Annealing Really Worth It

[roc1]

By the title I am thinking about getting automated machine for annealing my rifle brass done the socket torch method doesn’t seem consistent enough. Bench rest shooters I shoot with generally say no they don’t do it at all just go smaller bushing till necks split get new brass. Looks like have to do lots brass to really be worth investing 200-300 dollars or more.
I am kinda torn because reloading isn’t all bout saving money but more about quality to me. I know neck tension changes I can feel it on my brass just wanted input what lot of you do. If I only FL sized instead of FL bushing sized probably wouldn’t notice differences
Thanks
Roc1

 

[Walkalong]

When I shot Benchrest we all had tight necked chambers and turned necks to fit them. There was usually .005 to .001 clearance around the neck of a loaded round (Depended on who it was and how close they liked to go), plus we were running very light neck tension, so I never had to go to a tighter neck bushing even though I (And 99% of others) didn't anneal. Annealing got popular later on. My .308 in a standard bolt gun? Yes, after the second or third firing I would need a tighter bushing or annealing.

Annealing done well either way you do it is sufficient. The automated ones just make it easier and faster. Thinking of getting one myself.

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

I'm satisfied with the socket and torch method for the small amount of annealing I do.
If I could find a good automated annealing machine for just $200-$300 I'd buy it.

 

[Grumulkin]

When I bought my Sassy Brass annealer it was a little over $300; it's now $495 and I wouldn't have paid that for it.

I don't anneal brass to prolong case life. The only time I ever had problems with case necks splitting was years ago with some nickel plated 222 Remington brass. Almost all other brass I've discarded has been for reasons other than split case necks. That said, I believe annealing does increase consistency between different brands of brass and improves accuracy so I think it's worth it.

 

[Blue68f100]

I have one of the annealing machines that gets quite a bit of use. I anneal as part of my std brass prep. What it does more than any thing else is keep every thing consistent on neck tension. It also prevents the brass from splitting out too. I use the FL Bushing dies and have never needed to adj the die since. If your dealing with mixed mfg you are probably have to adj your die on a regular basis. I use shims under all my sizing dies so if I need to tweak a die 0.001" or more all I do is remove one of the shims. But I have not had to do this since I started annealing and the sizing process is easier not fighting hard brass. I have some 223 brass that has over 10 cycles on it and still going. The only way I'm going to fail brass is with primer pockets getting too loose. I have my neighbors bring there brass to me to anneal also. They were all having problems with necks splitting out as early as 1 reload on some of the commercial brass. This has put a end to that, no more splitting since I started doing it for them.

 

[jmorris]

It can be but you can also make things worse.

As you noted its a lot easier to get consistant results with a machine.

 

[Varminterror]

A guy shouldn't struggle to get 223rem brass over 20 loadings.

If you're picking up range brass for free or cheap, and not expecting supreme precision, or if you're running small batches of brass where replacing the entire set won't set you back much, and your idea of "brass prep" begins and ends with sizing and trimming, then annealing probably never will make sense for you. Alternatively, if you have a set of 1000 practice brass and 500 match brass for 2 day PRS-type events, Lapua premium blend, which you spent time forming, sizing, neck turning, pocket uniforming, then protecting your investment and annealing is well worth the cost.

Automated "factory" machines are one thing, following online designs to build your own is another thing, paying some college kid $50 to follow online plans is another, and doing it the "cheap and takes forever" way is yet another... Lots of options. I tipped over thousands on thousands of pieces of brass in a pan of water before I upgraded. For me, efficiency in brass processing is best found by swapping manual operations for automation, and annealing is an operation where automation saves a lot of time.

 

[salpal48]

I purchased a Sagebrush machine. Great machine simple and easy. i have annealed 577 NE 3" down to 32/20 wcf.

 

[blue32]

I did it by hand for a while for neck sized cases but after not losing any non-annealed necks at the 15th loading I stopped. I wish there was a way to tighten primer pockets.

 

[Nature Boy]

For me the reason to do it is to keep a consistent neck tension, therefore, I do it after every firing.

It’s only worth it for two reasons.

1) I have the accuracy sickness

2) I bought an Annealeeze that makes it easy

Otherwise I wouldn't be doing it

 

[Walkalong]

For me the reason to do it is to keep a consistent neck tension

Exactly.

 

[tcoz]

I'm satisfied with the socket and torch method for the small amount of annealing I do.
If I could find a good automated annealing machine for just $200-$300 I'd buy it.

Annealeez is just under $300 and to me it’s well worth it. I bought it to coax as much life as possible out of Lapua brass but consistent neck tension is why I continue doing it.

 

[roc1]

Thanks guys for good input what I knew just needed reinforcement. My wife ordered me a Annealeez for Christmas so should be good to go

 

[Toprudder]

Thanks guys for good input what I knew just needed reinforcement. My wife ordered me a Annealeez for Christmas so should be good to go

She is a keeper!

 

[Offfhand]

An old and wise saying in the reloading field is that more brass cases have been ruined than saved by amateur attempts at annealing. I expect that is now more true than ever.

 

[Captcurt]

I guess if you shot thousands of rounds a year or got serious with benchrest or long range shooting it could be beneficial, but for the average Joe, no. I have rolled my own ammo since the 70's and the only time that I have annealed anything was when making 308 Norma brass out of 300 H&H. Granted, I only shoot a few thousand rounds of centerfire rifle or handgun ammo a year, but that is more than the average shooter.

 

[roc1]

I loaded old ways for years just enjoying more precise loading making better more accurate ammo.
My wife is keeper had her since she was 18 over 40 plus years

 

[roc1]

Thanks for all help

 

[RainDodger]

I have this one and I like it.
http://www.mikesreloadingbench.com/index.html

 

[redbullitt]

It will be worth it for any kind of precision shooting, or it will help prolong case life with calibers that are hard on brass. It really extended the life of my .243 win cases AND helped keep the necks consistent.

You can do it the simple ways or the fancy ways. If you are set up properly they both will work just fine!

That is an awesome gift, very nice!

 

[Sunray]

Wouldn't spend $200 or $300 on something that doesn't get done until/unless a case mouth cracks. Annealing is not an every time thing. A $15 propane torch kit and an AL foil pan for a buck works as well.

 

[Varminterror]

Two truths:

1) Fireforming bears consequences - you spend component costs AND barrel life just to get brass ready, and it puts a lot of work hardening stress on the brass. So you lose money, brass life, and barrel life. When brass splits and you're forced to replace it, you're stuck "wasting" components, time, energy, and barrel life. Shooting a fireformed cartridge without annealing is a complete WOFTAM.

2) The time to anneal is before you get splits. If you're annealing once a handful from a batch have split, you're too late. You'll get a couple extra firings on some of the brass by annealing, but you've already passed a point of inconsistent neck tension, and have already shortened your overall brass life. For 7mm rem mag and 7-300, I anneal every loading, or every other at most. For 223rem, typically I'm every 3rd-4th loading on a batch. I lose brass in the grass, or because of loosened pockets - NOT because of split shoulders or necks.