Advice on M1 Garand Issues

[Gypsy39]

I have a couple issues with my M1 Garand.

The bolt doesn't release when the enbloc is latched, and the when the bolt releases the first cartridge doesn't feed unless give the cocking handle a tap forward.

I have already replaced:

op rod catch
bullet guide
follower arm

So for the first problem, that leaves the op rod assembly. Which I assume means the op rod itself. Is that the only thing left to consider?

The second problem leads me to think that the op rod is binding on the wood inside the stock. How can I tell if this is the case? And how do I determine where exactly to relieve the wood enough so this doesn't happen? (I've taken out the guts from the receiver and then cycled the action manually with the bolt inside and there doesn't seem to be any binding at all.)

Other possibilities that I know of are: the ejector is broken/frozen, the extractor isn't opening enough to pass over the rim of the cartridge, weak op rod spring, headspacing, bolt is binding, damaged or deformed bolt or receiver. (I've taken apart the bolt and all components appear fine.)

I believe that I'm lubricating properly with grease so I'm ruling that out for now.

Any advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[30Cal]

For the oprod, do the tilt test. Remove the oprod spring and trigger group, put the action back in the stocks and tilt up and down 45º. If it won't cycle on it's own freely, find out where it rubs.

Most M1's won't load the first round without a bump. I have had a half dozen Garands and only one has done it semi-reliably. You're going down the right path if you want to fix it--buy a pile of parts and keep swapping till it works.

 

[Trebor]

I agree that while the M-1 is *supposed* to have the bolt run forward on its own as soon as the clip bottoms out, most rifles do require a tap on the Op-rod to load.

While it's not technically "in spec" to require a tap on the Op-rod, it is common enough to be considered "normal" and not really a problem. This does date back to the war, btw, so it's not a just a problem relating to the rifle's current age.

Now, if you do want to get it to feed the way its "supposed" to work, without having to tap the Op-rod, yeah, change out a bunch of parts and you should probably find the right combination that works.

But, just do that if you want to do that. Don't worry too much about the rifle being "broken" if the Op-rod doesn't fly forward on it's own.

Up to you to decide how big of a deal it is.

 

[Gypsy39]

Thanks, tilt test is good to go. Good to know that most Garands have the same issue of the first round needing some assistance to chamber. Looks like I'll still need to replace the op rod so that the bolt at least releases properly. Although it functions fine after that, so I suppose it may not be essential either.

 

[USSR]

Looks like I'll still need to replace the op rod so that the bolt at least releases properly.

Nope. Probably 90% or more of all Garands need the "M1 bump". It's perfectly normal and replacing the op rod will not change it.

Don

 

[10X]

Hitting the op rod with the heel of your hand to chamber the first round is normal. When an M1 gets well worn then you won't have to do that.

 

[Gypsy39]

Nope. Probably 90% or more of all Garands need the "M1 bump". It's perfectly normal and replacing the op rod will not change it.

Separate problem. The bolt also does not release when the clip is latched.

It does still need a bump after it releases to feed all the way.

 

[foghornl]

Checked the main spring? That one spring does a whole buncha stuff on the M1.

 

[HexHead]

The "M1 bump" sure beats "M1 thumb".

 

[Slamfire]

I have to bump mine or pull the operating rod back. Custom built NM Garands, rack grades, you name it.

 

[30Cal]

Just to be clear,

Nothing should be really doing anything until the clip is latched and pressure is removed from the top of the clip.

 

[Acera]

Gypsy39 be careful that you don't "fix" it until it is broke. (Think Michael Jackson )

I have seen too many people chase the rabbit down that hole.

They have taken a reliable rifle, filled it with aftermarket and replacement parts, spent time and a lot of money on it and end up with a rifle that does not work as well as it did when they first got it.

 

[dfariswheel]

To be clear: Replacing the op rod WILL DO NOTHING for this. The op rod has little effect on how the rifle chambers.

If you insert a clip ALL THE WAY IN until it locks, the bolt moves forward a fraction of an inch, then stops and needs a bump, your rifle is working properly and needs no "Repair".

A good idea is to replace the op rod spring, since that CAN affect feed. The M1 rifle recoil spring powers the entire action, and many M1 "problems" are cured by a new spring.
Buy a new M1 spec spring from Fulton or Orion 7. DO NOT install any type of "extra power" spring. The M1 was designed to work with a USGI spec spring and a stronger one often causes problems.

 

[FLNT4EVR]

Personaly I enjoy giveing my op-rod the m1 bump,knowing that was the way the GI's had to use the rifle in combat, it just adds to the expierence.

 

[FlyinBryan]

yup, bumping the first round in is even in the manual.

it say "you may" need to assist the bolt on the first round only.

if it were the 2nd or 3rd, then its a problem.

 

[61chalk]

"The OP rod has little effect on how the rifle chambers"...

On my Garand it did, it would not even chamber with a strong bump to the handle. Had to pull back an release to chamber. I found the the OP rod has 2 bends in it, perhaps from long use, the bends for what ever reason were bent more than they should be. I found this out by finding out if I slapped the OP handle downward, twisting the OP, it would chamber. I worked on the OP rod an straightened it slightly at the bends, which took enough of the twist out. It performs 100% better. After flipping my thumb away from the downward pressure of the enbloc it will now actually chamber on its own about 40% of the time. When it doesn't, just a slight bump from the rear sends it forward. So the OP rod can affect chambering.