I think that was a good decision. Pulling bullets is a pain, but better to be safe than sorry. Some powder manafactures sites (Alliant for example) show MAX loads so you need to reduce by 10% to start as others have said. Some (Hodgdon/IMR/Winchester) show starting and MAX loads. Nothing wrong with doing it either way just something to be aware of.
If you have to drive someplace like I do to shoot I would suggest loading some up at MAX-10%, then some stepping up about .3gr (in .223 at least) at a time to almost MAX or MAX. So say 23, 23.3, 23.6, 23.9, 24.2...25.5
Say maybe 10 rnds for each one.
Shoot the ones with the start charge first and then the others checking for signs of excess pressure along the way.
Usually most loads in 223 will show a preference that you can notice with .3 gr steps. Once you know the ones that shoot best you can if you want dial in between the .3 steps, but usually .2 or .3 works for me.
One thing I have found helpful is to buy the pack of big sharpie markers with about 6 or 7 different colors.
I then mark the base of the case with a color say blue, mark piece of paper to go with the ammo with a blue mark and what the load is.
For example (9mm)
Blue mark =3.7 gr Universal MBC 125 gr cone bullet
Red mark = 4 Universal MBC 125 gr cone bullet
Green =3.7 HP38 MBC 125 cone bullet etc.
.....
This is also a handy way to ID your brass.
It helps me if I see the mark way for example I know that is my case and I have already removed the primer crimp. (great for .223/5.56 brass)
I also do this on sticky labels I apply to the outside of the box the ammo is in.
That way I have 2 ways to ID those loads.
I had a whole bunch of labels that peeled off plastic boxes cleanly........
Now if I had just made a label syaing what brand of labels they were.....:banghead: