Dear erik65,
If you are at all considering a j-frame, grab for the 340pd. Here's the skinny:
-Since it's made to shoot .357, it'll be more durable that it's .38special counterpart. Use jacketed .38s to reduce fouling.
-Has a flame shield to avoid flame cutting on the top strap. Look closely, it's a little stainless thingy
-The aluminum alloy it's made of is stronger than the regular aluminum of the normal airweights.
-You have the option of .357. Your around-the-town gun becomes an around-the-woods gun. I'd recommend 158 grain seeing that these don't have as much snap in recoil which will reduce wear on you and the gun and keep the bullets from unseating. The lighter the .357 round, the snappier the recoil.
-Sights are slightly better that it's airweight counterpart.
***Recommend the hammerless, seeing that this is a close up gun, a scrapper-type gun. If the human or animal is on top of you, you want a hammerless revolver for the many reasons that will dawn upon you with a moment's thought.
-dry fire lots. It will condition you and let the piece smooth out a bit
-Clean it only with hoppes, then lightly oil especially in the grooved ejector rod tip
As for finish? Well, this would be simple a cosmetic thing seeing that titanium and aluminum are tough against the elements.
-This piece can and will follow you in just about 99% of the situations you'll find yourself in. It's not great at anything, except weight and concealment, but 'it'll do' in alot of situations.
-Lots of options for grips if you're uncomfortable shooting the heavy stuff through it. The recoil is bad in .357 but perfectly doable. If not you have a hell-for-stout .38 that weights in at 12oz and will follow you everywhere.
-paco