AR15 Recce Build - P1 - Upper

[Sylvan-Forge]

Figure I'd post this for anyone who likes to see a project from start to finish.
I hope to not have much lag between updates, though I'm still debating on what components for the lower and getting loot together.

I'll include pictures along the way, though I'll wait until the THR servers are all finished up. Here's a general outline for now.
Feel free to discuss, ask questions, throw tomatoes, etc.



Here's what I've got spec'd for the upper:

Barrel: Pac-Nor 16" medium contour, polygonal bore, 5.56 chamber, extended feed ramps.

Receiver: CMT mil-spec with extended feed ramps.

Muzzle device(s): Smith Enterprises G6-A2 Vortex.

Gas system: Mid-length, direct impengement, Vltor low-profile gas block.

Handguard: LaRue 10".

Iron sights: (BUIS) Troy battlesights.

Bolt carrier group: LMT enhanced.

Charging handle: PRI M84 Gas Buster.


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[Sylvan-Forge]

Here's the Noveske 16" barrel group including a MP tested bolt:

CMT flat-top upper receiver:

Smith Enterprises G6-A2 Vortex flash eliminator:

LaRue Tactical 10" handguard shown with Tactical Beverage Entry Tool:

Troy Industries (Noveske marked) Battle Sights:

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

LMT Enhanced Bolt Carrier Group:



PRI Gas Buster charging handle:

 

[Cesiumsponge]

Let me know how the polygonal rifled Noveske barrel shoots. I'm very interested. Usually I only see pistol barrels with the polygonal rifling.

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Will do, Cesiumsponge.
I'm curious too.

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

The brown truck of happiness just showed up and brought me some tools, courtesy of Brownells:

On the left is the DPMS multi-tool.
At the top is a Starrett 565 pin punch set.

In the middle, left to right:
Sporting Conversions plastic pushtool (for take-down and pivot pins),
Sinclair cleaning link (keeps the upper in place for cleaning),
Brownells Colt 5.56/.223 field headspace gauge (for checking headspace after assembly),
Brownells 5.56 dummy rounds (for checking function after assembly),
Brownells Bolt Ejector tool (for ease of bolt assembly/disassembly).

At the bottom is the DPMS upper receiver block (for barrel installation and upper parts installation).

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

LMT Enhanced Bolt Carrier Group:

PRI Gas Buster charging handle:

 

[Cesiumsponge]

This is getting exciting! You even got Starrett brand punches!

 

[Wes Janson]

I want a Tactical Beverage Entry Tool, too.

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Waiting on the real hardware to show up, so for now ..

S'more goodies to 'show off':

Top to bottom: Sinclair cleaning cradle, lug recess tool, rod guide and solvent port, action brush, carrier key brush, chamber brush, small rod stop and azoom snap caps.


I know the cleaning stuff is not exactly germane to upper building, but I believe it is important to clean all the components thoroughly before assembly and testing.

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Quake Splatter Box,
Sinclair vise block, safety block, bench block, and Dewey muzzle guide.

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Almost forgot ..

PRI's barrel nut wrench:

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Goodies for the upper came in friday
Everything except for the LMT BCG

In order to install the Larue free-float handguard, the gas block that was pre-installed on the Noveske barrel needs to be removed to allow the handguard nut, barrel nut, PRI wrench, and spacer to get to the chamber end of the barrel.

Secured in the vise with rifle and pistol bench blocks and some Duck brand Easy Liner - for lining your silverware drawer. Happens to be good for opening stubborn jars too.

Drive out the pin.

Unscrew the locking screw.

A little bit of lube will help in reducing any scratching of the barrel while sliding off the gas block.


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[Sylvan-Forge]

Success!

Note the notch in the barrel for the gas block pin.


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[Sylvan-Forge]

Current thoughts regarding some of the stuff I got, that won't likely be used..


Takedown tool: I can push the both pins with my finger. Might be helpul for tight fitting receivers.

Bronze action and chamber brushes: Noveske only recommends a chamber mop and I hear tell that bronze against anodized aluminum may not be the best thing. For now, it's going to be cotton or wool mops for both. Time will tell.

Muzzle guide: Might be good in a pinch, but not really needed if already using a bore guide and cleaning from the chamber.


More to follow when the BCG comes home.


Good fun

 

[SpeedAKL]

Impressive, keep it coming as you move along!

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Thank you, SpeedAKL will do.

Part 2 (Lower) is up for any interested, http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=353936


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[Cesiumsponge]

Bronze action and chamber brushes: Noveske only recommends a chamber mop and I hear tell that bronze against anodized aluminum may not be the best thing. For now, it's going to be cotton or wool mops for both. Time will tell.

Technically nothing wrong with bronze in the chamber because the chamber is actually a steel insert that is pressed into the aluminum upper itself. Of course, depending on alloy, bronze can wear out an aluminum surface pretty quick so if you're careless, you can abrade off the anodizing from surrounding surfaces inside the upper.

I rarely need to scrub my AR chamber. Those star shaped felt chamber mops seem to be plenty good when you spin them around and use good solvent.

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Aye, Cesiumsponge, I can see using the bronze chamber brush if it gets really filthy. I'll likely never use the bronze 'receiver' brush though.

Got the BCG in. It's not the enhanced, just the standard.. for anyone waiting on the enhanced BCGs, LMT is supposedly shipping them July 31.

Here's more build:

Shown in the order installed.
From left to right is the spacer, barrel nut, handguard nut, and keeper.

Apply some anti-sieze compound to the threads.

And suddenly it just disappears
Place the keeper against the upper receiver.

Slide the handguard nut so it rests on the barrel threads.

Hand tighten the barrel nut.

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Set the spacer aside (fits into the Larue handguard, shown later),
and prepare to torque-set the barrel ...

Torque the barrel nut to 30 ft-lbs.

Loosen it up. Tighten and loosen two more times.
One more, this time to 35 ft-lbs.

Break out the "Eyeball Mark VII" and take a look ..
If your lucky, it will look to be aligned, if not, tighten until the nearest hole lines up, but don't loosen to get aligned, only tighten. If things just don't seem right, just start over .. loosen it up and tighten again to 35 ft-lbs.
I hear tell folks have gone up to 90 ft-lbs to get it aligned..

I wouldn't recommend going very high if using the plastic DPMS upper receiver block (claw) like I'm using, I probably ended up at around 50 ft-lbs and I could feel it start to bend. The clam-shell style block with insert would be best for high torque.

When it looks close, use a gas-tube or (brownells) gas-tube alignment gauge to check..
It looks straight.
But is it really?
Find out in the next episode ..


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[BsChoy]

Awesome post buddy!! My dept is sending me to Colt armorer's school for AR's later this month so I can't wait to get one done on my own!

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Thanks, BsChoy! Awesome deal .. going to Colt, that'll be cool!

If your interested .. The books I read up for this build are:
"The AR-15 Complete Assembly Guide" by Walt Kuleck and Clint McKee - got this from brownells.

Also, Army/Air Force technical manual - got this from midway (Army TM 9-1005-319-23&P)
(Air Force TO 11 W3-5-5-42)

Have fun at Colt!


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Build continued..

One way to test alignment is to place a straight piece of gas-tube or an alignment tool into the carrier key and then slide the carrier assembly into the receiver to see if it will pass through everything it needs to, without undue binding. For better feel, I wanted to remove the bolt from the carrier..

The firing pin retainer .. looks like a cotter pin, but it's straight .. no bent legs.

Slides right out.

Point the bolt to the sky and the firing pin drops out.

The cam pin in it's normal orientation.
(Warning- never fire without the cam pin in place! You will asplode!)

The cam pin rotated 90 degrees for removal.


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[jason10mm]

Heh heh, I've done this with the exception of fitting the barrel.

Ladies and Gentlemen, THIS is why "building your own" is NOT cheaper than store bought! Loading your build with the EXACT top-shelf parts you choose will always cost more than what the big builders use

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Pulls right out.
Note the hole in the cam pin .. this is for the firing pin.

Ready to pull out the bolt assembly.

Out it comes. Set the bolt assembly aside.

A few twists inside the carrier key with the brush.

Slide the brownells alignment tool in about 3/4" .. I tried both ends of both tools to find the best fit.



To be continued ..

 

[Sylvan-Forge]

Indeed, jason10mm .. not cheap 'tall.
Raman noodles anyone?

I'm glad to have done it (so far), what for the learning, nifty tools and all..

I just hope it shoots well ..