Alumahyde II for Makarov

Mr. Mosin

Jun 26, 2019
Unsure where this needs to be- mod, move as necessary please.

Have a Makarov (PM) in the white which I stripped the bluing off of and forgot to order a parkerizing kit for- I changed my mind, and have settled on Alumahyde II instead. Any advice on application ?

Do I need to plug the firing pin channel, barrel, etc ? Can I apply it over the entirety of the frame/slide, including rails and interior ?
I used AHII on 2 of my Romanian G AKM Builds. I really don't think I would use it on a handgun.

I stripped everything off of the rifles, hung them from wire coat hangers, and sprayed everything including the rails but not the bolts or internals. I plugged the barrel on both ends.
AHII sprays better warm - so do it outside in the sun or in a hot garage. Don't even try to do it in a cold basement, you will get a crinkle finish.

You can speed up the curing time by heating the coated gun in your oven.

AHII will make rails tighter - my non coated bolts ride tighter on the receiver rails. I've never tried it on a pistol but I would think it may make the slide too tight.

Tips - degrease everthing. Remove everything from the slide and frame - completely disassemble both. I would tape over the rails.
Give it a week or 2 before trying to re-coat or heat it in your oven, let it dry, and then re-coat.
As with any painting. PREP work is most important. I have used it on several projects and hand tools. It is great stuff but follow instructions. It really is just a good epoxy paint.
I doubt it will get in the firing pin channel. Put a tiny piece of tape over it if needed. No need to get any in the barrel either, Give it time to cure!

De grease with Chlorinated Brak Kleen (TCE) which Brownells sells also.

It'll work fine. Most sprays give more shine when shot closer, and more matte when you spread out the distance.
It can tighten up slide/frame rails. If that's a good thing, depends on how sloppy they are now.

1000% on prep. I like soapy hot water, with a toothbrush, in the conservatory. Gloves after that! Heat gun,
then normal brake cleaner outside, and heat gunned again.

Wire hangers--plan how you'll move the item for spraying and make sure your hanger won't let go when
you tilt and turn the item.
The ideal base for gun coatings is to bead blast to give the coating a "tooth" to bond to after a through degreasing.
Cerakote even recommends what blaster media to use to prevent the coating "bridging" over the microscopic pits.

Once blasted, bake in an oven for 30 minutes and inspect for any oil seeping out of crevices. If you see any, blast and bake again until no visible oil, then spray on the coating.

Check Cerakote's web site for videos and instructions. Those work just as well on other coatings like Aluma-Hyde.
Prep and application is everything. Gun coatings fail because of improper prep or application, and the coating gets blamed.
Bead blasting doesn’t leave the necessary profile for the coating to adhere to. Some type of sharp grit must be used. I use fine sand (in a negative pressure cabinet) before any coating. Ground glass, Black Beauty, or aluminum oxide can be used but sand is much cheaper.