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Anyone have data for win 296 behind a 110 grn bullet?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Hairballusmaximus, Jan 15, 2009.

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  1. Hairballusmaximus

    Hairballusmaximus Member

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    Anyone have data for win 296 behind a 110 grn bullet for .357 mag?

    I have done a bunch of searches and checked all my manuals and magazines and any other publication that has reloading in it and I absolutely cannot find any data for 110 grn bullets using win 296 or H110.

    I have some so I would like to use it. I am currently taking apart 300 .357 mag rounds due to Blue Dot high pressure even though its the posted starting load. Minor flow of brass and primer and having to use a punch to remove the empty casings told me not to try to shoot the rest.

    I do know of the Blue Dot warning, about being no longer suitable for 110/125 grn projectiles, but, at the time I loaded them I did not.

    Any help would be great.

    Hairball

    If anyone knows how to edit the title let me know I know I specify .357 mag in thread but I managed to leave it out of the title and cant edit it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2009
  2. ReloaderFred

    ReloaderFred Member

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    Winchester 296 and Hodgdon H-110 are slow powders and only do well with heavy bullets and tight crimps in .357 Magnum. I doubt you'll find any data for the 110 grain bullets with either of them, since that's not it's purpose. Even if you did find some limited data, I doubt it would be satisfactory.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
     
  3. Runningman

    Runningman Member

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    That is because 296 or H110 is not recommended for use with 110 gr bullets in the 357 Mag.
     
  4. mavracer

    mavracer Member

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  5. FM12

    FM12 Member

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    When you go to shoot your light bullets powered by 296, take a good wooden dowel and hammer to drive out any squibs you might get. The reason there is no data is because the combo does nor work.
     
  6. Hairballusmaximus

    Hairballusmaximus Member

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    Thanx mavracer, I.ll try a few and see how they work.

    Runningman and Reloaderfred, I appreciate the heads up, and I will not load up a bunch, I'll only try a few and go from there.

    Thanx,

    Hairball
     
  7. ArchAngelCD

    ArchAngelCD Member

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    When you edit if you go to use the "Go Advanced" button you can edit the title.
     
  8. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Hodgdon does list 296/H110 on it's website, and in it's 2009 reloading manual with a 110 gr XTP in .357 Mag.

    SO, it must not be all that dangerous.

    Starting load is 22.0 for 1,992 FPS @ 32,400 CUP.
    Max load is 23.0 grains for 2,078 FPS @ 37,200 CUP.

    Ought to be a fire breather for sure, but I doubt any of them are going to get stuck in the barrel!

    rc
     
  9. Hairballusmaximus

    Hairballusmaximus Member

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    Thanx Archangel, I took care of the title.

    Rcmodel, got the website in my faves list now.

    Hairball
     
  10. tube_ee

    tube_ee Member

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    23 grains is a showstopper,

    especially at an indoor range!!

    2-3 foot jets of fire out the end of the barrel, a 1-1.5 foot ring of fire around the gun, and it'll blow your hair off your forehead.

    22 grains, the starting load for 110s, is the max for 125s, so if you've got both, that might be a good way to set up.

    It's also the first time I've felt anything like "recoil" from my Marlin. I'd love to see what they chrono'd out of the carbine... I bet the 125 JSP would be a dandy coyote load.

    --Shannon
     
  11. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Hodgdon says 22.0 H110 = 2,291 FPS out of an 18.5" carbine.

    23.0 = 2,398.

    rc
     
  12. nascarkent

    nascarkent Member

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    Anyone ever load H 110 for a 357 revolver,It,s a beretta stampede. With a 158 grain bullet? I have a pound of H110. speer # 11 start load 15.8 gn
    Max load 17.8
    The start load seems high to me, And you cant reduce any more than 3%
    I 'm not getting a warm fuzzy feeling about this load. It kinda scares me.
    What say you? Thanks Kent :uhoh:
     
  13. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    Not to mention the wear on the top strap, all of which is why I am not interested in loading 110, even 125 Gr bullets hot with H100/W296, but y'all knock yourselves out. :)
     
  14. mavracer

    mavracer Member

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    H110 is not for the meek you don't want to reduce it more bad things happen.If you want maximum effort loads its great. especially with heavy bullets.just use a heavy crimp and stay near max loads.
    I only shoot them in Rugers :neener:
     
  15. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    You need to buy a new loading manual there!

    Hodgdon lists 17.0 max with a 158 JHP. 15.7 Max with a 155 lead bullet.

    rc
     
  16. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    which are not immune. :)
     
  17. 41 Mag

    41 Mag Member

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    I use 296 almost exclusively in most of my revolvers. I have checked the top strap for years looking for signs of powder or flame cutting and not noticed anything as of yet. I couldn't even begin to count the rounds down range in many weights and powder loads.

    Everything said about fireballs with the light bullets is correct. Even with some of the heavies it gets down right entertaining. I don't quite push the envelope like I used to much anymore. I simply grab a bigger caliber. Even so, I have tried most if not all of the bullet weights in several calibers using 296 and have gotten great accuracy and dependable loads from most all of them, not to mention some impressive velocities. Just respect the loads and your handgun and you will be fine. Remember Colts, and Smith's aren't up to snuff with a lot of top end loads. ANY sign of sticky cases in the cylinders or flattened primers is too much. The only revolver I shoot on a regular basis that isn't a Ruger is a Tarus Raging Bull and so far it has held up to some pretty stiff loads. I would not even consider loading some of the stuff I have shot in my Rugers in any other make revolver.

    nascarkent,

    I load the 158's using 16.0grs of 296 all the time. That is my standard load for one of my GP-100's. It shoots fine out of a friends S&W as well. Very accurate. One thing to remember is you only need enough crimp to keep the bullets in place not enough to swedge the sides of the jacket. I only use enough to actually roll into the crimp grove. Too much crimp and you will get lousy accuracy. Use a good primer like Win WSP's and it will all light off just fine.
     
  18. Hairballusmaximus

    Hairballusmaximus Member

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    I have first hand experience with flame cutting the top strap. My 1st .357 was a S&W model 19, and its top strap was about 1/2 as thick as my GP100 is. I managed to cut 1/2 way through the top strap with about 10,000 max and near max mag loads.

    Needless to say, I dont shoot many full house loads anymore. Not due to the flame cutting but I guess I grew out of it and just prefer light 38 spl target loads with the occasional mag load.

    The mags are still fun once in a while though.
     
  19. 41 Mag

    41 Mag Member

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    Hairball,

    I agree that it does indeed happen and have seen it mostly on blued steel revolvers. The only one I ever owned in a magnum that was blued was a Blackhawk in 41mag. I ran it with top end loads using the 170gr bullets and 2400 or 110. I had more issues with the cylinder pin locking screw than I care to remember, which resulted in a couple of lost pins while out hunting. Pretty much sucked to draw it from the holster and have the cylinder fall out on the ground.

    Other than that my GP's and RH's for all practical purposes still remian in great shape.
     
  20. Hairballusmaximus

    Hairballusmaximus Member

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    Wonder if the finish or type of steel makes a diff? My model 19 was also blued, but my GP100 is stainless. No signs of any wear or tear as of yet on the GP100.

    The only screw thats messing with me I ended up using fingernail polish on to lock it was on my Redhawk .44mag. I dunno what its called or what it does, but its a small allen head type set screw that goes into the side of revolver frame just behing the cylinder in the detent or dent or whatever( dont quite know how to describe it)
     
  21. mavracer

    mavracer Member

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    most of the difference is IMHO the difference in size.the top strap is quite a bit further from the cylinder bore.
     
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