Advice on how to strip paint from a Beretta CX4 Storm

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mberoose

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Over the weekend I picked up a Beretta CX4 Storm in .45ACP for CHEAP.

Unfortunately, the first owner decided to paint it green, which looks terrible. Paint is flaking off, and it looks pretty haggard to me. I gotta save this poor thing.

I don't think it's Duracoat or anything, and thankfully the barrel wasn't painted either, so I'm just looking to strip the stock down. I could be totally wrong about the paint though. The paint is thick enough where you can't just take it off with your fingernail.

Any recommended products or methods to remove paint from polymer rifles like this? I already spoke with Beretta, and they said I'd be better off re-painting it, which frankly, I'd rather not do, but if I have to so be it. Figured I'd see if anybody here is experienced with this sort of thing.

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Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. :D
 
The only two ways I know of to remove that paint is either solvent or sandblast. I would be hesitant to go the solvent route. Sandblasting would require a new color to be applied as it etches the plastic.
 
That's a tough one... a solvent /stripper strong enough to get it off might chemically react with the polymer stock.

(I know this from personal experience: a surprise stripping of my 10/22 receiver when "cleaning" it with Brownell's Blastn'Shine...that rubbery black coating came right off.)

Whichever product you go with, i'd put some on a q-tip and test it on a small unseen portion of the stock before going overboard...
 
Try some Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner. Ive painted a bunch of guns, using paints like Testors and Krylon, and removed the paint later using either Gun Scrubber or Hoppes. It takes some work, and sometimes with plastics, its not always complete, but unless its something like Aluma Hyde II or one of the more permanent finishes, it should come off.
 
Thanks for the responses so far. I'm going to spot-test Hoppe's to see how it goes.

Another person I spoke with recommended the Soy Gel line of strippers, due to the lack of methylene chloride in it, which, according to him, makes it perfectly safe for polymer.
 
Thanks for the responses so far. I'm going to spot-test Hoppe's to see how it goes.

Another person I spoke with recommended the Soy Gel line of strippers, due to the lack of methylene chloride in it, which, according to him, makes it perfectly safe for polymer.
Absolutely not....Quote from Soy Gel Manufacturer.

"Soy Gel is safe to use on concrete, brick, stone, metal, plaster, wood and many other surfaces. Do not use on plastic, PVC, rubber or dry wall. Soy Gel may be used indoors or outdoors. When used outdoors, protect plant and vegetation with a plastic drop cloth. Soy Gel may be used on vertical as well as horizontal projects."
 
I agree with ApacheCoTodd soda would be lot better on plastic, If you don't have a sand blaster I had some luck with this gun that has a hopper on top and you just use your air compressor. I don't know if it works with soda and I don't know where I got it. Sorry
 
I've heard of people using sugar cubes to get annoying labels off of consumer electronics. Can't say if it'd be abrasive enough to get the paint off without harming the polymer. Just a thought.

Although I don't know that it's very practical in this situation. It'd take a lot of time and sugar cubes to get the job done here, but if you're desperate it might be worth a shot.
 
Dry ice blasting would probably do the trick but that is usually a treatment for mold abatement and rental machines are hard to come by. It would do the trick though because the dry ice (unlike sand) would evaporate immediately when it comes in contact with the frame. The sand would get into all the nooks and crannies and be very difficult to remove.
 
I'm a guy who does a fair amount or fishing reel repairs along with rod repair/re-finishing. There are solvents that will remove paint but not damage the underlying plastic (but the usual precautions apply, start with a very small area that's not on the exterior if possible). In order of preference I usually start with rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth (which hardly has any effect on any finishes), then go to mineral spirits, finally lacquer thinner (which will actually remove most paint while barely effecting any plastic items). I don't saturate the working cloth, just dampen it, then work slowly allowing the cloth to pic up any softened or dissolved paint, while constantly using new cloth surfaces... Hope this helps, if the paint is thick enough that it's already flaking you make be able to remove some of it using a plastic (not metal) scraper without marking the surface underneath.

Re-read this and realized I didn't explain how to actually use that lacquer thinner cloth. Rub any painted area and you'll see the paint gradually transfer to the cloth (that's why you keep changing surfaces and re-dampen the cloth periodically...). It takes a bit of elbow grease and time but I have removed the finish from quite a few rods this way... Post up if it works (or doesn't...).
 
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