help me interpret this garand op rod test

[knights_armorer]

this is a little op rod test from "The M1 Garand Complete Assembly Guide" by Walt Kuleck and Clint Mckee. it refers to a little test of the op rod and its position at rest, in battery, with an empty chamber. (on a completed rifle of course)

also, it does not specify, but i believe this test is meant to be conducted with the rifle right side up, and level (as it would be if it were being pointed down range.

and i quote:

"be sure the op rod has remained centered. check for op rod binding in the stock forend and both handguards."

"push straight down on the op rod handle and "snap" release the handle. the handle should spring back up to its original position. this is known as a "live rod", indicating that the op rod is not binding on the rear handguard or stock."


now,,,,,,,,does this mean that when at rest, in battery, the op rod should ideally rest on the upper bearing surface of the op rod track?


ps. i ask because mine rests quite firmly in the "upward" manner, and when holding the rifle level and flat, i can push down on the handle and it does in fact move down a bit (maybe .050" or less.) then springs back up when released.

 

[7mmsavage]

That's what it souds like to me, but I know of a more definitive test. Remove the butt stock and op rod spring. Start with the rifle held horizontal and lift the muzzle to no more than 45 degrees. The op rod should move back and the bolt open completely. Then lower the muzzle, again to no more than 45 degrees downward, and your opp rod should go back to it's forward position, completely closing the bolt. If it hangs up anywhere along the way you know you have a problem. Not that your rifle wouldn't fire, but you may not get the best possible accuracy.

 

[Slamfire]

now,,,,,,,,does this mean that when at rest, in battery, the op rod should ideally rest on the upper bearing surface of the op rod track?

I remember talking to Gene Barnett, the barrel maker and an ex armorer.

He mentioned that he still was unable to determine that there was any difference in group size between a live or dead operating rod.

I am of the opinion that you do not want the operating rod to rub the handguards, and you want the thing to drop under its own weight in the track, with the bolt removed.

I have one M1a that the operating rubs on the rail. It still shoots 1.25 MOA, or better.