AR-15 Front site post help?

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FatalMove

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Feb 19, 2006
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Nashville TN
The front site post on my a2 ar is shifted and my rear site has to be moved all the way to the left to shoot straight. If i try to align the front site which way do i knock the pins out from right to left or left to right? And which way do i need to rotate the front the sight if the rear site is all the way to the left? used scopes most of the time and irons confuse me duhhh haaa :confused: How fragile is the blowback tube and how should i care for it when i shift the front sight?

Any help will be greatly appreciated

FataL][V][ove
 
Is this a new rifle? You will not be able to straighten the front sight. If it has shifted the tapered holes for the taper pins have more than likley been tapered too far. This is a warrenty issue for the manufacturer.
 
If its a Bushmaster send it back and get it fixed, many Busmasters are having this problem its a factory problem read my post right above yours. The problem is the barrel can be canted or the front sight can be leaning. I just got mine fixed for the very same thing
 
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The rifle is not new and i cant send it for factory repair because the maker is no longer in business. How much would an armorer charge for making this repair? Is it worth trying to fix? :banghead:
 
It cost me about $168 to get mine repaired but that could change from town to town, I think the going rate is about $50 an hour but do not quote me, any gunsmiths out there know how much.
 
How did it shift?

Saying it shifted implies it was OK at one point. Was it dropped?


If the grooves for the pins are cut too sloppy, it is possible that was put on straight at the manufacturer, but then got out of line due to slop. Truth is, even on a good set up, theres enough play (to make it possible to install it) where you can be enough out of line to cause you to max out windadge.


He says pins...so I don't think it is the allen style screws. Off the top of my head, I don't remember which direction they punch out. I usually just measure with calipers because this job is rare to do for me.


If this is a new rifle from a specific maker...I'd send it to them. They'll probably only want the upper, less bolt/carrier/CH. Saves you shipping and shipping issues.
 
Put your Eagle Eye to it. Sight down the whole rifle (stock to muzzle) looking for a canting of the front post. It's usually very slight so it takes a good eye to pick it up.

Unless the rifle has been dropped or something, it's probably a problem in the indexing notch where the barrel joins the upper. Don't pay $168 (!!). Get a barrel wrench and the few other tools needed and fix it yourself.

Open up the notch toward the side that the barrel needs to rotate--- we are only talking a few very light file strokes--- shim the other side the amount that you removed.

Reassemble.
 
Ok guys the gun was bought used and if it was dropped it wasnt by me. i just sighted it in and had to move windage all the way left for zero. With cheap ammo golden bear 62 grain, it groups bout 1.25 at 50 yards. Should i worry about correcting it ? or just let it ride? :confused:
Jordan----I like your idea of twisting the the whole barrel and i understand the filing part but how do you shim such a small amount. how can you shim a couple of file strokes?
 
AR Front sight

Ok, is the front sight assembly canted to one side or the front POST bent? Front post is an easy fix. Front sight assembly cant is a larger problem.

One full revolution of the front sight POST equals 5 MOA of elevation change. One A2 front post click equals 1 1/4 MOA up or down. (old A1s were five clicks, one MOA per click. They kept the screw pitch and tossed out a detent notch) One click on the rear sight windage is usually 1/2 MOA movement.

If the post is bent, replace. Rock River has them for 2.50. The smaller diameter match posts are more, but not more than 15.00. Bent, polished, or mushroomed posts shouldn't be tolerated. You can rotate the bend toward you or away, so it won't be leaning left or right, but that's a field-expediant temporary fix. Straightening the post with pliers will break it.

With a proper post, I'd set the rear windage to Mechanical Zero. (middle of the hash marks on the back of the rear sight base lined up with the line on the top of the flipped-down peepsite. Some folks rub white-out or white paint into the lines and wipe off the excess so you can see them better.) Set the elevation at 3/6, (if marked) or two to four clicks up. Shoot a careful group off a sandbag and bench at 100 and see where it is. Repeat a couple of times to make sure your benchrest technique is good. I'd use a standard NRA 100 yard rifle bull and a 6:00 hold.

If the group is off 3:00 or 9:00, see if the windage knob will handle it. If it won't then the front sight assembly may be a problem.

Handle the elevation with the front sight post. Some folks like center-mass holds, some shoot 6:00 holds. (You can't set it for one and shoot the other without adjusting your rear elevation.) If the group goes in the middle, then this is your No-Wind Zero. The No-Wind zero is rarely the same as Mechanical Zero. (My service rifle No-Wind 200 yard zero is: Up 8, Right 2, for 69 Sierras on 26 grains of Varget. This sight has half MOA elevation and 1/4 MOA windage. )

If you can't get a No-Wind zero with the rear sight windage knob at 100 yards, then there is a problem with the front sight base.

First check to see if its broke/bent/cracked. If it's really gotten canted there is probably physical damage. It is a pretty easy replacement. The pins drive out TO the left, I think. Google up a schematic. You can always use a brass hammer or screwdriver through the sight base to try and move it, but if its moved very far, it's probably broken/bent.

Old time rifle range Sgts used to put the end of the barrel through a hole in something and bend it to fix radical windage problems. Don't do that.

The pins are going to put it where the pins are. Period. I'd forget filing. If replacing I'd get the allen-screw NMC front sight base. You can take all the cant out and (nearly) put your No-Wind zero at the Mechanical Zero.

I'd pass on screwing/unscrewing the barrel. You have to go all the way to the next gap for the gas tube. Replacing the front sight base will require unpinning the gas tube first from the front sight base. It's easy after you have done it once.

I'm sure this is too long, but I'll wrap up by saying that the M16A2 sight system is really pretty good- nearly match-grade. Properly indexed it works very well. (The only rap is the short sight radius, but at Camp Perry, the AMU was shooting 1000 yards with them.) It's the best standard iron sight system by any contemporary military.
 
the cant is usually induced when the upper is barreled

too much torque to align the gas tube and the post is canted to far to the left

Bushmaster had this issue back in '99, but they must have learned from that experience

there are a couple of fixes

the proper one is to remove the gas tube and grease & retorque the barrel nut

in extreme cases the barrel pin is bent or wallows the upper

a simple fix involves a leather mallet and some nerve
 
FatalMove, since your rear sight is moved all the way to the left to compensate, evidently your rifle is shooting to the right. Move your front sight to the right.

Note to long gun shooters. Adjust rear sight in the direction of desired bullet impact. To adjust the front sight, remember the admonition, "Chase the bullet hole."

Or when all else fails in your experience, move the front sight OPPOSITE the way you'd adjust your rear sight. Don't think too long over the physics involved, you'll go cross-eyed! Carry on, Austin Powers!
 
Fatal: Try Harry Buttle...er Tuttle's.. less extreme solutions before going to my barrel indexing extremes.

Should you have to move the pin in the indexing notch like I was talking about, and are looking for shim ideas-- Industrial type stores will sell a thin metal (comes in different thicknesses as one might expect) that is made just for shimming. Some of it is barely thicker than Reynolds Wrap aluminum foil.

Another more expedient idea would be to snip a little off the end of a feeler gauge. Feeler gauges are cheap at any auto parts store. This would work pretty sweet as one would know the exact measurement you'd moved it.
 
Well i decided to beat the H#!! out of it with a rubber mallet. it moved some and i didnt break anything. it is very difficult to tell where it would be centered. Think im just gonna let it go at that and use a reddot site mounted on suitcase handle.

Thanks for the help all.
 
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