Barrel build

[ConfederateHoosier]

This may seem like an easy question to some with more gunsmithing experince than me, but I need to know the answer.

My taurus handgun has ZERO options for aftermarket barrels, which is sad because almost every other gun ever made does. Now heres my quesion, if I were to buy a 9mm barrel blank from Numrich or Brownells and had it taken down to the proper length, how do you re-create the chamber and feed ramp? Or is the old barrel simply cut off and the new one attached to the chamber?

The reason I want to know this is because I want a threaded barrel for my gun and no one makes them. My grandfather has been building and turning barrels for years now as a precision long range shooter and wildcatter so I would have him do it for me as I have no business or lathe to attempt it myself. Any help would be great.

 

[PT1911]

is there some reason you cannot have your current barrel threaded? seems like the most simple option.

 

[ConfederateHoosier]

Well maybe I could, but I always thought that the reason threaded barrels protruded 1/2 inch or so from the slide, was so that something could be attached. if I threaded it now in its current state (where the slide covers 100% of the barrel) then I dont think it would allow the gun to function as the slide would be out of battery.

 

[Mac's Precision]

What you are suggesting would be a somewhat complicated process. You would have to acquire a 9mm blank about 1.5 inches in diameter to allow enough meat to form the locking block and barrel feet. The chamber would be cut in using a chambering reamer and throater. The feed ramp would be cut in using an end mill.

The process would look some what like this:

Mount the blank on centers

cut the barrel diameter up to where the locking block will be

Move the barrel to the mill

profile the locking block to match the original barrel

rough cut the chamber short of full depth

finish ream the chamber to appropriate SAAMI depth using a "go" gauge

Cut the lead in throat

mount the barrel at the appropriate angle to use an end mill to cut in the feed ramp to mirror that factory barrel. DON'T go too deep on the feed ramp as unsupported cases will rupture.

Now you will have to fit the barrel to the slide for minimum breech fit and a maximum of locking lug to slide fit.

You should have replicated the diameter of the original barrel so it should fit in slide muzzle hole.

Once it fits properly then take the original barrel and the newly made barrel and send them to Industrial Heat Treating In Salt Lake City. Have them Rockwell the original barrel and then treat your newly made barrel to match.

Once it returns...then you get the job of test firing it .....remotely with a piece of cord..from behind your nearest tree...or concrete wall. Fire 10 rounds remotely then remove the barrel and inspect for damage or stress.

You will want to make sure that the barrel blank material is made of 4140 or similar high grade material.

It isn't really as simple as re-barreling a bolt action rifle. This is also why buying a drop in barrel for $125 is a pretty darn good deal after thinking what kind of work goes into them.

What you are suggesting would be a labor of love rather than a cost effective option of getting a barrel that will accept threads. In all terms of practicality it would be cheaper to buy a Glock...and then purchase a Lone Wolf barrel.

Cheers
Mac.

 

[dirtyjim]

i think the simplest way to do it would be to turn a small step on the end of the barrel then thread it. then make a threaded sleeve for it that would extend the barrel.

 

[Chuck Warner]

Barrel

If its a 1911, barrels are available. You didnt specify the gun.

 

[Maj Dad]

My taurus handgun has ZERO options for aftermarket barrels

I was wondering, too, why a 1911 aftermarket bbl wouldn't fit the Taurus. I know there are always minor/minute diffeence, but a 1911 is a 1911, isn't it?

 

[Mac's Precision]

I don't believe he is working with a 1911 platform gun. I think he is discussing one of Taurus' other 9mm semi auto variants such as the 24/7 etc. They use a locking block that looks like a Glock...Sig.. etc. with an inclined plane locking lug.

If he is discussing a 1911 platform...or a 92F knockoff...then there should be options in that area for sure.

Maybe he can repost and let us know.

Cheers
Mac.

 

[ConfederateHoosier]

Ok guys this is some good info. Mac's the process you explained is a bit more complicated that I previsouly thought haha. And yes the gun is a 24/7 pro 9mm. So the whole process you explained seems a bit cost prohibitive. Now would the process dirtyjim laid out seems to be a bit more feasible. I feel like it could be accomplished rather simply but my only thought is that by threading the muzzle and then attaching more threads that extend past that ( if thats even what you meant, I may have misunderstood) wouldnt that ruin the muzzle crown? Now maybe pistol barrels arent crowned,I dont know. But I would assume they are even though it doesnt look the same as say a rifle crown.

 

[ConfederateHoosier]

Also would it be possible to aquire an aftermarket drop in for another pistol in the same caliber, and then using the lathe or any other means take it down to the dimensons of the taurus chamber and adjust the feed ramp as needed? I assume it wouldnt work if the drop in was already smaller than the 24/7 specs, but if it was bigger could it be milled down to fit and function?

 

[Maj Dad]

Oops - failed to process the 9mm/feedramp reference. Definitely a project/learning experience and not an economic one... For economy, a different gun would be the answer.

 

[ConfederateHoosier]

Well I mean if it were possible to do fit another brand of drop-in, or just thread the end of the muzzle, then attach more threads to those. Then I would do it because I (well my grandfather) already has the equipment that would be needed as he does alot of his own rifle barrel work, cutting threads, all that good stuff. So if it were possible to fit another drop-in then I would do that, as my only out $125 or so, which beats spending another $500+ on a glock after I already dropped about $400 on this gun.

 

[dirtyjim]

my only thought is that by threading the muzzle and then attaching more threads that extend past that ( if thats even what you meant, I may have misunderstood) wouldnt that ruin the muzzle crown?

you would only need to machine a short step about 3/4" long on the outside of the muzzle end of the barrel then thread it. you would not do any cutting on the crown. a sleeve roughly 2" long that has the same od as the original barrel would then be threaded internally on one end and threaded externally on the other end would be screwed onto the barrel.
basically it would just extend the barrel enough to attach whatever you were planning on attaching to it.

 

[Mac's Precision]

Jim has a good suggestion. You COULD thread the outside of the existing barrel provided there was enough wall thickness to accept the threads and such.

I would suggest that if you are going to put a sleeve over top of the barrel you extend it far enough back that the slide runs ON the sleeve and does not have to transition over the sleeve / barrel joint as it may click or disturb slide movement.

I would make the sleeve out of 4140. Stick to fine threads such as 28 to the inch. Make the sleeve first tapping it with a new sharp tap and then thread the barrel to achieve a nice tight class 3A fit. Use the sleeve as your "master nut" to determine your fit. Degrease the sleeve and barrel well. Apply a bit of red locktite to the barrel and threaded sleeve and assemble as a permanent fixture. (Alternately you could use Brownell's low temp silver paste solder in the threads as it might be a tad stronger at the joint) Once assembled and the locktite is set, then chuck up the barrel and emery the joint of the two parts to get a nice seamless transition for a quality looking job.

You should thread the muzzle of the sleeve for the appropriate thread for your muzzle accessory (comp or can). Mill a flat in the threads on the bottom of the sleeve AFTER it is installed on the barrel. Locate the barrel in the mill using the locking block to acquire a proper 90 degree orientation for the milled flat. This will ensure that it is straight up and down and the accessory will be attached square. Install the accessory with a set screw. Apply a bit of anti seize to the accessory threads to prevent sticking. Don't locktite the muzzle accessory on as it will need to be removed to disassemble the barrel out of the slide for cleaning.

I wouldn't want to see you remove more than half the barrel thickness before installing the sleeve. The sleeve will aid in strengthening the reduced portion but the weak point will be where the sleeve / barrel joint come together. It will be important that you end the threads on the barrel in a radius and create a good square joint above the radius for the sleeve and barrel to mate against. Done correctly there should be no line where the to materials meet. Chamfer the inside of the sleeve where it mates with the barrel to allow clearance for the radius.

Be sure that the sleeve threads on freely by hand with OUT tools. You wouldn't want to have to crank it on as you might be compressing the barrel IN the sleeve thus reducing bore diameter and increasing pressure during firing. The same concern is true with regard to loctite as it does swell when curing. I would take a bore measurement prior and after the installation to be sure you haven't compressed the bore. As such if you decide to use loctite a thin film will be adequate. No need to have it dripping as more loctite will lead to more expansion in the joint. In reality I would suspect that shrinking the bore is unlikely but should be noted and checked just in case.

With any job like this you should check the availability of a replacement factory barrel should some disaster happen during modification. A little insurance of knowing you can go backward should a problem happen....is comforting.

Cheers
Mac.

 

[ConfederateHoosier]

Wow Mac, thanks for the answer, thats exactly what I needed, although to be honest with you im not quite the master of barrel modifications so alot of that went over my head, had to read it a few times. But im sure my gunsmith..er grandfather would know exactly what u mean. And when you say "make the sleeve" I take it you mean that one cannot just buy a 9mm barrel sleeve so one would have to be constructed?

And the availabilty of a spare barrel is none, Taurus does not sell parts like that and no aftermarket ones are made. However I have heard from some on the Taurus gun forum that since the guns have a lifetime warranty and if the part is one that requires no fitting ( barrel, dust cover, etc.) that if you call them and ask for it and or give them some story they will usually ship one out free. Thats about the only way I could get one I think, and I would aquire a spare barrel before attempting this, as im sure modifying the barrel voids your warranty.