AK lower handguard question

[MTMilitiaman]

Aftering threading my muzzle for a flash surppressor I plan on putting an Ultimak on my WASR. I am still a little confused as to what I want to do for lower handguards but I want something synethic that can take the heat, if there is such a thing. My rifle has a steel pin through the wood handguards that are on it now and it heats up fast. Right now I am considering the Choate sold by Ultimak and the TDI sold by ACE, but have also looked at the Galil style sold in TAPCO. I am wary of TAPCO cause in my experience, they tend to not sell the highest quality AK furniture. I was wondering what the general concensus was for the best synethic lower handguards on the market in terms of shooting comfort and heat dissipation. Thanks.

 

[MudPuppy]

Thought about an AMD style foregrip?

 

[clange]

The choate ones have been rumored to melt, they have no heat shield. The only polymer ones that really hold up are the k-var ones, they're made almost exactly like the real military stuff.

Edit: http://www.k-var.com/product.asp?0=216&1=241&3=279

Pricey at almost $40, but like i said, its the best US made one you can get. The entire stock set is $85.

 

[MTMilitiaman]

I was looking at the TDI one featured here: http://www.aceltdusa.com/ak.htm
PIC: http://www.aceltdusa.com/images04/AK/HG-TDIsde.jpg

And it is even more expensive. That isn't what bothers me. I just want to know if a) it is going to be compatible with the Ultimak and b) if it is going to melt on me if I decide to put a couple 30 rounds mags out really fast.

As opposed to spending $200+ on a metal tri-rail system, like the one offered by Ultimak, even the TDI is cheap assuming I can make it work with the Ultimak scope rail and it doesn't overheat and melt/burn my hand.

 

[Jrm5204]

I just got my TDI lower handguard for my SAR 1 and it's not fitting. I'm trying to make up my mind on sending it back or shaving some plastic off.

 

[MTMilitiaman]

Do you have an Ultimak and it is not fitting because of that or is it just not fitting the rifle?

 

[clange]

As opposed to spending $200+ on a metal tri-rail system, like the one offered by Ultimak, even the TDI is cheap assuming I can make it work with the Ultimak scope rail and it doesn't overheat and melt/burn my hand.

Anything will work with the ultimak I believe. At the most, you may have to make some small clearance cuts for the two U-bolts.

That tri-rail one will suffer from the same problem as the choate. I'm not saying it will just melt after a couple mags, but if you crazy with 3 or 4..

I've had the wood on my SAR smoking pretty good after like 3 mags semi-rapid fire, so i know in that situation, plastic with no heat shield probably wouldnt have worked.

You're planning on using a vertical foregrip of some kind?

 

[MTMilitiaman]

You're planning on using a vertical foregrip of some kind?

No.

If the Kvar one has a heat shield and the TDI one does not, then I will reconsider the Kvar.

 

[garrett1955]

i recently purchased the u.s. made synthetic stock set from k-var. took it out shooting twice now the last time we put a lot of ammo through it. (bumping) and it never melted. also it is the one that's 1.25 in. longer that is the best investment i have made for it. hell for 90 dollars you cant go wrong. good luck.

 

[clange]

No.

Ok, then theres no reason to go with anything other than the k-var part.

If you're ok on US parts you could even get the bulgarian one and save $5.

If you're replacing the whole stock set, the package is $85 for everything. Good stuff. I'm about to buy a set for my SAR-3.

 

[m39fan]

Ultimak stated to me that the TDI forearm will work with their mount. Having heated my AK up completely (I own a couple of drums), I can say that although there's no heat shield I've never had a problem. The handguard body really isn't that close to the barrel as the standoff's are more pronounced than those on other handguards.

JRM5204 - TDI purposely made the handguards oversize so as to minimize movement. Remember these have rails that will be used, stability is important. The easiest way I've found to do it was to let the reciever do the work (done with my WUM and Romy Mil). Put the handguard up to the reciever, smoosh the front plate onto the front edge of the hanguard and carefully tap the plate with a plastic or brass hammer. As you do so, the reciever will shave the forend where it needs to and just enough to fit. Keep tapping it in until the plate will latch down. You will also, per TDI's intructions, have to tap the cleaning rod down in the cleaning rod a time or two to ensure it fits YOUR cleaning rod. If you do these two steps, you'll find you have one of the tightest handguards available with no wiggle, noticibly less rod noise and enough overall stablility to actually use the rails for semi-serious work.

HTH,
Mike

 

[Jrm5204]

m39fan thanks! I can't get the cleaning rod to lock in place but I got the handguard on. The cleaning rod needs to go in maybe another 1/4" but it seems to be hitting the reciever. Now I got a ventilated upper handguard from Copes Dist. that dosen't wanna go on. I guess I'll have a hard time finding someone to thread my barrel so I can put a brake or flash hider on it too.
First I gotta come up with the extra money for theese add on's, then wait for the delivery, then I finaly get them and can't install them, lol.

 

[chevrofreak]

I put a TDI forend on my MAK-90 with the UltiMAK, but I had to notch the forend to get it to clear the bands. You may or may not have to do this, I've seen other guns that didnt need notched for them to go together.

http://files.chevrofreak.com/pictures/Norinco MAK-90 Sporter/TDI/ultimak notching/DSC02656.JPG

It's absolutely rock solid. I had to use a hammer to POUND the forward plate thingy down over the grip.