Alright, calling you stock finishing experts!

[paducahrider]

mshootnit,
Take note of EVERYTHING dirtyjim said, in both his last two posts.
There isn't anything within them that shouldn't be considered as gospel.
Pay especially close attention to the "TIME" mentioned in the process, as failure to adhere to proper timelines is the underlying cause of poor results (trying to rush nature!). Also notice the "heat" produced while rubbing with the "palm" (I would actually say the "heel" of the palm), as that is a real tip.
Yes, you would be wise to copy some of this stuff, because there are fewer folks around who subscribe to the prescribed actions and are thus willing and able to pass them along to others, like you.
Many posts mention methods which admittedly work, but from my point of view, come under the headings of "shortcuts", which produce quick, but questionably short-lived, results.
The book he recommends is excellent and will contain enough information to keep your mind occupied for decades. I would add Roy E. Dunlap's, "Gunsmithing" as an addition to your shooter's library.
Both these readings will be considered "dated" by many, but the information within them is fundamental, and fundamentals seldom change.
"SLOW DOWN! YOU"LL GET A MORE HARMONIOUS OUTCOME!!"
Thanks for your time.

 

[ol' scratch]

One part beeswax, one part turpentine, one part boiled linseed oil. It worked for me. I have a red hue in my stock. The wax also seems to waterproof the wood.

 

[dirtyjim]

the 1/3rd mix is more for maintaining the finish although some people have used it as the stock finish on military rifles. you can also omit the blo and use it as a furniture polish.

a properly done oil finish is very easy to maintain. just put about a teaspoon of blo in you palm and rub the stock down about once a year.
as far was waterproofing the stock goes unless your hunting in a rain forrest all i would do is put a little johnsons paste floor wax on the inletting and the underside of the barrel & receiver then wipe the outside of the stock down with johnsons paste wax.
johnsons paste wax also protects metal very good too

 

[paducahrider]

DIRTYJIM,
YOU are THE man.
The tips about furniture polish brought back memories of the years I spent as a furniture repairman
Most of the stuff folks put on their good furniture could be replaced by the Johsons paste wax, or the even cheaper beeswax/turpentine mix.
The tip about using it on metal is super also.
I have a cheap($349, brand new) little IGA Stoeger side by side, 28 gauge Uplander shotgun, which I spruced up a bit, some years ago.
There were so many machining marks on the barrels and action that I felt it could be considerably improved. I just felt like there was a nice looking shotgun under all the extra wood and metal on it.
I removed all the blueing by drawfiling and polishing the barrels with hard backed #2500 grit wet or dry, to the point that everyone believes they are chrome or nickle plated.
I reshaped/polished the action to match it to the barrels, created a stippled sighting notch, polished the action release, checkered the tang safety, etched some nice wildlife scenes on the action sides/bottom, and generally smoothed it all out to flow into the stock.
After re-shaping, staining, hand graining and refinishing the stocks, I took it to a shotgun meet and the Stoeger rep swore it wasn't made by Stoeger at all, until I pointed out that the model numbers were still on it.
He said he thought it was a couple thousand dollar Italian or European model.
It really turned out nice, and I left all the metal bright, with no blueing, just because it looked so darned good. I like bling!!
That was in 1997, and all I've done to it to prevent corrosion is to wax it with either the beeswax/turps mix or Johnsons paste wax.
There is not a SPOT of rust on it anywhere, it still shines like a mirror and the wood looks as good as when I finished it.
It sure as heck looks better than it did brand new.
There's more than one way to swing a cat!!!
Thank you DIRTYJIM, for sharing some of your knowledge.
Thanks for your time.

 

[mshootnit]

This thread wound up better than I was hoping thanks the gentlemens' contributions here. I wanted to update by saying that I have halted for now with 6 coats of BLO and 3 sessions with steel wool in between. The finish is even and smooth (and on top of the factory finish) and I have rubbed in 3 coats of Renaissance wax. It has a satin smooth finish that looks great on a military rifle. Now I am sure that it could be better but I am not going to add "gloss" for now I like it as is and feel it is relatively well protected. To add some detail there is still some marks from the factory sanding which did not go down to a fine enough grain to finish completely but again it is a military style rifle so such things are not totally unwanted.

 

[61chalk]

OK, I decided to say something...an no offense, not wanting to rain on the parade here at all. Just adding info. an glad you like the results of BLO, nothing wrong at all with that. BLO was used at the beginning of WWII, because it was cheap an in plenty, however it wasn't long into the war that Tung oil was put to use to replace BLO. BLO is not waterproof, an even a wax coat will let water through. Tung oil does waterproof much better...last year at the Camp Perry Garnd shoots, it got very hot an rained, an it was bad news for many shooters that used BLO. It bled because of the heat an humidity, an the rain swelled the wood so bad accuracy got worse an for some the trigger couldn't even be pulled to fire the weapon. Now many Garand owner's probably won't hunt or be out in the elements....but this is just info I thought I would pass on. I used BLO an did like the results, however because of the above info decided to use tung oil over a nice red stain on a tiger stripe an a dark walnut stain on another. I feel like the bad guy here, but not trying to be. I was glad to find out this info. so thought I would pass it on.....good shooting to you sir!

 

[paducahrider]

Don't feel like the bad guy!

To 61chalk,
You don't need to feel like a bad guy for telling the truth.
The truth is; tung oil does a better job of sealing the wood than linseed oil.
I have been remiss in failing to point out that linseed oil does not actually "waterproof" the wood. No finish really does that, but tung oil comes closer than linseed oil.
As pointed out, tung oil was "discovered" during WWII, but actually, it was first used on Japanese arms, which fell into our troops's hands.
After a short time, it became obvious that something about the captured weaponry was making a lot of guys sick. The first suspect was the wood itself, but research turned up the fact that one in a thousand people were violently allergic to the tung oil finish.
Severe skin rashes, blisters and running sores were the symptoms of the allergy.
Whether or not the culprit within tung oil has been cured by modern chemistry, I can't say.
It's used as a component in a home woodworking line of finishing products(either Forneys or Minwax, if memory serves me, but I haven't checked lately) sold at the BIG BOX home stores.
Compared to linseed oil, it's quicker drying, and that is it's most attractive feature, to many.
As already mentioned, it does a better job of sealing than linseed oil, alone.
Of course, linseed oil works best in conjunction with other materials, and one way of getting the best of both worlds, is to use the tung oil as a sealer, then use the linseed oil as the finish.
Other sealers actually work better than tung oil and are less likely to be brittle and flake, as tung oil is prone to do.
One excellent sealer is spar varnish thinned with a fast solvent such as naptha or lacquer thinner. This soaks deeply into the wood, dries quickly and seals well.
Another wood preparation, prior to finishing, is filling of the pores.
Tung oil works well, as does thickened linseed oil, though taking longer.
One excellent filler is flour-fine ground silica, mixed with spar varnish and thinned with mineral spirits (some add a drying agent, but it's a matter of preference). This fills well but is hard on checkering tools, since the silica is just a form of sand.
Tung oil is not without it's detractions.
It's more expensive, though not as bad as a couple of decades ago.
Due to the quick drying time, it must be worked into the wood rapidly or leaves a cheap looking varnish-like surface.
It also is prone to brittleness and flaking; both are maladies from which many "modern" finishes suffer.
I readily admit to getting old and bein' set in my ways.
I also admit that I really like the look and FEEL of a well-done linseed oil stock, above all others, and since I had an allergy problem, early in my life, I don't desire to introduce a catalyst for another, into my gunstocks, to bedevil me during the later years of my life.
When all is said and done, everyone is free to try what they like, and, I didn't start out being a linseed oil afficianado without trying just about everything else, at some time or another.
The statement; "There's more than one way to swing a cat!!", says it all, and I encourage folks to RESEARCH and try whatever they wish.
After they've done so, if something else suits them, that's ok by me.
That's what makes horse races.
Thanks for your time.

 

[ol' scratch]

OK, I decided to say something...an no offense, not wanting to rain on the parade here at all. Just adding info. an glad you like the results of BLO, nothing wrong at all with that. BLO was used at the beginning of WWII, because it was cheap an in plenty, however it wasn't long into the war that Tung oil was put to use to replace BLO. BLO is not waterproof, an even a wax coat will let water through. Tung oil does waterproof much better...last year at the Camp Perry Garnd shoots, it got very hot an rained, an it was bad news for many shooters that used BLO. It bled because of the heat an humidity, an the rain swelled the wood so bad accuracy got worse an for some the trigger couldn't even be pulled to fire the weapon. Now many Garand owner's probably won't hunt or be out in the elements....but this is just info I thought I would pass on. I used BLO an did like the results, however because of the above info decided to use tung oil over a nice red stain on a tiger stripe an a dark walnut stain on another. I feel like the bad guy here, but not trying to be. I was glad to find out this info. so thought I would pass it on.....good shooting to you sir!

You are right--sort of. You reversed the order. According to what I have read Tung Oil (or China Oil as it was called) was used during the early part of the war. Because you couldn't get it due to supply line issues, the military switched to linseed oil. Linseed oil is made from flax seeds and was avalable domestically. As far as water, I have had my Garand out in the wet. I was not out in a down pour, but the water did bead up. Since you have more experence shooting Perry in the rain than I have, I may switch my stock finishing procedure. Either way, Tung oil (China oil) and Linseed are both correct for the Garand.

 

[61chalk]

According to Fulton Armory, in the begining of WWII linseed oil/China oil (tung oil) were both used, but by end of the war linseed oil was surplanted by Tung oil. After that only refinished stocks had linseed oil applied.....I had used Formey's Tung oil with Low gloss finish, which has a little varnish in it, an was pleased with results. I have just bought a pint of Pure Tung oil from The Real Milk Paint Co. for 10.00 plus shipping...which was 10.00....I tried it on a piece of walnut using their 50/50 tung oil an mineral spirts, penetrates an dries nice....the next Garand will be tested for comparison, it should have a dull matte finish, more traditional with Garands...Never have shot at Perry, just info. recieved by those that were there last year.

 

[PzGren]

FWIW, the German Wehrmacht used BLO during WWII and there are hardly harsher conditions imagineable than at the Eastern front.

 

[madcratebuilder]

As pointed out, tung oil was "discovered" during WWII, but actually, it was first used on Japanese arms, which fell into our troops's hands.

Pure tung oil is also sometimes called "China wood oil". It is believed to have originated long ago in China and appears in the writings of Confucius from about 400 B.C.

Many of the Tung oil products on the market today have added varnishes and driers and give a higher gloss than PURE Tung oil.

Current BLO has added petroleum products and driers and is a higher gloss than BLO of war time production. If you want to duplicate the BLO finish of WWII vintage rifles look for what is currently marketed as purified linseed oil(PLO).