apartment defense

Status
Not open for further replies.

horsemen61

Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2011
Messages
6,759
OK guys here is the situation I live in an apartment. The town I live in is not a bad one nor is the area that I live in. The thing is some nights I work late and the better half is alone what r some things I can do to make it safer for her when I aint there/make it more safe in general.

Here are some non options :banghead: 1. A dog/ dogs
2. Reinforcing the doors/ frames
3. Changing the locks/Adding locks

Any Ideas :)
 
1) good on you not viewing dogs as an alarm system and not much more (I am sure most people giving the dog=alarm advice are dog lovers, but the majority of dog owners suck, so I don't like to recommend getting a dog to people :mad:)

2)
018c8045-2a40-403f-b055-af9244f1e35a_300.jpg

(I have one - much better than nothing)

3) Let the apartment office know you have an alarm, and to notify you before sending anyone for maintenance. This has the added effect of "notifying" any relatives of criminals etc that your residence might be better avoided.
 
Can you give a product name for that bar?

I was looking at getting a wedge alarm for my condo. Seems simple enough and it'll do the job I need for cheap.

Personally, I think dogs are all well and dandy, but with how my old dog growled at squirrels and racoons, I don't think I would even know if an actual person was coming to the house.
 
horsemen61,,,,there are no "good" towns/neighborhoods,,,,some may have less crime than others, but remember,,,,anyplace, anytime.
 
A 18.5" barrel shotgun with birdshot never hurts either. I have a mossberg maverick 88 shotgun with a collapsible M4 stock on it and its perfect for my girlfriend and I to use. Plus, I have 2 rescued dogs that will notify me of anybody walking past our door much less anyone just walking up the stairwell period lol.
 
Motion activated lights. Also ensure your buildings exterior lighting or hallway lighting are working.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 
horsemen61, that door bar is a good start. also, a piece of 2x4 inserted into any window or sliding patio/ balcony door also works well. it doesn't keep anyone from SMASHING in, but it keeps them from SNEAKING in. it isn't a 'modification', and it's easily removed by occupants or fire crews. a motion sensitive alarm, even just the kind that hangs on a doorknob, helps too. your neighbors up and down, side to side knowing that you have an alarm - a LOUD one, b/c they've heard it, can't hurt either... word of mouth spreads.
TALK to your landlord about other security enhancements. don't assume they won't let you; a reasonable landlord might easily be persuaded to allow alarms or extra locks/ security mods, especially if they're done at your expense and will remain part of the property - an 'enhancement', an additional 'selling point' for him - when you vacate.
 
There are alarm devices that make a sound when someone puts their hand on the doorknob (outside in the hallway). I used to have this stuff on my hotel room door when I had to travel for business. You hang it on your doorknob inside. Doesn't work all the time (e.g., if the bad guy uses gloves). I guess it works like those sensors on the elevators when you touch the buttons.

You can think about making the bedroom more secure, like a sort of panic room, and have ways of barricading the bedroom door (like with the device mentioned above) and having a working phone (cell phone always on hand? how about a landline in the bedroom?) and possibly firearms, etc. in the bedroom.

An escape plan may also be considered, such as a rope ladder from the bedroom out to the street? I am just thinking out of the box.

It might not just be bad guys, your significant other may have to escape from fire as well (from the hallway), so these are some ideas.

Don't forget the hearing protection if she has to shoot at the bad guys.

A friend of mine installed video cameras that he can monitor with his smartphone when he is at work (pointed at the front door, entrance area, etc.) but that just means he can hurry home and/or call 911 when his wife can't (and only if he is watching the video AND if the internet connection is working).
 
I would have a stout door and a way to easily determine who's on the other side of said door. I was an apartment dweller well into my 30's. In my experience, most trouble in apartments is of the domestic variety. Unless the apartment is on the ground floor, there is only one way to enter. That entrance should be very resistant to unwanted entry. There is no substitute for "safe thinking".

I have lived in several multi-family dwellings. In my experience, everybody knows each other or of each other. The chance of burglary is not as great because no one can really depend on uninterrupted clandestine activity. Someone is always walking around at an apartment complex.

Of course, a 12 gauge is always nice to have as well.
 
Many years ago, I was in a similar situation. So, I came up with a few ideas.

First, most apartments won't let you change locks, much less exterior doors. Windows are also pretty much a non starter, as is any sort of exterior shutter or bars. However, you may have more lattitude with the interior.

Pick a room that has limited access, and the best cover available. Note, I didn't say concealment, I said cover. For most apartments the only thing that will stop a bullet is (if you have a cast iron one) the bathtub. And bathrooms usually only have one door. The widows are usually small and frosted if they exist.

Now harden the room. It may be possible to swap the existing door (usually hollow core) with a solid door and keep the same frame. This is important get some large long screws and secure the frame to the studs. It can still be kicked in, but it's going to take time, and make noise. One good thing about apartments is the same thing that's bad. Neighbors can usually hear what's going on next door.

Install a good deadbolt on the door, and install bars at the top and botton that can be inserted into corresponding holes in the floor and door frame. This emiliminates having only a single point that resisting the movement of the door on the lock side, and you will obviously have good hinges on the other.

Depending on the window, install a lock that's more secure than the typical flimsy ones on most. On the inside of the window, install some sort of film that will prevent the window from shattering someone tries to break it. They may still be able to break out the entire pane of glass, but again, time and noise are your friend.

Now back when I was young, cell phones didn't exist, so I had a separate phone line installed in the bathroom. That way picking up the receiver in another room didn't prevent calls frome being made. Today, keep a cell phone and charger (and the phone charged) in the bathroom. So we have room that will resist entry for a bit. Breaking in will make enough noise to bother the neighbors, and your wife can dial 911.

But, stuff happens. So, she should be in that tub, armed with a repeating short barreled shotgun. Because it is an apartment, the previously mentioned bird shot (I recommend number 4, as it's a good compromise between penetration of an unprotected target, and still will loose most of it's velocity going thru an exterior wall, or an adjoining wall that's has sound insulation).

She should have the 911 operator on the phone. And, do not hang up. Responding officers may want the operator to relay information or commands to your wife that will protect her and the officers.

Now I must admit, my wife never had to employ the room, phone or gun. But I felt much better knowing she would be able to protect herself as well as possible.

Now, if you ever buy a single family home, and have kids, I've got some ideas on that, and I KNOW they work.
 
Lots of good tips in this thread to harden the apartment to provide additional layers of protection.

My tip is to avoid any birdshot in the defensive shotgun. Birdshot will not reliably penetrate to the vital organs on a human being.

IME for apartment living the minimum should be #4 BUCKSHOT in a shotgun, which per the FBI barely penetrates the minimum 12 inches needed to reliably stop a human threat. Any firearm capable of reliably stopping a human threat will penetrate sheetrock. Remember the 4 firearm safety rules and survey your apartment to determine the safe to shoot and not safe to shoot areas.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr
 
Go to your front door and remove the stock screws and put in some #10-#12 3-1/2 inch Drywall screws in their place. Do this to the door lock plate also. have some paint because most door frame door screws are painted over and you will need to paint the hinges.
 
Just a note that the humidity in bathrooms can sometimes get so high that it damages electronics such as cell phones, and causes rust in wiring such as in chargers. Manageable if you always remember to use the vent and don't shut the door when showering.
 
Replacing the lock plate screws is the most bang for the buck you can do. Most of the time the standard screws are half inch screws. Long screws will mean they have to kick those screws out of two two 2X4s. Which is much harder. Not impossible, its probably not going to be fast and is going to be noisy. He might even hurt himself trying. Cost $2 for 4 screws.
 
A 18.5" barrel shotgun with birdshot never hurts either.

Birdshot will hurt plenty. :D
It just won't stop a determined attacker.

When I had a shotgun, my method was one round of the biggest birdshot I could find, intending to aim for the face, then the rest #4 buckshot. I switched that out for 00 low-recoil and a determination to not miss.

I'm a fan of the theory behind #4 buck. Penetrates deep enough (I personally don't think we all need the full 12" the FBI demands), and it will still go through sheetrock but loose plenty of energy.

If you're a fan of the AR15, light and fast .223 rounds do tend to disrupt and shed energy through sheetrock. Not the ability to fire with impunity, but better than the more stable handgun rounds.

First and foremost, though, is to replace those screws. JohnBlitz is right--most lock plate screws are just there to hold it, and 1/2" screws come out pretty easy. Take a trip to Lowes and find some 3" or 4" ones, and swap out the ones on the lockplate and hinges. They might even look exactly the same from the outside, but your average apartment door will have boot-holes through it before a 3" screw through a good 2x4 lets go.
 
Birdshot will hurt plenty.
It just won't stop a determined attacker.

Tell that to my friend who was shot at about 20 yards in a hunting accident. He was star-flighted out and in the hospital for over a month. He was hit lower right side of back. If a bad guy hurts you after taking bird shot at apartment distance it will only be after he comes back a few months later.
 
Good question.

Instead of my opinon on what, specifically, to get (others have provided lots of opinions on that already), let's talk about HOW to make those decisions.

Almost all crimes are crimes of opportunity. This is because most criminals don't really want to be caught, so they pick and choose their targets accordingly. It really puts a crimp in they style if they end up getting shot, beat up, or arrested.

So make reasonable choices based on making your apartment (and any occupants) a less desirable place to target. Consider these characteristics/factors:

1. Anything which increases visibility of people in the area.
2. Anything which increases the time a person has to spend in an open area while approaching/attempting to enter.
3. Anything which makes it more difficult to enter.
4. Anything which will draw the attention of other people.
5. Anything which minimizes the ability of someone to determine what's in your dwelling.

I'm sure there are other factors, but those are some pretty good ones.

Ask yourself: "If I were to choose a house/apartment in this area to break into, which would I choose and why?". The answer(s) to that are the areas you need to address.

Consider a typical neighborhood of houses as an example. Given the choice, would you rather break into a well lit house with neatly trimmed bushes or a darkly lit house with lots of trees and bushes to hide an approach to doors and windows? Is the house with closed doors and drawn curtains more attractive, or the one with the huge picture window showing the 72 inch flatscreen that holds parties with loud stereo music pretty frequently? The dark house with no car parked in front, or a lit house that looks occupied?


Any number of methods can be used to address any particular aspect. What works for some people might not be the best choice for you. If you can't have pets in your appartment, for example, then dogs are automatically not an option unless you move.


So, my advice is to read through everybody's opinions here and put them all into perspective for your circumstances using the guidance I provided here.


A SPECIAL NOTE ON WEAPONS:

Weapons aren't "preventive", in the situation I'm talking about. They are tools to be used when all the other measures to prevent/minimize being targeted fail.

While I'm all about people owning weapons for self-defense, one must face the reality of what a self-defense weapon (such as a gun, since this site is about that) is ultimately designed to do...which is to give its owner the ability to apply deadly force under circumstances where personal life, or life of another person, is seriously threatened.

Owning such a weapon for self-defense means you accept that pulling the weapon is a decision to use deadly force on another human being, which could maim or kill them.

To rely on the weapon, or the threat of a weapon, as your sole means of defense is faulty logic. Home and self-defense is a many-layered thing, beginning with self-awareness of your environment and maintaining yourself in the best environment you can.


Hope this helps.

:):)
 
My dad took the same sort of shot while squirrel hunting, closer to shoulder level. Handed his hunting partner his gun, went home, and my mom had to wait for him to pick the first couple out with needle-nose pliers before he would go to the hospital.

I assume your case had a tighter pattern.

I'm not saying it can't, and it will certainly ruin someone's day, but it's not as likely to be a quick showstopper.
 
If all other options have failed, which they should have failed if you are to the last resort stage of using a firearm for self defense, it better be a quick showstopper.

Notice that the two hunting scenarios just mentioned in this thread involving birdshot in a shotgun have victims that are still alive. Also, you can ask Dick Cheney's Attorney Friend/Former Friend how it feels to get shot with birdshot, because he is still alive.

Birdshot is not a quick showstopper, and you absolutely positively need that at 2am when somebody is kicking in your door.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr
 
You shouldn't care if they are dead or alive. You just want them out of the fight.

I wouldn't trust birdshot at any distance either. A schoolmate of mine tripped crossing a fence and shot his dad in the back with a quail load (not sure what it was). Anyway, the dad was wearing a nylon vest with some kind of batting, a type popular in the 70's. The range was about 15 yards the best I can tell.

His mom spent several hours picking pellets out of the dads back and he was sore for a while (in more ways than one), but he wasn't otherwise debilitated.

That said, at in-room distances I'd be very surprised if a load of #6 or bigger shot to center mass from a 12 or 20 gauge shotgun left anyone in the fight. But I would still recommend #4 or bigger buck for the task.
 
Even with a shotgun, peripheral hits (especially with birdshot) may well not stop. The two basic factors still apply when a shotgun is used - Placement and Penetration.

I used to refer to the article summarized below while the full text was available free on line as a case study demonstrating that fact:

One particular case has been documented from Australia. In February 1995, a man committed suicide on parkland in Canberra, Australia. He took a pump action shotgun and shot himself in the chest. The load passed through the chest without hitting a rib, and went out the other side. He then walked fifteen meters, reloaded, leaned the shotgun against his throat, and shot his throat and part of his jaw. He then reloaded, walked 136 meters to a hill slope, lay down on the slope, held the gun against his chest with his hands and operated the trigger with his toes. This shot entered the thoracic cavity and demolished the heart, killing him - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiple_gunshot_suicide

The article can be seen at https://www.mja.com.au/journal/2000/173/11/shotgun-suicide-difference for those interested in pursuing it further, IIRC the loads used were #2 shot.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top