AR-15 noob build. Better options than.....

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If the barrel is FN, it will say so. I'm not sure where PSA sources their other barrels, but they seem to be decent. I have two of their "freedom" stainless middy uppers and one .308 18" stainless; all have been reliable, and very respectable in the accuracy department. A couple of friends have had the PTAC phosphate uppers, and while they never equipped them with optics that would demonstrate the rifle's accuracy potential, they're able to hit what they're aiming at, and the rifles run just fine.

Having said all that, give this one some serious consideration:

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...ng-handle.html

It isn't much more, melonite makes the barrel more durable, and I think you'll find the balance better with a pencil or LW barrel than gov't profile or heavy.
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I have considered that one. Unsure as I have been reading up on the "melonite vs chrome" debate, and skeptical of the durability and "heat induced" inaccuracy of the pencil profiled barrels. Both would probably be a non-issue for a casual shooter such as myself, but I would like to have an "overbuilt" rifle for a "you never know" type scenario.

Probably been reading TOO much, lol. The options and variables to consider when building a "just right for me in my mind" AR is almost overwhelming, especially when cost is a factor.
 
Unsure as I have been reading up on the "melonite vs chrome" debate, and skeptical of the durability and "heat induced" inaccuracy of the pencil profiled barrels. Both would probably be a non-issue for a casual shooter such as myself, but I would like to have an "overbuilt" rifle for a "you never know" type scenario.
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Remember that the other one you're considering is only phosphated steel, which will be less durable than nitrided (melonite) or chrome lined tubes.

The advantage to nitriding is that it's cheaper than chrome lining, and also doesn't require an oversized bore to compensate for the lining. All else being equal, an untreated or nitrided barrel will be more accurate than a chrome lined one. The only real advantage to CL over nitride is corrosion resistance.

Yes, thinner barrels are more prone to stringing as they heat, but it's a temporary condition. And if precision is your aim, even a bull barrel should not see the number of shots in rapid succession that would cause a pencil barrel to string.

I built this 4.59 lb featherweight; one of the places I cut weight was turning an M4 profile 4140 barrel down to sub-pencil profile:

IMG_1419_zpsegzxlkkf.jpg

IMG_1381_zpswnmdjhwq.jpg

The rifle shoots 1.2 MOA with varmint ammo, 1.5-2 MOA with various ball loads. It shot like that before we did mag dumps on an M-16 lower, and continued to group that well afterward.

I have 11 ARs, only one of which sports a CL barrel. The rest are all 4140, 4150 or 416 stainless. Except for the 22" Wilson bull barrel, they all shoot about the same, regardless of pencil, LW, govt or heavy profile barrels.
 
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Remember that the other one you're considering is only phosphated steel, which will be less durable than nitrided (melonite) or chrome lined tubes.
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Yeah, i didn't notice that the first time I looked at it. Scratch that one, and thanks for pointing it out.

The more I read, the more I realize that, realistically, just about any configuration would suffice for my anticipated usage.
I kinda would like a nickel/chrome bcg, and a CL barrel just for ease of maintenence if nothing else.
How is the lightweight barrel in terms of recoil vs a bull/heavy barrel? Is it easier to stay on target for follow ups with the heavier barrel?

I do like the idea of lightening the gun amap, but I want a very manageable weapon as well.

Thanks for your input.
 
How is the lightweight barrel in terms of recoil vs a bull/heavy barrel? Is it easier to stay on target for follow ups with the heavier barrel?
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Depends on a number of things. Gas system and buffer weight affect felt recoil and muzzle behavior more in the AR than the differences in barrel profile. The above pictured rifle is actually more pleasant than a lot of 16" guns with carbine gas systems, because they are over gassed. My brake plays a role, too, of course.

Lightweight guns can be just as well mannered as any other with a good pairing of gas system and buffer, and a proper muzzle device. I build my own brakes & comps; some designs noticeably push the barrel downward (left), while others hold it quite neutral (right):

IMG_1401_zpsifepbkzn.jpg

What you want depends as much on the build as what type of shooting you'll be doing. You might wonder why you'd want a brake that causes downward muzzle movement; in very rapid or full auto fire, the countering forces keep the muzzle very close to level, and it's easier to apply upward force on a rifle than downward if necessary. This way, you maintain sight of your target. The more neutral comps are better for slower firing, though.
 
Depends on a number of things. Gas system and buffer weight affect felt recoil and muzzle behavior more in the AR than the differences in barrel profile. The above pictured rifle is actually more pleasant than a lot of 16" guns with carbine gas systems, because they are over gassed. My brake plays a role, too, of course.

Lightweight guns can be just as well mannered as any other with a good pairing of gas system and buffer, and a proper muzzle device. I build my own brakes & comps; some designs noticeably push the barrel downward (left), while others hold it quite neutral (right):



What you want depends as much on the build as what type of shooting you'll be doing. You might wonder why you'd want a brake that causes downward muzzle movement; in very rapid or full auto fire, the countering forces keep the muzzle very close to level, and it's easier to apply upward force on a rifle than downward if necessary. This way, you maintain sight of your target. The more neutral comps are better for slower firing, though.
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Nice work on the brakes.

I understand and agree. What I have been reading concurs with what you are saying.

Realistically, this gun will be 93% a range toy, and I am not into rapid fire so much, and not into precision long range shooting. The weapon will be fortunate to have 300-500 rds of food per year. Just want a smooth-shooting, reliable/durable, all purpose type rifle. So I feel based on that criteria, my target will be a 16" mid-length, light barrel either "melonited" or chrome lined, and hopefully with a nickel bcg. Later would like to add an adjustable gas block to really tweek the dwell/recoil.

I have heard compensators help recoil, but are extremely loud to the sides? Probably wouldn't be a hit at the range, lol...

The one you suggested just might be the ticket. Not sure about that rail though, and I wish it were a complete kit.
 
Largely just repeating what others have said but PSA makes good stuff. I've built two ARs now with PSA uppers, one in .223 for my wife and a 9mm for my Dad. No issues with either rifle they work fine.

Regarding the barrel, even the heavy barreled ARs are thin under the hand guards. I don't get it, seems like all that does is put a bunch of unnecessary weight at the muzzle end of the rifle. My next build will be with a light weight profile, just seems more logical.

Speaking of logical, resist the urge to get a quad rail. It doesn't make sense to have rails all over the place if you're only going to attache one or two things. Just get something like the Magpul handguard that lets you attach rail segments where you need them, and leave the rest smooth. I ditched the quad rail that came with my Windham rifle and went with this:

http://www.impactweaponscomponents....gth-hand-guard-w-iwc-s-qd-micro-mount-n-slot/

It's the basic Magpul "MOE" hand guard modified with a QD sling attachment point (I like the QD slings). Speaking of QD you might want to also consider one of these:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/18...ambidextrous-ar-15-lr-308-carbine-steel-matte
 
Nice work on the brakes.
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Thanks. They're 6al-4v titanium, BTW.

So I feel based on that criteria, my target will be a 16" mid-length, light barrel either "melonited" or chrome lined, and hopefully with a nickel bcg. Later would like to add an adjustable gas block to really tweek the dwell/recoil.
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NiB carriers are fine, and they do clean easier than phosphated. That said, the nitrided carriers are also slick, if you prefer a black finish (I do). AIM has great deals on them:

http://aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?...10+MPI+Bolt+Carrier+Group&search=bolt+carrier

On adjustable gas blocks; more trouble than they're worth unless you just can't get the thing to run right with any buffer, or if you have cycling issues going back and forth between suppressed and unsuppressed use, or between super-sonic and sub-sonic ammo.

I have heard compensators help recoil, but are extremely loud to the sides? Probably wouldn't be a hit at the range, lol...
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Brakes moreso than comps. Standard A2 bird cages and other flash hiders deflect a lot of blast out to the sides as well. If you're trying to keep the blast going down range, you want a flash can, or a linear comp like the Troy Claymore.

The one you suggested just might be the ticket. Not sure about that rail though, and I wish it were a complete kit.
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Rails can be changed, but the SQR's aren't half bad, and most folks who try them tend to like hand guards that extend further along the barrel. To me, a 16" tube with a 15" hand guard is both functionally and aesthetically superior to the shorter ones. YMMV, though.

As for it being a whole kit, if you wanted a NiB BCG (or nitrided), the full kit isn't a good option anyway. Plus, you can choose one of PSA's lower build kits with a nice Magpul or B5 systems stock and grip. Personally, I like the CTR or STR for carbines.

This is my "Freedom" upper build with a 15" UTG pro slim hand guard, YHM phantom flash hider, MOE grip and CTR stock:

aa8528e5-ce1f-44c2-be43-dc6615b1b018_zpsc8b60af4.jpg

Regarding the barrel, even the heavy barreled ARs are thin under the hand guards. I don't get it, seems like all that does is put a bunch of unnecessary weight at the muzzle end of the rifle.
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That's government profile; HBAR is quite a bit thicker behind the gas block (.840") than forward of it (.725"). And bull is ~1", usually dropping to .936" at the GB and ~.910" after. On the other end, LW will typically still use a .750 gas block, but runs around .625" fore and aft. True pencil uses a .625" gas block, and will be under .550" fore and aft.
 
As for it being a whole kit, if you wanted a NiB BCG (or nitrided), the full kit isn't a good option anyway. Plus, you can choose one of PSA's lower build kits with a nice Magpul or B5 systems stock and grip. Personally, I like the CTR or STR for carbines.
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What about this one?

http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...o-1-7-ultra-light-moe-defender-rifle-kit.html

Seems like everything I would want, and nothing I don't. It has the NiB bcg, light weight chf/cl barrel, middy, upgraded buffer, moe furniture, and nickel/polished fcg. Only other things I would need is a rear buis, and flashlight. (I kinda like the A2 fsb "look")

A little pricier than the other kits, but it's gtg as is (for me). The way I see it, I would be replacing parts and spending money on new ones (seems redundant) with any of their other kits.
 
Nice kit. If it's the right one for you, then don't wait too long.
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It would already be ordered, but I am waiting on a bonus check from work (that I should already have). :rolleyes:

Hopefully tomorrow, so I can catch the free shipping deal....
 
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