I noticed that the safety on my almost complete AR will only function when the hammer is cocked. I have limited experience with AR type rifles, and don't know a whole lot about them (yet). Is this normal? Or should I go digging around inside the lower receiver and try to find out what is going on?
AR weirdness
- Thread starter Smeh
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Al Thompson
Moderator Emeritus
Normal. 
mljdeckard
Member
Yep. Will only go on safe with the hammer cocked.
Well, maybe I should clarify a bit more. The safety is stuck in the FIRE position, unless the hammer is cocked, then I'm able to switch it to SAFE. It makes more sense that it would be the other way around. Of course, I'm still a total noob to this though.
EDIT:
Never mind. Second poster beat me to it. Thanks a bunch guys!
EDIT:
Never mind. Second poster beat me to it. Thanks a bunch guys!
Is there a way to "smooth" out the safety/selector switch on an AR15. My Bushy and CMMG. Both feel like there's rocks in there, very gritty and hard to move. My guns are both well lubed and well taken care of.
The reason I ask is, I went to the gun shop and messed with a Colt 6920, an LMT defender, and a RRA. All were very, very smooth and silky.
The reason I ask is, I went to the gun shop and messed with a Colt 6920, an LMT defender, and a RRA. All were very, very smooth and silky.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Well, once more as usual, you get what you pay for.
AR parts come in all grades of quality and finishing. Some companies use the best quality mil-spec ones, and some companies don't.
Your grittyness can be caused by a rough safety lever, rough plunger, or a rough hole the spring & plunger fit & work in. Good grease usually helps, along with a gazillion operation cycles to wear the parts in.
As for the other question. You would not want the safety to be able to be put on safe with the hammer down on a combat rifle.
It is a red flag the rifle at least is cocked, and may be loaded if the safety works.
If it doesn't work, you won't find yourself charging a position with an empty rifle you thought was loaded!
rc
P.B.Walsh
Member
Just like my Rem. 700, it'll only go safe if a round is in the chamber.
Thanks RC, is the spring supposed to fall out when the pistol grip is removed ? I think it may be cheaper parts. How much is a new selector switch. I kinda like the "oversized" switches. Actually I'm starting to get more used to the AK style safety lever. The only problem it stratches the reciever.
I think the safety not engaging unless the hammer is cocked WAS a military requirement at the time. Aren't 1911's the same way?
My one of my Bushmaster safety's was stiff and kinda gritty from the get go. After cycling by hand about 100 times and a little field use smoothed it up quit a bit. As mentioned you should remove the safety as there is probably a little grit and assembly oil on the shaft not to mention the thick parkarized finish on them that excess will need to be wiped away as the parts break in and mate with each other.
My one of my Bushmaster safety's was stiff and kinda gritty from the get go. After cycling by hand about 100 times and a little field use smoothed it up quit a bit. As mentioned you should remove the safety as there is probably a little grit and assembly oil on the shaft not to mention the thick parkarized finish on them that excess will need to be wiped away as the parts break in and mate with each other.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
You can take out the spring & plunger and run a #22 drill bit in the hole to debur it.
Make sure the plunger is not in backwards.
It is only pointed on one end, and flat on the other.
The pointed end goes in the hole first and the flat end goes against the spring.
rc
Make sure the plunger is not in backwards.
It is only pointed on one end, and flat on the other.
The pointed end goes in the hole first and the flat end goes against the spring.
rc
sarduy
Member
Yes...remove/cut 1 or 2 coil of the spring that push the safety selector ditent,
i did it to mine and i can tell you it's very smooth now warning!
dont remove too much because it become loose.
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Re: Post #9
"Just like my Rem. 700, it'll only go safe if a round is in the chamber."
Not entirely correct. It doesn't matter if the round is there or not. It will go on safe with an empty chamber.
I think you have the concept - just phrased it wrong.
"Just like my Rem. 700, it'll only go safe if a round is in the chamber."
Not entirely correct. It doesn't matter if the round is there or not. It will go on safe with an empty chamber.
I think you have the concept - just phrased it wrong.
Detritus
Member
Yes, the safety dentent spring is held in place by the pistol grip, in fact the spring is partially contained in a hole in the top of the grip.
which means if you want an alternativce "adjustment method" to the following...
you can use a properly sized drill bit to deepen the hole in the grip in small increments until the tension is more to your liking. Also occasionally on a NIB gun/LPK there will be flash/trash in that hole that needs cleaning out, b/c it's adding unwanted tension.
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