Depends on your age, your eyes & your patience level. After using a beam scale for many years, I started having trouble reading those numbers. I got an RCBS digital scale. It's incredibly accurate & consistent & fast. No waiting for the beam to stop bouncing. Calibration is a snap & I check accuracy with weights frequently. It's NEVER off.
beam or electronic scale
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bds - I talked to a guy that tunes / repairs reloading scales, you probably know who he is, he said from my description it is likely a manufacturing defect and not something he could repair.
The main poise was right on. the 5 grain increments are fine. but if you put a weight, like a 55 grain bullet on the scale and zero the balance to the weight. Then move the main poise to 50 grains and the secondary poise to 5 grains - it's off, and it's off consistently. There is really no way to fix that problem by adding weight to the pan or to the arm. The arm is mis cut.
I've ordered a new redding from the scale guy I mentioned.
The main poise was right on. the 5 grain increments are fine. but if you put a weight, like a 55 grain bullet on the scale and zero the balance to the weight. Then move the main poise to 50 grains and the secondary poise to 5 grains - it's off, and it's off consistently. There is really no way to fix that problem by adding weight to the pan or to the arm. The arm is mis cut.
I've ordered a new redding from the scale guy I mentioned.
LiveLife
Member
If the arm was miscut then I would contact the manufacturer of the scale for replacement/warranty work.John3921 said:
We often hear manufacturers servicing/replacing older reloading equipment even though warranty had expired or equipment well used/damaged by reloaders.
Same here. Had to finally get bifocals and currently on my 4th pair of progressives (thank goodness my eye doctor shoots, even with a Glock).Shaq said:
I like using beam scale and have it mounted at eye level on my bench. I also have a big flat screen TV mounted on the wall of the reloading room and plan to use a video camera to display the beam scale pointer on the TV if/when eyes get more tired. In the meantime, I use it as secondary monitor for the laptop.
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ArchAngelCD
Member.
I also like using a beam z c ale especially for verifying charge weights. When I do small batches of test ammo where I change the charge weight every 5 or 10 cases I use a digital scale for speed. I do check the first and last charge of each weight change on the beam scale. Amazingly enough even my inexpensive Hornady GS-1500 is usually spot on.
Ironicaintit
Member
I use a Lyman D-7 for most everything.
I have a low end Hornady electronic scale, too, but the more weight I add to it, the more inaccurate the reading gets.
So, I use it to check components for consistency in weight, but not to actually see how much something weighs.
I have a low end Hornady electronic scale, too, but the more weight I add to it, the more inaccurate the reading gets.
So, I use it to check components for consistency in weight, but not to actually see how much something weighs.
OilyPablo
Member
I bought the RCBS small digital scale. It seems really cheaply made, to the point of being a rather expensive, small hunk of junk. But dang it, it keeps on working. It settles rapidly and very precise and accurate, no matter which check weight I test it with.
Two drawbacks:
The initial zeroing process is a bit drawn out. Don't lose the manual.
It's a little expensive.
Seems pretty delicate.
Battery life isn't great. Just use the 120V power supply.
Two drawbacks:
The initial zeroing process is a bit drawn out. Don't lose the manual.
It's a little expensive.
Seems pretty delicate.
Battery life isn't great. Just use the 120V power supply.
sugarmaker
Member
A nice thing about electronic is it can easily be set up under a powder measure/trickler using a pill bottle (think deep scale pan, keeps powder from flying out). I can create .1 gr accurate charges of about any weight in under 6 seconds. Much harder on the beam scale as the pan moves and the beam/pan hanger are in the way and nothing can touch them. Plus powder wants to fly out of the pan. Hard to get the pan in / out through all of the hardware on that setup. Just avoid the cheap digital ones with auto off... Scale always seems to be off which is annoying. Ok for range use. Check weight is a must.
OilyPablo
Member
Ha I thought I was the only one who had this problem. Good idea on the pill bottle. Good thing when I first started loading - I put the scale on a large white tray and see the grains of powder scattering.
G11354
Member
I have and RCBS 502 beam scale and am very pleased with it, personally I prefer the simplicity of a beam type scale over the electronic scales. In the end it really boils down to personal preference, either style of scale will likely serve you well.
balderclev
Member
I have a Gempro 250. It works very well but still will still drift a bit at times probably due to the lights in my reloading area and not enough warmup time.
I always check with a test weight at startup. I check every 10th round of handgun loads. On rifle loads, I check every load. Before i put the pan on it I glance at the weight to see if it matches the pan weight (negative weight of course). This verifies that it has not drifted.
I always check with a test weight at startup. I check every 10th round of handgun loads. On rifle loads, I check every load. Before i put the pan on it I glance at the weight to see if it matches the pan weight (negative weight of course). This verifies that it has not drifted.
acechanley
Member
For my 308 and 708 I was weighing each charge then started using my Lee attachment that gives a constant volume of powder (forget what they call it) Will weigh the first 4-5 then weigh every 10 th load. Good consistency in velocity when I use my chrony. Only trick is to hang a fabric softener sheet (1/2 inch wide strip) to minimize static electricity. Do the same thing for my progressive shotgun reloading. Poor mans high volume reloading.
Ace
Ace
gojones
Member
Gempro-300
I was searching the prices of the GemPro 250 and noticed a GemPro 300 for the first time. http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/my-weigh-gempro-300.html
Other websites were in the UK. This seems to be an improved 250. Has anybody used this model yet. I see many good reviews on the 250 but nothing yet on this 300. I have used a beam scale forever and was still researching a digital scale.
I was searching the prices of the GemPro 250 and noticed a GemPro 300 for the first time. http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/my-weigh-gempro-300.html
Other websites were in the UK. This seems to be an improved 250. Has anybody used this model yet. I see many good reviews on the 250 but nothing yet on this 300. I have used a beam scale forever and was still researching a digital scale.
LiveLife
Member
They all seem to be effected by electronic interference as they are sold with electronic interference suppressor?
And Brian Enos who sells the same Gem Pro 250 doesn't suggest the scale if intended to be used with batteries only? - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=10194365#post10194365
And Brian Enos who sells the same Gem Pro 250 doesn't suggest the scale if intended to be used with batteries only? - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=10194365#post10194365
LiveLife
Member
Are you using the Dillon digital scale with AC adapter or batteries?
The electronic interference suppressor apparently attaches to the 110v power cord.
So if you are using batteries, you should be OK?
With so many positive reviews, I have considered buying the Gem Pro 250 scale so I am curious.
The electronic interference suppressor apparently attaches to the 110v power cord.
So if you are using batteries, you should be OK?
With so many positive reviews, I have considered buying the Gem Pro 250 scale so I am curious.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
I have an old RCBS digital sitting here, actually made by PACT.
This scale is about 20 years plus old and still works great. The scale is powered by an external wall wart by AC power to the scale rather than DC. The wall wart is labeled I/P 120 V AC 60 Hz 5 W, O/P 12 V AC 500 mA. I have a small 18" fluorescent lamp beside it, within a few feet. Old fluorescent fixture with a slide switch. When turning the lamp on or off I get a "jump" on the scale display but that is it and my guess is that jump or flutter is merely an AC switching transient through the line voltage to the wall wart since lamp and scale are on the same line. Beyond the switching glitches the scale works fine beside the lamp.
Ron
This scale is about 20 years plus old and still works great. The scale is powered by an external wall wart by AC power to the scale rather than DC. The wall wart is labeled I/P 120 V AC 60 Hz 5 W, O/P 12 V AC 500 mA. I have a small 18" fluorescent lamp beside it, within a few feet. Old fluorescent fixture with a slide switch. When turning the lamp on or off I get a "jump" on the scale display but that is it and my guess is that jump or flutter is merely an AC switching transient through the line voltage to the wall wart since lamp and scale are on the same line. Beyond the switching glitches the scale works fine beside the lamp.
Ron
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Yes, when running on batteries the scale is line isolated. Meaning if the scale's electronics have proper shielding from EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference) the scale should work fine. This of course barring some gigantic EMP (Electro Magnetic Pulse) in which case it won't matter because we will have other things to worry about or we will all be dead.
Ron
Wreck-n-Crew
Member
Check weights are as important as the scales to me. I backup my electronic scale with a beam scale if any inconsistency in throws occur.
I use a $40 MTM and as many times as i have checked it against the beam scale, it weighs true.
I keep batteries fresh and replace them 4 times a year and rotate the old stock to a tv remote.
Granted i load pistol calibers only at the moment. But if it is true to the beam its good enough for what I'm producing.
I use a $40 MTM and as many times as i have checked it against the beam scale, it weighs true.
I keep batteries fresh and replace them 4 times a year and rotate the old stock to a tv remote.
Granted i load pistol calibers only at the moment. But if it is true to the beam its good enough for what I'm producing.
My Dillon and RCBS have adapters for AC. If you get the RCBS scale, you can add the auto dispenser at a later date. I am very happy with the Chargemaster Combo. It's great if you load a lot of rifle. Pistol I just dump.
I changed out the magnetic ballasts for electronic on my old 4' fluorescent fixtures. Went from the F40 to T8 lamps.
I changed out the magnetic ballasts for electronic on my old 4' fluorescent fixtures. Went from the F40 to T8 lamps.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Today I load with the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Powder Scale and Dispenser Combo and to say I like it would be an understatement.
I still have my Lyman M5 though and the above pictured RCBS scale. Loading .223 Remington or .308 Winchester is a dream with the Chargemaster. Ron
W.E.G.
Member
I've been using the same Lyman beam scale since 1985.
I take good care of it. Even store it in the original box.
I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds.
A good micrometer powder measure is your friend.
Once you've weighed a particular lot of powder once, you make a note of the setting for the powder measure, and you don't have to mess with the scale again unless you decide to change the load. After a while, you'll find tried and true loads for your guns. There is much less need for scales once you've mastered that.
I still break out the scale and weigh one or two charges at the outset of any loading session. Just to triple-check that I didn't screw-up the micrometer on the measure. I don't worry if the beam doesn't settle completely perfect. I lock-down the micrometer, and soldier on.
Some people spend large amounts of money on elaborate scales, and powder-pouring devices. I don't see the need.
I have yet to find any reason to "trickle" individual charges. Maybe when I start shooting 198's and 199's on a regular basis, I'll try that trickling thing to get that extra one point. Until then, 95% of my points lost at the 600 yard line are due to lack of physical capacity, or lack of mental capacity. That technical 5% means nothing to me in that context.
I take good care of it. Even store it in the original box.
I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds.
A good micrometer powder measure is your friend.
Once you've weighed a particular lot of powder once, you make a note of the setting for the powder measure, and you don't have to mess with the scale again unless you decide to change the load. After a while, you'll find tried and true loads for your guns. There is much less need for scales once you've mastered that.
I still break out the scale and weigh one or two charges at the outset of any loading session. Just to triple-check that I didn't screw-up the micrometer on the measure. I don't worry if the beam doesn't settle completely perfect. I lock-down the micrometer, and soldier on.
Some people spend large amounts of money on elaborate scales, and powder-pouring devices. I don't see the need.
I have yet to find any reason to "trickle" individual charges. Maybe when I start shooting 198's and 199's on a regular basis, I'll try that trickling thing to get that extra one point. Until then, 95% of my points lost at the 600 yard line are due to lack of physical capacity, or lack of mental capacity. That technical 5% means nothing to me in that context.
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