I've cleaned military finish weapons for years simply by using hot water and a toothbrush or other small bristle brush...sometimes with whatever bar soap happened to be handy. This includes M16s, M4A1s, M2s, MP5s, 1911s, AK-47s, G-3s, FALs, BHPs, Glocks, SAWs, M9s, M240s, M60s, P-38s, Makarovs, Mortars, M203s, shotguns, M14s, etc.
In olden days, Basic Trainees in field locations routinely cleaned M16s by dipping them into successively cleaner 55 gallon drums or trash cans full of hot water (each container heated by a multi-fuel immersion heater):
It's always been pretty common technique in military circles.
No Harm. No Foul. Literally.
About the only weapon types that I won't use that process on are revolvers or weapons with fine finishes (polished bluing or nickel plate), because I don't feel like removing side plates, encouraging rust on a nice finish, or risking the loss of small lock work parts in a sink or shower. It's also hard to ensure complete dry out of the inside of a revolver frame unless you actually detail strip the action.
For really heavy residue buildup, I've found that a good soaking with solvent (letting all parts sit for a few minutes) helps to break up the crud and carbon prior to immersing a weapon into a steady stream of very hot water. When I say hot water, I simply mean as hot as you can stand on your bare hands; no need for boiling water.
A typical auto parts solvent cleaning station is wonderful (if you have the place to keep one). With one of those, you don't need water...just a brush to scrub the weapon clean.
I've cleaned a well fired 1911 using a rain puddle, toothbrush, and a dry rag while in the field.
After they dry, just wipe down any previously solvent (or water) soaked weapon with plenty of oil. They'll do just fine. It's not rocket science.
Sam1911: Running at least a practice session after a deep cleaning gives me the confidence that everything went back together just right and I haven't mucked up the gun somehow.
Wise words and dead on correct.
A combat truism regarding rehearsal test fires before a mission: Once your weapon has been fired to satisfaction (tested through function check and live fire Immediate Action Drills), you DO NOT disassemble and clean it. It worked the last time you touched the trigger, but you have no guarantee that it will do so after you take it apart, clean it, and reassemble it. At most, you run an oiled patch down the bore and add a few drops of lube to the action.
Weapons can sit dirty and functional
for years as long as they are not exposed to excessive humidity, condensation, or corrosive factory ammo (or black powder loads).
) You don't mess with what's working...
