Aluminum frame 1911 wear

[rampantandroid]

Hi all,

I've got a Dan Wesson CCO with an aluminum frame, and I'm seeing some wear and wanted some people to chime in on it.

The CCO has a feed ramp on the barrel, but there is a small section of the frame below the feed ramp that is showing wear:
http://rampantandroid.com/images/Guns/1911cco/IMG_1291.png

In addition to some damage where the guide rod will hit the frame:
http://rampantandroid.com/images/Guns/1911cco/IMG_1292.png

The finish is obviously gone, and I'm unsure if that's all (unsure if the only damage is the coating wearing off) - is this normal? The gun has less than 500 rounds through it.

How many rounds will a Dan Wesson CCO last for?

Thanks!

 

[Micro]

I suspect it will wear to a point then stop. I also suspect its just the coloring coming off, but that the anodizing is still intact. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[rampantandroid]

And what about how many rounds this gun will survive?

 

[mnrivrat]

It's realy hard to guess how long the gun will last. Some depends on the loads you are using.
With the alloy frame I would make sure the recoil spring is matched to your loads well enough to avoid slamming.
You might also benifit in the long run by installing a guide rod buffer - couldn't hurt as far as I know a lot of folks use the buffers.

 

[Drail]

One problem with an alloy frame pistol is "some" magazines use a steel follower that can tilt forward enough to impact the feed ramp after the last round is chambered. (Chip McCormicks for example) Check your magazines in the frame with the slide removed and see how much play the follower has. Just having bullet noses hit the feed ramp should have little effect on wear. I do recommend using a mag with a polymer follower like the Wilson 47 on an aluminum gun.

 

[HisSoldier]

Manufacturers who make business machines, and other types of machinery for aircraft for DOD acceptance, anywhere sliding actions occur repetitively, will isolate aluminum alloys from such sliding contact by installing wear strips of hardened steel, bronze or by other methods. Screw holes will have steel inserts installed, and anywhere a pin revolves the aluminum is isolated with bushings of steel, bronze or antifriction bearings (rolling contact bearings).

If pressure lubricant is used aluminum alloys will run at high speeds for long periods, witness the camshafts in Japanese cars for an example. I've never seen a 1911 with a pressure lube system.

I really don't believe that JMB would have approved, even with the alloys available in his time. He would have redesigned the frames with larger wear areas, and allowance for the inherent strength disadvantages of aluminum alloys.

Realistically, if a weapon fails at 20K rounds, and the owner will never shoot 10K rounds, it's moot, beyond an obsession like my own, which precludes substitution of what I consider to be inferior materials. I recognize that most people don't care if their gun will go 50K rounds or not.

So, then, the advantages? obviously it's weight. The Colt Commander with "alloy" frame came out in response to a government requirement for a lighter 1911 type handgun in 1949. Other than weight, all that's left is the non rusting nature of the alloys, though of course until they design an alloy that will withstand the pressures and wear of firing there will likely be steel involved to rust.

 

[cyclopsshooter]

I aim to wear one out. It's a tool, not a toy. No promises as to how long it will take.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=620192&page=6

 

[royal barnes]

I have a Colt LW Government Model with over 8000 rounds through it. Most of the finish is worn off the rails but there is no other indication of wear except from a holster and my hands. I'm 67 years old and don't anticipate wearing it out.

 

[Rock185]

Ramp, I have owned multiple Colts, S&Ws, SIGs, etc with the alloy frames. All showed wear similar to the photos of your gun wherever steel contacts the anodized aluminum alloy. Of the alloy framed guns I have owned, SIGS seemed to display the least wear to the anodized surface. The anodized surface on my S&W and Colts with alloy frames wore through quickly where steel rubbed against, or impacted, the aluminum frame. I have a finely fitted alloy framed pistol that displayed no detectable slide to frame play when new. After moderate use, the frame rail anodizing wore enough to allow slight play between the side and frame. Certainly not loose or sloppy, but definitely not like new. My steel framed guns seem only to get smoother with use, but not looser.


I never had a S&W or Sig alloy frame crack myself but did see two co-worker's near new SIG P-226 9MMs crack horizontally in the frame rail area. SIG replaced both guns. My alloy Colt Commander cracked at the left side dust cover after moderate use, adjacent to where the slide impacts the frame with each round fired. I stop-drilled the crack and the Commander is still in use.


I still own and carry alloy framed guns, due to the light weight, but do not consider them to be anywhere near as durable as steel framed pistols. Over the years, my alloy guns were all purchased with carry in mind, never with the thought that they would be shot extensively recreationally or in competition, etc. I'd have to agree with Col. Cooper who said something like; alloy framed guns are best carried a lot and shot a little...

 

[skt239]

And what about how many rounds this gun will survive?

DW's are some of the finest production 1911's out there. Aside from springs and other small parts, you'll wear out far before the gun does.

 

[Frankl03]

I had a Kimber with an alloy frame and just like Drail said its recommended to use mags with a plastic follower. The Wilson 47ds are great mags! You can even buy plastic followers to convert the mags you are using now.

 

[DBR]

I have a Kimber Gen 1 CDP alloy frame 4" barrel with a couple of thousand rds thru it. So far it is holding up well with no obvious wear to the frame. IRRC Kimber did a 25K round test of these frames with no failure. Kimber uses 7075 T6 Aluminum for their frames. It is about 40% stronger than the more common 6061 T6 used by most makers.

I use AeroShell 22 synthetic aircraft grease that is designed for dissimilar metals on the frame rails . This won't help cracking but it will help wear.

 

[Skylerbone]

EGW makes a steel insert once the original wears to the point of needing attention. Use a shok-buff in conjunction with the correct spring weight. If it gets chewed up you need a heavier spring.