Who here has shot an S&W 340PD? (Airweight .357)
- Thread starter Joe Link
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My personal preference in is to train with the ammo I carry with.
Everything is a trade off. For me, I prefer the greater control and lower muzzle flash of .38 +P over .357 magnum (especially in an Airlite).
But, I certainly would not try to argue someone out of carrying with magnums if that works for them.
"I have a 360PD and when I first shot it with the original grips it had a tendency to snap causing the trigger guard to hit the trigger finger causing a painful situation. ..."
Yes, that 'situation' is called a cut trigger finger for me.
After putting new grips on the gun, I want to try more ammunition. Dry firing the gun extensively, the 360PD is now locked up tight as a drum, with a cylinder that won't open, and a gun that won't cock. 100 rounds, and a ton of dry firing on empty cases, and the gun locks up????
I'm going to find out if this is due to the lock, prior to having S&W, or my local gunsmith fix it.
Others have suggested pulling the locking mech on these guns, and, I said it would never happen to me, so, I'll leave it alone.
I'm having serious second thoughts about it, and, I may ask S&W for a full refund, since I consider a SD firearm, with a lock that can make the gun not function, unfit for it's intended purpose, voiding the 'Implied Warranty' that the firearm is suited for it's intended purpose...
S
Yes, that 'situation' is called a cut trigger finger for me.
After putting new grips on the gun, I want to try more ammunition. Dry firing the gun extensively, the 360PD is now locked up tight as a drum, with a cylinder that won't open, and a gun that won't cock. 100 rounds, and a ton of dry firing on empty cases, and the gun locks up????
I'm going to find out if this is due to the lock, prior to having S&W, or my local gunsmith fix it.
Others have suggested pulling the locking mech on these guns, and, I said it would never happen to me, so, I'll leave it alone.
I'm having serious second thoughts about it, and, I may ask S&W for a full refund, since I consider a SD firearm, with a lock that can make the gun not function, unfit for it's intended purpose, voiding the 'Implied Warranty' that the firearm is suited for it's intended purpose...
S
gbran
Member
My .454 Super Redhawk hurts to shoot, but the .357 titanium I had seemed to bite a lot harder. Not quite the push of the .454, but a lot snappier. I sold it.
double0757
Member
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2005
- Messages
- 49
Locked up 360pd
Socrates: Looks like you got an ejector rod coming unscrew while the cylinder was closed. This happen to me on my 340pd. Try to pry the ejector rod of the lower front barrel log. When it opens, unscrew the ejector rod (careful with the springs) and put some locktite and screw back up. It should work fine for many years. I also was skeptical about the gun, now I trust my life to it. Double O
Socrates: Looks like you got an ejector rod coming unscrew while the cylinder was closed. This happen to me on my 340pd. Try to pry the ejector rod of the lower front barrel log. When it opens, unscrew the ejector rod (careful with the springs) and put some locktite and screw back up. It should work fine for many years. I also was skeptical about the gun, now I trust my life to it. Double O
Cousin Mike
Member
I've shot the 340PD w/some pretty hot Remington 125 grain .357 Mag loads. I actually liked it, and thought it managed the recoil very well to be so light. I seem to be in the minority when it comes to the airweight guns... I really like them. They can be a handful with full power loads, but never once has this translated into pain for me. After a few cylinders though, I start to get tired.
I wouldn't recommend one for a range gun, but for a concealed carry piece, I think they're great. If you ever need to use it, the last thing on your mind will be recoil or muzzle flip, and you'll probably be within a few feet of whoever you're shooting at. You need to present and fire ASAP - and it doesn't get much faster than 2 to the chest point blank from a pocket-carried J-frame.
Massad Ayoob did just that on Personal Defense TV not long ago, and I gotta admit - I was impressed with the speed in which he did it. He also said "The fastest draw is one where your hand is already on the gun." Pocket carry + airweight =
Let's just say, I am now a believer.
I wouldn't recommend one for a range gun, but for a concealed carry piece, I think they're great. If you ever need to use it, the last thing on your mind will be recoil or muzzle flip, and you'll probably be within a few feet of whoever you're shooting at. You need to present and fire ASAP - and it doesn't get much faster than 2 to the chest point blank from a pocket-carried J-frame.
Massad Ayoob did just that on Personal Defense TV not long ago, and I gotta admit - I was impressed with the speed in which he did it. He also said "The fastest draw is one where your hand is already on the gun." Pocket carry + airweight =
Let's just say, I am now a believer.
Tifosi
Member
I carry one and have put more than 300 rounds of 142gr. thru it. The stock grips leave the backstrap exposed if you change them it a lot easier on your hand. I have Crimson Trace LG-405's , they cover the backstrap and have a air shock chamber on them. They make the weapon much more comfortable.
But when all is said and done, this is not a range gun and it is an excellent SD weapon. If you want a range gun go get a 627 or a 686.
But when all is said and done, this is not a range gun and it is an excellent SD weapon. If you want a range gun go get a 627 or a 686.
The recoil is tolerable. I have pachmyar compac professionals (they are smaller than compacs) on mine and I shoot 38+P's, the Speer snubbie loads. They have a very manageable recoil.
I shot 158gr 357 mags and the recoil was a little stiff. Possibly difficult to get good follow ups if you were trying to shoot quickly one handed.
It is nicer to carry than a 642 and recoil is fine if you shoot the same ammo you would through a 642.
I should try the Speer 357's but I just haven't got around to it. I trust the 38+P's anyway.
I plan on selling my 642 soon.
I shot 158gr 357 mags and the recoil was a little stiff. Possibly difficult to get good follow ups if you were trying to shoot quickly one handed.
It is nicer to carry than a 642 and recoil is fine if you shoot the same ammo you would through a 642.
I should try the Speer 357's but I just haven't got around to it. I trust the 38+P's anyway.
I plan on selling my 642 soon.
Better yet, 617 for 10-rounds of 22 fun. I have one and it feels very close to my 4-inch 686 with mild 38s.
If you save just 15c per round, it will pay off in about 4,000 rounds, discounting the actual wear and tear on 686. Also, you can shoot 22s into a bullet trap - which makes it possible to practice in one's backyard without throwing a lot of lead into envirionment.
miko
My first self defence handgun I bought for concealed carry was the 340 PD....dumb move. I shot full size .357 revolvers a few times and thought it would have just a little more recoil...wrong. It has a little more recoil than a Charter Arms bulldog shooting .44 special. It is loud, has a lot of flash in the indoor ranges, and good bit of recoil, but most shooters could shoot it if their lives depended on it. Its just not an all day at the range type of gun.
Honestly if your looking an airlite .38, you might as well get the .357. It is a pain to clean the cylinders when you shoot a lot of .38 rounds thru it but it functions just like a .38 revolver but gives you the option to shoot .357. I have my 340 in my safe loaded with .38s but I have a speedloader loaded with .357 for that 1 in the million chance that I'll need to shoot .357 thru it in a defensive situation.
Honestly if your looking an airlite .38, you might as well get the .357. It is a pain to clean the cylinders when you shoot a lot of .38 rounds thru it but it functions just like a .38 revolver but gives you the option to shoot .357. I have my 340 in my safe loaded with .38s but I have a speedloader loaded with .357 for that 1 in the million chance that I'll need to shoot .357 thru it in a defensive situation.
People seem to forget the 340 pd is not for "range shooting". If this is what you want a gun for, DO not get the 340 pd. If you do want a gun that is SUPER CONCEALABLE and SUPER LIGHT then get it. It is a chore to shoot. A lot of dryfire and practice with .38's, with a few 357's just to be sure that its there when you need it. The "defense" loads are not so bad as the regular 357 loads.
On a side note- Crimson Trace makes laser sights for this - AND WHETHER OR NOT YOU USE THE LASER- it has a "recoil reducing" backstrap.
I love that I can throw this gun into my pocket and if I feel threatened i dont need to BRANDISH. Its in my hand and pointed in the appropriate direction!
On a side note- Crimson Trace makes laser sights for this - AND WHETHER OR NOT YOU USE THE LASER- it has a "recoil reducing" backstrap.
I love that I can throw this gun into my pocket and if I feel threatened i dont need to BRANDISH. Its in my hand and pointed in the appropriate direction!
Jiminy Christmas
You know, a good hot +P .38special round will do the job for self defense. And won't kill your hands shooting it. I have an airweight (not the scandium) and the +P loads are lively but don't hurt to shoot (which means I don't mind practicing with it and therefore can get/stay good with it).
No way I'd inflict a .357 scandium snubbie on myself.
Springmom
Carbon_15
Member
I had a 360pd (same, but with an exposed hammer). I have shot it with full-house 125's and it is excruciating. Not uncomfortable...downright painfull. I carried it with medium velocity .357's (golden saber) and it was tolerable. Most people who asked to shoot it with .357's handed it back with 3-4 round left in the chambers.
After a shooting session I would have a whelp on the top of the web of my hand from the hammer digging in and my elbow would ache for a day. I tried using a leather shooting glove, but after the first shot it ripped the thumb seam out from the gun torquing.
After a shooting session I would have a whelp on the top of the web of my hand from the hammer digging in and my elbow would ache for a day. I tried using a leather shooting glove, but after the first shot it ripped the thumb seam out from the gun torquing.
Tifosi
Member
Quote
Chipp
"A question..the crimson trace laser grips..are there different ones? I believe I'm getting a pair from santa. Only saw one style on the S&W wesite for j frame."
When I bought mine they had three models for J frames LG-205 Hard Polymer, LG-305 Soft and LG-405 Soft with an Air Channel over the back strap. I bought the 405's, they work, I have never tried the other two models. The soft models do not stick to your clothes like Hogues.
Chipp
"A question..the crimson trace laser grips..are there different ones? I believe I'm getting a pair from santa. Only saw one style on the S&W wesite for j frame."
When I bought mine they had three models for J frames LG-205 Hard Polymer, LG-305 Soft and LG-405 Soft with an Air Channel over the back strap. I bought the 405's, they work, I have never tried the other two models. The soft models do not stick to your clothes like Hogues.
JMusic
member
OOOOOUCH!!!
jIM
jIM
I had a quick question for those of you who have shot a 340 w/ .357 magnum loads.
I have a 340 and have put 4-5 cylinder's of .357 in rapid fire through it at the range. While it was a handful and a little painful, it wasn't THAT bad.
For those of you who have also shot other big bore revolvers, how does the 340 w/.357 compare to say, the .454 Casull? I'm needing to pickup a trail gun for backpacking in NW Wyoming (grizzly country). I've been looking into a Ruger Alaskan in .454 Casull (41oz, 2.5" barrel) and loading it up with 325gr or 360gr cast loads from Buffalo Bore.
Any comparison between the 340 and a similar weight .454 Casull with dinosaur loads would be great! I'm basically trying to figure out if I'll be able to handle the 41oz .454 Alaskan w/full power loads.
Buffalo Bore velocities out of the Ruger .454 Alaskan & 9.5" SRH:
325gr 1318fps (2.5" barrel); 1525fps (9.5" barrel)
360gr 1219fps (2.5" barrel); 1425fps (9.5" barrel)
I have a 340 and have put 4-5 cylinder's of .357 in rapid fire through it at the range. While it was a handful and a little painful, it wasn't THAT bad.
For those of you who have also shot other big bore revolvers, how does the 340 w/.357 compare to say, the .454 Casull? I'm needing to pickup a trail gun for backpacking in NW Wyoming (grizzly country). I've been looking into a Ruger Alaskan in .454 Casull (41oz, 2.5" barrel) and loading it up with 325gr or 360gr cast loads from Buffalo Bore.
Any comparison between the 340 and a similar weight .454 Casull with dinosaur loads would be great! I'm basically trying to figure out if I'll be able to handle the 41oz .454 Alaskan w/full power loads.
Buffalo Bore velocities out of the Ruger .454 Alaskan & 9.5" SRH:
325gr 1318fps (2.5" barrel); 1525fps (9.5" barrel)
360gr 1219fps (2.5" barrel); 1425fps (9.5" barrel)
JMusic
member
Recoil reminded me of shooting a Raging Bull in 454, maybe slightly less. My opinion is you will end up stoking it with +P 38's and if thats the case you might as well look at them their much cheaper.
Jim
Jim
JMusic
member
I'm sorry professor you've lost me. If you are refering to them, I'm talking 38 special revolvers vs 357's. I chose a Smith 357 for about 700 bucks. The Store owner talked me out of the purchase because of recoil and instead sold me a 638 for about half price. That is what I mean by much cheaper.
If you are refering to them, I'm talking 38 special revolvers vs 357's. I chose a Smith 357 for about 700 bucks. The Store owner talked me out of the purchase because of recoil and instead sold me a 638 for about half price. That is what I mean by much cheaper.- Status
