Yeah, be sure to grease those threads really well to prevent gaulling. Although attaching a barrel is easy in theory, problems can present themselves. Getting to the 35lb torque spec is easy, lining up the next notch for the gas tube may not be so easy. Depending on the quality of your barrel wrench and the quality of the barrel nut you are using, the "teeth" on the barrel nut may give way at around 50lbs of torque. When you get to 50lbs, you're putting some pretty good pressure on the wrench.
What I usually do is to keep a few barrel nuts around. Sometimes, you can get lucky when one nut won't work. Try another and it might work. If I try a couple and it won't get to where I want it, I use an upper lapping tool with lapping compound to take a 1/1000th off at a time until I can time the gas tube. It usually doesn't take much at all. Ten or fifteen seconds with the drill. A hairs allow a lot more movement of the nut. I really don't like to torque too much and have never torqued up to 80lbs. I'm just afraid of galling the upper.
I've also found that the nuts that come with a lot of the free float tubes that are available make timing a lot easier because the timing holes are closer together than they are on a mil spec nut.
Just whatever you do, be sure to get a GOOD barrel wrench and a fixture to hold the upper while you torque the barrel nut. Don't try to skimp by going with the minimum spec or just under it. I've seen plenty of nuts come loose after firing because they weren't torqued tight enough.