anyone have any problems with S&W's internal locks?

[SkaerE]

other than they make you ill to look at

seriously though, i havent heard of any problems with them locking the gun up accidentally, but i'm quite paranoid about it.

problem is, i want a new smith, and all the new ones have them. so i'm kinda stuck.

so, i assume its a robust trouble free system



any way to take it apart and remove the lock internals? (i remember someone posted how to do it to a Taurus internal lock over on the firing line one time... anyone done it to a smith?)

thanks

 

[russlate]

ABOMINATION!!!

Smith and Wesson must DIE!

I'm off now to sit and fondle blue steel, walnut, and gunleather until I stop frothing at the mouth. Medication helps also.

Mike Irwin, where are you? I need someone to talk me down....

 

[JimC]

No, because I refuse to buy ANY new firearm with them installed.

 

[dmftoy1]

I've got one on my Model 500 . . .I've never "engaged" it, but it hasn't caused me a problem. Only 150 rounds through it so far though.

Have a good one,
Dave

 

[SnWnMe]

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156866

 

[Onmilo]

Locks are becoming standard accessory on all handguns.
Thanks to Legislation they are going to be there like them or not.
Good internal locks cause no problems.
S&W uses one of the best designs available.

 

[SkaerE]

i know more and more manufacturers are building them in, all new HK's have them, (at least mine did when i bought it 4 yrs ago) Springfield 1911s have them (although they are easy to change out) Taurus, Smith, Remington, and a couple others im sure.

each one (cept the HK - prolly cause i didnt look) has a way to circumvent the safety.

i'd like to know how to on the Smith - and no, im not at all worried about any liability issues.

 

[44Caliber]

Internal Locks

I shoot 44 magnum Model 629 Classic Dx every week,
I carry 357 640
I have had no problem with locking mechanism.
44caliber

 

[Tony Mig]

I've got a 4" 686 with at least 3,000 rounds through it, and not one problem.
I also have a 6" 686, and a 6" 617 with locks, and no problems with those either.

3 new model S&W wheel guns with locks, and not one issue. If I had the choice, I would have bought them without locks, but that choice is no longer ours to make. If you hate internal gun locks, don't blame S&W....(or any other gun maker)....the blame goes to lawyers, and liberal politicians for this situation. They hold 100% of the responsibility for this, as I doubt very much that S&W wanted the headache of designing and installing locks on their firearms. Just as I doubt very much Ruger likes stamping that God awful paraghaph on the side of their barrels.

 

[surfinUSA]

Both my 642 and my three inch 629 have them. They work fine. I leave then alone and have had no problems. The 629 can be a real bastard as far as recoil with full house loads goes but the lock has never moved. Personally, I think alot of people are making alot more of this issue than is warranted. If you don't like the lock don't use it.

This isn't really a lawyer issue either. Alot of anti gunners forced this type of thing on gunmakers because some folks just don't secure their weapons properly, don't train their kids, etc. I never worry about my son and weapons, but I worry alot about his friends and weapons, especially in someone else's home.

 

[SnWnMe]

SkaerE, if you know how to remove your grips, sideplate and cylinder, here's how you get at that lock

For K, L and N

Back the little screw in the front strap out all the way. The mainspring (leaf) will go slack. Note how it goes back in. Draw pictures if necessary. Now shake or lift it out. The cylinder latch (which is now in the forward postion because the cylinder is not there) needs to be pushed back to the locked position, because you need to cock the hammer. After you cock the hammer, pull the trigger and let the hammer go forward just enough to clear. Lift the hammer out (you probably need to wiggle it). Removing the hammer reveals:

"The Lock"

A coil spring, a plunger, a cam piece/key piece, a flag piece with a tiny projection that rides in a groove on the hammer's left side and a flat spring behind the flag piece. The tiny projection is what actually locks the gun.

If you study it well you can tell that nowhere does the lock touch the works except in that little groove on the hammer's side.

I've got two minds about this thing.

a) Grind down the projection on the flag piece (can you hear my Dremel? Whiiiiiirrr! ) or
b) Remove the lock. But outside of prying it off I really don't know how to do it. I think it starts with releasing the coil spring
c) Just leave it the heck alone (okay so I have three minds about it)

 

[SkaerE]

hmmm, thanks man!

unfortunetly she's a concealed hammer J frame

 

[SnWnMe]

Okay, well, since I wanna slick up my j frame anyways, I'll get back with you on that after this weekend coming up

Actually, it's even easy on a J too. The hammer spring is a coil and there is a hole in the strut to capture the spring with a paper clip. Remove the spring and remove the hammer

 

[ruger357]

Other than being ugly, no problems at all.

 

[mhdishere]

I have never seen one of these locks on a S&W, are they really that ugly?

I have two revolvers (a 617 .22 and 686 .357) and would love to add a 625 in .45 ACP so I could shoot an entire bullseye match with revolvers. Can someone post a pic of a revolver with a lock showing? Perhaps I should just look for an older 625 (cheaper too).

 

[SnWnMe]

MHD is Here

Here's a pic of the lock. Just above the cylinder release on the gun on the right. I don't think it detracts from the appearance. But I understand if some folks don't like the principle.