AK parts kits, which one for me?

[Malice]

I am thinking I want to buy a parts kit now and a reciever later. I have two questions on building an AK.

First, I would like to spend roughly $100 on the kit. I know this can be done, centerfire systems has two Romanian parts kits, as does DPH Arms (the same 2 I think). Centerfire also has a couple similar Yugo ones for about the same price. I am looking to spend about this much, and I wonder if I have other options, and which is the best one? Ie. the best quality for the money.

Second, I have never built any rifle before. Can someone explain it to me as if I were a small child? I mean, I buy the parts kit, and the reciever (which has to come through an FFL), and then its done? I put it all together and Volia? I know I can buy other individual parts to customize the rifle, but is that all there is to it? With these kits I mentioned, could I indeed add folding stocks, Galil furniture, etc?

 

[Commissar Gribb]

I am thinking I want to buy a parts kit now and a reciever later. I have two questions on building an AK.

now's the time to be getting kits- they may not be legal to import soon.

First, I would like to spend roughly $100 on the kit. I know this can be done, centerfire systems has two Romanian parts kits, as does DPH Arms (the same 2 I think). Centerfire also has a couple similar Yugo ones for about the same price. I am looking to spend about this much, and I wonder if I have other options, and which is the best one? Ie. the best quality for the money.

I would go with the romanian ones. Yugo kits are good quality but use different parts than regular AKs. replacement parts are aplenty for romanian AKs.

Second, I have never built any rifle before. Can someone explain it to me as if I were a small child? I mean, I buy the parts kit, and the reciever (which has to come through an FFL), and then its done? I put it all together and Volia? I know I can buy other individual parts to customize the rifle, but is that all there is to it? With these kits I mentioned, could I indeed add folding stocks, Galil furniture, etc?

pretty much! stamped rifles are usually pinned together which is relatively easy to do. if you wanted to get into bending flats you could even make your own receivers.

galils have different shaped parts and either way, it'll never look exactly like a galil just by changing furnture anyhow.


Other than that there are legal considrations such as parts count. You cant have more than a certain number of foreign parts in the rifle.

 

[Malice]

Ok cool. So these can be put together by hand, no tools needed? Other than a screwdriver and hammer or somthing?

So if I get a Romanian kit with a G2 (US made) trigger group, use US mags, and maybe one or 2 other US parts from TAPCO, im legal, as is my understanding.

I guess I need more info on how you actualy put the components together. Especialy the barrel to the reciever. How does it all come together, and how difficult is it?

 

[MAUSER88]

It's more involved than that. You need gauges and you better know what your doing. Check out some build forums. www.gunco.net

 

[Malice]

Yipes! I did some reading. So much for my little idea... sigh.

I guess it is different than buying an already-barrled AR-15 reciever and then just snapping the other parts on. I was forgetting about fixing the AK barrel to the reciever. Do'h...

 

[Commissar Gribb]

don't let that dissuade you. I'm working on a couple rifles right now, myself. just be extra careful before you "test" it.

 

[blfuller]

You have 2 options on the type of receiver you buy. You can buy a flat and bend it yourself and spot weld on the rails etc. OR you can buy a premade receiver from Arsenal USA, currently the best or from Ohio Ordnance, which used to be the best available. If you have limited skills working with metal I would go with the pre made receiver. You would have to fill out the BATFE 4473 yellow form for this as it would be considered a firearm.

Regarding the build you have 2 practical options here also. Typically AK type rifles are riveted together, you can have the parts riveted together by a pro or do it yourself. By riveting you will need hydraulic presses and other rivet tooling. OR you can screw it together with grade 8 cap screws instead of the rivets. This can be done easily without special tools and fixtures, you would need a drill press and the correct size of drills for #8-32 & #10-32 threads. You will also need to have a go-nogo gauge to check headspace. An all matching kit will most likely be ok headspace wise. But if your kits serial numbers do not match on the bolt and the trunnion your headspace may be excessive. If that is the cas you will have to press the barrel out of the trunnion and adjust the headspace. This is where an hydraulic press would come into play.

So depending on your skill level and the condition of your kit it could be easy or more difficult. The right tools can make the job a pleasure and very easy. Not having the tools or the skill may require the assistance of a Pro.

Go HERE for a lot of good information on how to do it.

 

[PAC 762]

http://www.gunco.net/forums/forumdi...1&pp=20&sort=lastpost&order=desc&daysprune=-1

http://www.gunco.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=13

http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=678

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=4

http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=4&f=51

 

[Mr. Hankey]

I'm not crazy about the screwing them together route.

The problem is not the bolt itself, grade 8s are plenty strong.
The problem as I see it is the trunnion.
The trunnion is only .100 thick, where the threads have to be placed.
Meaning when using a 10-32 bolt, under the best possible conditions, you would only have 3.2 threads available.
And since the trunnion holes (4 of the 6 anyway) are counter sunk for the swell neck rivet, you will end up with even less.