JustinJ
Member
All oils and oil based products are hydrophobic so will adequately displace water.
Barrel preservation, keeps corroding
- Thread starter sv51macross
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I have been shooting C&R rifles for many years and they eat corrosive ammo by the case. After I arrive home from shooting, I clean this way......while holding the rifle vertically with the muzzle down, squirt Windex ammonia down the chamber until it runs out the muzzle. Then squirt the bolt face, and gas system if applicable. Then run a dry patch down the bore. Run a wet patch, Hoppe's, then follow with a copper brush. Then dry patch and repeat with a wet patch. Check the wet patch for fouling. repeat as necessary to get a clean bore. Then run a wet patch, Breakfree or LPS2, and you are done with the bore. Wipe the bolt to remove the windex. Wipe with a wet patch, Hoppe's, and then a dry patch. Wipe with Breakfree or LSP2 and let dry. Apply grease, I use Miltec, to applicable places. After wiping down the whole gun, I use Breakfree or LPS2, you are done. LPS2 is a milspec rust preventative and lube that dries. In 20 years of using LPS, I have never had a problem with rust. LPS can be purchased at hardware stores and it comes in three grades, 1,2,3. chris3
BrocLuno
Member
And, if you need a semi-permanent dry film try Boe-Shield TO9. Designed for landing gear that gets deiced and HAS to live w/o corrosion. Works very well for storage 
Powderman
Member
This is a good way to ruin your barrel. The bore brush probably won't hurt--but that same brush rotating across the lands and grooves will scratch up that bore in short order.
You'll need to take the wood furniture off, and totally submerse the whole gun in some warm soapy water. Disassemble it as much as possible first, of course. Use a toothbrush everywhere you can, and a bore brush. Shake it off, then blow it out with compressed air. Lube well, and put it away.
I would also put a couple of dessicant bags in the storage container.
Good advice for dealing with corrosive ammo in this thread as well as storing a gun in the garage where it is exposed to a lot of temperature changes and humidity. Something I experienced shooting lacquered steel case ammo is that you can get lacquer buildup in your chamber. That's where a brush on a drill comes in handy, but make sure you only scrub the chamber. I used a .45 cal. brush on mine when I started having trouble with cartridges not seating properly and it solved the problem. I've read and heard several times that the lacquer burns off but I've owned an SKS for about 20 years and my experience is that it will build up over time. You need to scrub the chamber very thoroughly after any shooting session using lacquered cases and once in awhile, probably every few thousand rounds you might need to hit it with a drill, especially if you try shooting SAAMI spec ammo rather than CIP spec.
Curator
Member
After shooting corrosive mil-surp ammo I wash out the bore with hot water then dry with cotton cloth patches. I then swab the bore with common automobile automatic transmission fluid. I live in SW Florida and keep guns in my garage. ATF prevents after-rust and does not get gummy with time. I've tried lots of gun oils over the years. I have yet to fnd anything that works better for this kind of application. It even stops after-rust on my in-line muzzle loader when I've shot Pyrodex powder--which is a true miracle since NOTHING else will.
I've also used Windex to clean after shooting corrosive ammo. Some who apparently know more than I have claimed that Windex, which is pretty much just soapy water, isn't any more effective than hot soapy water.
Whatever the case, Windex worked for me and that's how I'd clean after corrosive ammo if I was shooting any now. And it's already prepackaged in a convenient spray bottle!
Whatever the case, Windex worked for me and that's how I'd clean after corrosive ammo if I was shooting any now. And it's already prepackaged in a convenient spray bottle!
ColtPythonElite
Member
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- Jan 8, 2011
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- 10,477
I believe in cleaning my gun after corrosive ammo, but believe some of you guys are going the overkill route and worrying about it more than you need to.
My dad has an old Mosin he bought off a kid he worked with for 10 bucks. The story was it had a "bad" firing pin. The kid said it would misfire most of the time. My dad tried it a few times with the box of corrosive shells that came with the gun. He got it to fire a few times, but had misfires. He threw it in a closet with a dirty bore for nearly a decade. About 2 months ago, I asked about the gun. My dad gave it to me to fiddle with. I found nothing wrong with the firing pin other than it needed adjusted. I ran a dozen or so patches thru it and got nothing but rust colored cloth back. I let it sit with some bore cleaner a few days and finally started getting clean patches. The bore looked fine. I took it to the range and could hit a 8" x 12" gong at 125 yards everytime. That lack of care didn't seem to hurt the gun at all.....Basically, give it a little attention after you shoot it and it will be fine for another 100 years.
My dad has an old Mosin he bought off a kid he worked with for 10 bucks. The story was it had a "bad" firing pin. The kid said it would misfire most of the time. My dad tried it a few times with the box of corrosive shells that came with the gun. He got it to fire a few times, but had misfires. He threw it in a closet with a dirty bore for nearly a decade. About 2 months ago, I asked about the gun. My dad gave it to me to fiddle with. I found nothing wrong with the firing pin other than it needed adjusted. I ran a dozen or so patches thru it and got nothing but rust colored cloth back. I let it sit with some bore cleaner a few days and finally started getting clean patches. The bore looked fine. I took it to the range and could hit a 8" x 12" gong at 125 yards everytime. That lack of care didn't seem to hurt the gun at all.....Basically, give it a little attention after you shoot it and it will be fine for another 100 years.
BrocLuno
Member
The other thing that may be getting to you is storing that metal in closed rifle case in an unheated garage. The metal will always be behind the heating and cooling temp curve because of the padded gun case. (insulation) so it will condense (sweat) inside the case. Better off putting it in a Remington or Winchester silicone treated "gun sock" with a trigger lock and shoving up in the rafters where it can range with the ambient temp.
sv51macross
Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2009
- Messages
- 380
Well, just got back from the range (and got out late as usual. Bought 120 rounds and only got off 35 before they closed. lol). Dumped soapy water down the bore as soon as the ceasefire was called, and when I got home ran patches until they came out clean as they went in. WD-40'ed the barrel and gas block...we'll see how she fares.
BTW, still only 90 rounds I've ever shot. Was lucky that 3/4 my shots were on the shoot-'n-see. I think I'm going back before the end of the week.
And to BrocLuno, the idea is to prevent theft, not mishandling. A trigger lock? Either way, she's moved to a better hiding spot (unless any would-be-thieves are also model railroaders. lol)
BTW, still only 90 rounds I've ever shot. Was lucky that 3/4 my shots were on the shoot-'n-see.
I think I'm going back before the end of the week.And to BrocLuno, the idea is to prevent theft, not mishandling. A trigger lock? Either way, she's moved to a better hiding spot (unless any would-be-thieves are also model railroaders. lol)
bigedp51
member
Simple terms dealing with corrosive ammo and what it can do to your barrel.
Below a brand new bore will look like a piece of glass. (use you imagination)
If the barrel and gas system is not properly it can become "frosted" and will get microscopic pitting that steadily gets much worse.
Below, the "much worse". The pits below will become filled with copper jacket material and you will spend countless hours cleaning the bore.
(unless your smart and use foam bore cleaner and let it do the work)
The humidity of where the rifle is stored and how much corrosive salts remains will determine how much "worse" is.
A frosted or pitted bore is a bugger to clean and will "eat" copper bore brushes and can give you a "false" reading of copper. If not cleaned properly it will "eat" your gas valve on a Yugo 59/66
Corrosive salts are flushed out with water, and preferable hot water. Plain old soapy water will work wonders followed by a good oiling. (and repeated checks afterward with a clean patch looking for that nasty brown colored "RUST".
Below a brand new bore will look like a piece of glass. (use you imagination)
If the barrel and gas system is not properly it can become "frosted" and will get microscopic pitting that steadily gets much worse.
Below, the "much worse".
The pits below will become filled with copper jacket material and you will spend countless hours cleaning the bore. (unless your smart and use foam bore cleaner and let it do the work)
The humidity of where the rifle is stored and how much corrosive salts remains will determine how much "worse" is.
A frosted or pitted bore is a bugger to clean and will "eat" copper bore brushes and can give you a "false" reading of copper. If not cleaned properly it will "eat" your gas valve on a Yugo 59/66
Corrosive salts are flushed out with water, and preferable hot water. Plain old soapy water will work wonders followed by a good oiling. (and repeated checks afterward with a clean patch looking for that nasty brown colored "RUST".
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