Basic info on rifle refinishing

[SteelyDan]

I've done a very small amount of wood finishing and refinishing over the years, so I'm not completely ignorant, but pretty close. There are two rifles with okay wood but terrible finishes that I would like to refinish. So I have four questions:

1. What's the best way to remove the existing finish? One of the existing finishes sems "varnishy," and the other seems "polyurethaney," but I don't know for sure. I've used a couple commercial products in the past (not on guns) and they seemed okay, and I've read about Easy-Off oven cleaner, but I don't know what to use.

2. Once you get the old finish off, I assume you want to do some sanding and maybe some steaming to try to take out the dents, but is there anything else?

3. I don't think I want to stain the wood, but if I change my mind is there a good brand of all-purpose stains? I have no idea what kind of wood is on the guns.

4. What is the recommended finish if your criteria are: (a) durable, (b) waterproof, and (c) not shiny. Understand, these are relatively inexpensive rifles, and I'm not expecting miracles. I'm leaning toward a satin polyurethane, but I'd prefer something less shiny.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Jack19]

Go over top Parallax's Curio and Relic Board, there's a huge part of the site dedicated to refinishing/preserving/protecting wood.

Look up a guy with the name Cabinetman, I think he posts here too. He knows everything, and I mean everything, there is to know about dealing with wood.


I think this is the link http://pub42.ezboard.com/bparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums

 

[DMK]

What is the recommended finish if your criteria are: (a) durable, (b) waterproof, and (c) not shiny. Understand, these are relatively inexpensive rifles, and I'm not expecting miracles. I'm leaning toward a satin polyurethane, but I'd prefer something less shiny.

Pure Tung Oil. It's a nut oil that polymerizes(sp?) into a waterproof, non shiny finish. If you get a scuff or need to re-apply, you can just add another coat at any time. It's non toxic so you can apply it with your bare hands.

Just be aware that most Tung Oil "finishes" you see in local stores are basically varnish, not pure Tung Oil

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

 

[shoobe01]

I like scraping, especially over sanding. It pre-dates sanding by a few dozen centuries, btw.

Scrapers can be made if you have a grinder, or go to somewhere like Woodcraft and buy some. These are traditional types, and you can imagine how easy they are to make from scratch. These are the kind I like.

I use them to remove the finish, and find that most damage is taken out from this step. More severe military-grade damage could require steaming. Read up on the various techniques.

If oils don't work for you (and plain old linseed is nice also) then Defthane is the only way to go for polyurethanes. Many, many thin coats.

 

[Coltdriver]

The best and quickest way I have found to remove the old finish is with a hand held orbital sander. Not the large two hander, but the small single hand unit. Put some 60 grit on it and it will let you make quick work of the old finish right down to fresh wood with no problem. Hand sand it with a 160+ grit paper to get it real smooth. If you want it to look really nice, final sand it with a 200+ grit paper.

Using a small orbital sander you can strip with enough accuracy to preserve the checkering if it exists. I have done everything from a relatively cheap savage to a pre 64 model 70.

If you have checkering it helps if you just tape over it with masking tape.

All but the worst dents can be sanded right out. The very last detail sanding can be done by hand.

I have tried three things. Spar varnish, tung oil and poly eurethane.

Poly eurethane is my least favorite and produced the least acceptable results for me. It was too difficult to get the final finish perfect. I used the brush on variety over a poly stain.

Tung oil is excellent, however, it is a time consuming process. The right way to use it is to apply a coat, let it sit for 24 hours, sand it back with a 180+ grit, wipe it down and coat it again. It does build nicely but very slowly. There is probably something you can do to keep the final finish a satin gloss. I have done a couple of rifle stocks but I wanted them glossy and shiney. It takes about 12 coats to get to a glass quality finish.

The spar varnish is probably the most durable and it builds quickest. Three coats and you are done. I don't know the trick for getting it to have a satin finish but I am sure there is one.

The really nice thing about tung oil and spar varnish is that fixing after season blemishes is as simple as sanding the unit down and applying a fresh coat.

 

[TimRB]

To remove old finishes I use Jasco paint remover. Glop it on, wait a few minutes, and brush it off using plenty of water. If need be, apply twice. When rinsing, use a toothbrush and liquid detergent to get everything out of the cracks. Let the stock sit in the sun to dry before sanding or applying finishes. I use tung oil or boiled linseed oil and rub it on by hand.

Tim

 

[Jack19]

Oh and before you start scraping, sanding, steaming or whatever else you want to do to the wood, make sure you're not removing cartouches on a rare and highly valuable item.

 

[Roadrunner]

Another method for removing old finish and crap is put the wood, minus any metal fixtures, in the dishwasher (if it fits). Use whatever brand detergent you have, but remember to remove the wood before the drying cycle. If you leave the wood in the dishwasher during the drying cycle, you risk cracking it. The hot water even raises dings and gouges in the wood too.

I've done several FAL G1, Izzy LB and L1A1 stocks, grips and forearms this way.

 

[Mike Hull]

I use Dad's Easy Spray paint, and varnish remover. Just follow the directions, and use mineral spirits(paint thinner) on your steel wool to neutralize the stripper, after removal of the finish.
You won't end up with a water soaked stock that way, and less raised grain.

I have used Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil stock finish on many gunstocks.
Apply a coat, by hand, let it dry, steel wool(0000, or 000) and reapply.
Do that until everything is filled(no open grain).
You can satin down by rubbing with 0000 steel wool, and rubbing out with Birchwood Casey stock sheen and conditioner.

All that stuff is available from Wal Mart.

Good luck.

 

[.45&TKD]

What are Cartouches?

cartouches

 

[TimRB]

"What are Cartouches?"

They're those little symbols, insignia, etc. stamped into the stocks. Sometimes the manufacturer puts some on, and then maybe the rifle gets more at an armory when it gets repaired or rebuilt. You should always try to save them if you are worried about the collector value of your rifle.

Tim

 

[Dionysusigma]

Of course, if collector value is that important to you, DO NOT refinish the stock.

What're the main differences between linseed oil and tung oil? Dad uses linseed for a lot of stuff around his house, so naturally I refinished my AK stock with it...

 

[TimRB]

"Of course, if collector value is that important to you, DO NOT refinish the stock."

Good point. If the rifle really is a true collector's item, the finish should be left alone.

Tim