arisaka sporter stocks?

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james rogers

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I have an Arisaka Type 99 that has been bubba jobbed. So I figure what the hell...I might as well fix it up since its jacked to begin with. Anyone know where a reasonably priced sporter stock can be located for an Arisaka?
The operable word being reasonable = as far under 100 bucks as possible. Oh...forgot to mention, mum is ground and it is too far gone to really consider for a restoration.
 
james rogers, I just found out that my Arisaka is a 30-06! Gunsmith confirmed the caliber, and said it is safe to shoot as an 06. You might want to look into asking a gunsmith to ream the camber for you, and you can shoot the cheaper ammo.
 
31/06

The only problem is where do you buy cheap 31/06 ammo? The 7.7 uses .312 or .313 vs .308 in a 30/06. Might not grip the grooves very good. Let me know how accurate it is.

RR
 
James,

I haven't shot it with the 06 rounds yet. The gunsmith proofed it into a small bullet trap in his shop, so no accuracy results yet.

We should take it out in the next few weeks to see if the difference in bullet size is significant enough to keep it a curiosity or a shooter.
 
Probably not too hard to get the neck of your die polished slightly bigger & use an expander from a 303 Brit die & then just load .311-.312 bullets. It was apparently not an uncommon fix after WW2 to ream the 7.7 Jap chamber to 30-06. Accuracy could be questionable like this.
Steve
 
Ok, finally shot the Arisaka with 1940's dated 30-06 surplus ball ammo, at a target.

First the max range I could shoot was about 30-35 yards, so not a real good test of the accuracy.

I was shooting at a medical oxygen cylinder (empty) at the deer lease. Frontal area about 5 inches wide. I was able to hit the target with every shot on the tank body. Real good penetration, with good sized exit holes on the rear.

After a few rounds I targeted the neck of the bottle and the 1 inch wide valve on top. From 25-30 yards every shot hit, except one which I know I pulled off to the right (no fault of the gun). First shot at the neck left a significant dent in the thicker metal, second did the same. Third shot at the top of the valve knocked the top clear off, Fourth shot at the base of the valve, above the cylinder top, launched the valve deep into the woods. All shooting was off hand, no rest or sling.

So my assessment, I would trust the gun and ammo combination out to about 75 yards on deer sized game. If I were to want to hunt a longer distance, I would take it to a measured distance range and put it on a bench to better check it's accuracy.

It's been good to shoot the gun, and find out it's quarks, but I will probably clean it, and store it for good. I am fortunate enough to have better options for shooting and it's now a novelty. As a family heirloom, I will keep it in the family and pass it on someday.

Only problem, bolt hard to retract after shooting. No signs of over pressure on the spent casings.
 
The Arisaka is not supposed to be 30-06, and cannot normally chamber that round. It is properly chambered in 7.7 JAP. However, it can be bubba-ized to 30-06 by deepening the chamber. There's a pretty major difference between 7.62 and 7.7mm, though, and it's NOT going to be very accurate no matter how nice the bore is.

Hornady makes NEW 7.7 JAP cartridges. They're available at Cabela's for about $20 a box. I need to get some, as I'm fairly certain the ammo I initially purchased for my restored early-production Arisaka (Grandfather brought it back from WWII) was actually a handload with 7.7 brass and 30-06 bullets. The barrel is very good, so I'd like to see what it can really do.

Need to get a better picture of it:
Arisaka99Small.gif

Antiaircraft sights are actually intact, which is almost as rare as an unground mum.

How do you tell the difference between an early-war and a mid-war production Arisaka 99? There's no overall difference in quality, but early war Arisakas had an extra hole in the stock, just above and behind the center stock crosspiece (you can see it in my picture, just behind the indentation). This is the only major difference. Late-war production Arisakas (aka Last Ditch) were very rough and ommitted pretty much everything not required to fire a bullet.
 
Mike the Wolf, I think if you re-read the entire thread you will find that we know that the 30-06 is not standard for the Jap rifle.

This thread is about making do on what you have.

Mine has the anti-aircraft sights, cleaning jag, and just about everything except the mum and the mono-pod. It was converted after the war and I don't consider it "bubba-ized". The vet who had the chamber lengthened probably did it for practical reasons. There are other threads on this board about this exact thing.

My point is for a cheap shooter, enjoy it for what it is.
 
Personally, I think rechambering should only be done in cases where there is NO ammo available. It's more valuable, in my opinion, to be able to show your children and grandchildren a working example than a wall hanger, but permanent modifications should be a last resort.

Yours probably doesn't have the bolt cover, but very few do. It was the least-liked feature on these rifles, and was usually the first accessory to go.

For handloading, probably the best choice would be a 7.62x54R bullet. They're .311. Apparently at least some companies make .311 bullets for reloading nowadays.
 
Actually Mike, your wrong again. Not only does it have the bolt cover, but it also has a bayonet and scabbard from the same manufacturer as the rifle.

As far as the cambering, I don't really care that much. I am glad the accuracy is good enough to plink with. I am not real sure the availability of 7.7 right after the war in the U.S. That is the time frame, from what I can best determine, that the rifle was converted. So it was probably a practical exercise then, it might not be now. At least the 30-06 is a lot cheaper to shoot with the Greek ammo, and the other surplus stuff on the market. As far as a wall hanger, probably as part of extensive display of WWII rifles, but not until then. I will probably not shoot it much anymore, not because of necessity, but by choice. It is not worth my effort to reload for it, considering I will probably never shoot enough to pay for a set of dies.

Just to let you have an idea of it, I have included a picture. You can note mine has the hole as yours does. I did not know about the early mfg. date though. BTW where is your bolt cover? Sorry for the crappy picture, the camera in the phone sux.
 

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Very nice. Mine doesn't have the bolt cover (it was found on Okinawa in 1945, so it'd seen lots of actual use), but I acquired a proper bayonet for it. I'd estimate the manufacturing date for both rifles at 1939-41. Yours looks like it might have come out of a naval arsenal.
 
Thanks Mike,

Now tell my what made you say the Naval Arsenal? I can't remember the exact name of the mfg. but it is "The Bull". The blade has the same markings as the rifle, but I don't think they are a matched set. Only accessory I need is the mono-pod, I understand there are some aftermarket ones out there.
 
The condition of the wood is what made me say naval arsenal. Naval arsenaled guns were put in storage and not really used. This, coupled with the fact that it is clearly early-production and retains its bolt cover, leads me to believe that it went straight into a naval arsenal and never came out until the end of the war.

Mine is a Kokura.

This may be of help to you, and I hope you'll post anything you find:

http://www.radix.net/~bbrown/japanese_markings.html
 
I will take deer with mine after I re-barrel it. Mine was rechambered too, but it retains the length of the 7.7 case. I guess whoever had it was cutting down 30/06 cases for it and slightly blowing them out to fit the chamber. I bought a nice 7.7 chrome barrel. I think the 7.7 cartridge is going to work great on deer sized game. We shall see. For now I am hunting with my 7.65 Mauser this season.
 
I had to replace a few parts on my Arisaka as well. Before they let my grandfather ship it back, they removed the striker, striker spring, and bolt knob. I can't remember where I ordered the parts, but it might have been there. I installed the parts using a guide I found on the Internet, then took it to a gunsmith and had him look it over.
 
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