Barrel Removal

[splattermark]

Okay, I've got an Ishy 2A1 I'm using as my experimentation rifle. Since I'm playing around with GunKote right now, I wanted to coat and bake the barrel and recevier. Only problem is, there's not a lot of ovens that will fit the barreled receiver of an SMLE.

So, I was going to get a barrel vise and wrench from Brownell's and try to remove it, but since I don't want to become a Bubba I had a couple questions just to be extra careful.

In the Ishy SMLE, is there any sort of barrel retention screw in the receiver ring that's been milled flush? I've seen this a couple times before in some other rifles. Inspection yeilds nothing, but I don't want to crack or warp the receiver as a result of accidentally passing it over.

Another thing- I'm familiar with the process of lapping & headspacing new barrels (in theory, at least), so I was wondering... when simply re-installing properly fit barrels, must you go through the same procedure? I had planned to just make 3 small re-alignment marks and torque it back down to there, but I figure it'd be smart to check the headspacing anyway (I just don't have any 7.62 NATO gauges and I don't really have the extra minimum 50 bucks I'd need to shell out for a GO/NO GO set at the moment).

Thanks for your advice in advance, THR.

 

[Jim K]

I assume you feel that removing the barrel is worth the trouble just to put on a new finish. I don't think it would be, but I am not you.

One thing you need aside from the tools is a very heavy bench to mount the barrel vise. The ordinary light work bench just won't do. Then be aware that the SMLE receiver has to be handled carefully; it is not a 98 Mauser, and a slip of the receiver wrench can twist that receiver pretty easily. There is no barrel retention screw (or there shouldn't be - who knows what the Indians may have been up to?).

As to rebarrelling, your idea of marking the barrel position is fine. Use a small chisel and stamp in clear marks (or one mark that covers both parts). If the barrel is re-aligned using the marks, it should come up fine with no need to worry about headspace. The alignment doesn't have to be perfect; a tiny bit off won't matter.

Jim

 

[splattermark]

We've got a very heavy workbench- actually some 2 1/2 inch thick kitchen cabinet-top joisted and bolted to the studs of the wall behind it. It ain't goin' nowhere

As for it being worth it, like I said, it's what I've decided to experiment with to practice basic repair skills. Since I've never removed and remounted a barrel, I figure this is something I've been needing to learn to do. (Although, as per your suggestion, I will be super-careful with the SMLE reciever- I've heard from other sources as well that it's a fragile action when compared to a Mauser or most modern commerical bolt-action rifles).

Oh, and thanks for the quick answer, Jim.

 

[cuate]

A while back I came by an US Model 1896 Krag. On close examination I found pipe wrench marks on the barrel just foreward of the receiver, faint but there.

Don't you just love "hammer mechanics"? Its now at my gunsmith's with a new
barrel to be installed, the pipe wrench barrel bulged cases a bit with reduced loads and I felt unsafe with