AR-15 Lubrication

[Werewolf]

About 6 weeks ago I purchased a BM XM15E2S with 20" Fluted barrel. After working out a number of major bugs (required returning to BM) I've had two weeks to play with my new toy.

It's been well over 31 years since I handled an M-16 in the Army so I'm wondering about the proper method to lubricate the thing after I clean it. The BM manual talks about well lubricated this and well lubricated that. What does that mean?

Can one use grease on an AR? I use it exclusively on my pistol slides to good effect. I'm thinking grease would work well on the buffer and buffer spring. I'm thinking that grease mixed with a bit of CLP would work well on the bolt carrier and the inside of the upper where the bolt carrier rides. Straight CLP in generous amounts on the Bolt and the locking lugs and grease mixed with CLP brushed on to the springs and trigger parts down in the lower?

Does the above make sense? How do you guys lube up your AR's?

NOTE: Range gun only. Will not be used in the field. If it were to be used in the field would you change the way you lube the weapon?

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

The only parts of an AR that I lube are the bolt, the rails on the bolt carrier, the cam pin, and I'll hit the top of the charging handle and the channel it runs in with a shot of Remington dry lube or a coat of CLP so thin it isn't visible.

If you aren't using it in a sandy are or an area subject to fine dust, then just you can just douse the bolt and bolt carrier in CLP and the gun will pretty much keep on chugging regardless of the round count.

 

[Steve Smith]

I agree!

 

[Chris Rhines]

My AR gets a thin coat of Brian Enos Slide-Glide #1 grease on the buffer, bolt/bolt carrier, bolt rails, cam, and charging handle. I put a tiny dab of generic hardware store moly-disulfide grease on the trigger nose, hammer hooks, and disconnector contact points.

The AR does not need a huge amount of lubrication to run reliably. Most importantly, dousing the trigger parts in oil or grease will probably hurt your reliability. Just a dab will do.

- Chris

 

[ny32182]

Save the grease for autopistol rails, IMO.

I give the bolt/cam pin hole and the charging handle channel a shot of CLP each, and they've never malfed. I usually clean after several hundred rounds.

Some people in very dry/sandy environments report that running the gun completely dry or using a dry lube is better than using any wet lube at all. Unless you are in an environment so hazardous that you've got to change lubes based on temp or talcum power size sand, or other factors, it probably doesn't matter in the least. For range use, I can't imagine that the chosen lube would be anything but a non-factor.

 

[Werewolf]

Unless you are in an environment so hazardous that you've got to change lubes based on temp or talcum power size sand

Hmmmmm....
I am in Oklahoma where dust is indeed a common thing. It sounds like y'all are saying that if dust is an issue that light or dry lube is what should be used? YES?

 

[Texas Gunman]

WW, CLP should be all you need period, if you live in a dusty area and the wind is blowing it around. Just keep you bolt cover closed.

Bushmaster are field grade ARs, so you good to go.

When you do clean you Bushy, you can use Hoppes, dont bother cleaning inside your gas tube.

I waited 20yrs, since I'd ETS from the army, to buy a AR. :banghead:

I usely keep my Bushy cleaned, but learned not to over cleaned, they say it wears out quicker, also it can cause malfunctions.

Just read you Bushmaster owners manual.

TG

 

[ny32182]

Agree with TG... a light coat of CLP or similar; mag inserted and dust cover closed if you are shooting in a sandstorm, and you should be running fine all day.

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

I am in Oklahoma where dust is indeed a common thing. It sounds like y'all are saying that if dust is an issue that light or dry lube is what should be used?

In my experience (and I grew up in Oklahoma, shot my first AR15 and M16 there and now live in North Texas where the climate is similar), the local climate doesn't require dry lube. CLP has worked just fine for me, even in 25-30mph winds where dirt was blowing right into ejection port as I shot.

You don't need a lot of CLP (a visible sheen on the bolt carrier rails, bolt and cam pin right after application - CLP should be invisible to the naked eye anywhere else, use a lint-free cloth or old T-shirt to wipe off the excess) to get good results.

If there is a lot of airborne dust, keep the dust cover closed when not shooting and a magazine in the mag well.