brown tint means liver, White or green means you are in for a trailing job gut hit and you may be hitting up a farmer for the use of a good bloodhound to find your deer. Always carry a good supply of tie on trail markers for blood trailing. In some cases even a well hit deer may not bleed a whole lot so tie off a marker at the last spotted blood and start a circle pattern at the last point of blood and expand out. Avoid the old wives tales like "hit deer won't go up hill" believe me a deer will go whatever direction it is pointed in and wherever it's ancestral trails go. If you lose blood and the trail is heading towards water, start at the banks of the nearest water as deer DO head for water when hit marginally (gut). Work your way back from the water to the last blood and you will have a good chance of finding it.

Good luck

Edit note: Don't forget to REMOVE those trail markers after you find your deer. Clean and Green!!
 
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The only thing I could add is to use range makers the same color as the sight pin for that range. When buck fever strikes the range/pin combo is a no brainer and the less you have to think about the better. Long time gun hunters can still get buck fever when out with a new type weapon.
 
azyogi, the minute I STOP getting buck fever and excited is the minute I will quit hunting!! Hasn't happened in over 40 years of hunting and I hope it never does.
 
The only place I have seen G5s is Bass Pro, they has hefty prices on most things, but their customer service is OUT OF THIS WORLD! When I went to buy my bow, the salesman took 3 hours custom tuning, sighting, tweeking my bow to make sure it was perfect for me. He stayed 30 min after closing to make sure he had it just right. I hate to pay twice what discount store prices are, but for that kind of service how can I say no. That great salesman also recomended the G5s, I guess I should take a hint and give them a try.
 
monotech broadheads run $34.99 for a three pack. So not that bad in my book. I have taken 6 or 7 animals with one head before it was retired to a practice head. And yes I still shoot it to practice not to hunt anymore. So in all reality not terribly overpriced unless you loose it on the first shot. I have one in a tree down in TX right now. The broadhead a $16 arrow and a $11 Nockturnal made for a expensive miss on a hog first morning of the hunt.

The arrow sailed right over the back of the pig hitting a rock and skipping the arrow up. i found it about 20' in a nasty mesquite tree. I just donated that one not worth the cuts to get.
 
20" into mesquite!! That is some really hard wood. Yikes. I am not doubt the penatration of anything that will do that. I would think that somthing that hard would sheer the blades off any sectional broadhead.
 
lol, he said 20 FEET up in that tree not into it. He didn't want to climb all them thorns for the arrow. Don't blame him either. Them Mesq trees are nasty
 
And the G5 Montechs are one piece. Blades are integral with the ferrule not like most that are slipped in and held by a washer. Very tough design. Easily sharpened as well
 
That sounds a little more realistic, my old 7 mag would blow through a large mesquite with bonded 175gr bullets, but that is about the only thing. Those are nasty and very hard. I lived in TX for several years. People always talk bad about the size of deer in TX but some of the largest I have ever seen have come from there. Around Gonzales the white tail are monsters, and out west around Fort Stockton the mulies looked like horses with antlers!! I have yet to see a "Black belt" Bama white tail that mesures up. My Grandpa, had trophies on his wall that put "trophies" around here to shame, and he only hunted in TX.
 
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I had to re-read my post on arrow penatration. 20" would of been pretty far fetched. Anyway I saw a flat ton of whitetails in TX about three weeks ago while on my bowhunt in Decatur. yes TX does has some big deer but in the area i was in not so much. Some pretty decent racks but no where near the size of animal as a mid-western buck around here.

I wish you great luck in this years hunting with your new bow. Remember any animal taken with the ole stick in string takes everything really coming together. That old gray faced doe will bust your butt 10 times faster than the wisest buck in the woods. Be patient and enjoy nature in a new way. I have seen more critters bowhunting than I have ever seen with a rifle in my hands. The combination of more time in the woods, more attention to your surroundings, and less movement will bring you in contact with things you have only seen in a magazine.
 
LMAO, Kachok, you think them Ga deer are small, Take a gander at Florida deer. I've seen bigger POODLES!!! (That should get some flamers going :evil: ) Body wise, It's according to where in Texas you are. Some Tx deer are pretty decent in body size but trust me, They are no match for your midwestern and upper northern deer as far as body mass. Your AVERAGE Saskatchewan Canada deer is around 250 field dressed. Dragging them jokers out is a job to say the least. Hotter climates generate smaller body size in whitetail deer. You will find that your bigger body deer in Texas are from the Mountain ranges in the cooler climates. A lot of the whoppers down there in south Texas are genetically manipulated with strains of the upper northern deer. They have been doing that for a couple of decades now and it is really starting to show in the general populations of deer taken down there.
 
Verry hard to beat a MUZZY BAD TO THE BONE. been shooting them for years you put them where they need to go and it will do the job. Im not sold on macanical blades (to many things can go wrong)keep it simple. and have fun.
 
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