Benellie Nova - Choke tube gets stuck

[JonB]

Anybody else have a problem with a choke tube getting stuck (I mean really stuck) in the barrel? I was using a Modified with Steel 2 shot for ducks this year . Went to clean the gun and couldn't get the choke tube out - finally got some big pliers and pulled it out (gently enough not to bend, scratch, mar, etc, etc the gun or the choke). I have 3 chokes with the gun and 2 of the 3 drop in and and thread fine. This problematic one is really tight going back it, but once it gets to a certain point, it threads in fine. Gun and chokes are new (used 1 season for ducks).

Any thoughts? New choke time?

 

[redneck2]

go to the website for Tru-Lock chokes. They talk about chokes freezing in.

IIRC....steel shot hammers the tube pretty hard and tends to distort the threads.

Make sure the choke is tight when installed. Check often.

Use a real good lube on the threads. Oil is not adequate. Grease or anti-sieze.

If you've been hunting in the rain or the threads have gotten soaked, remove and reinstall

 

[JonB]

thanks for the site.

My threads on the choke are fine - in fact threading in and out isn't a problem. Choke is just really right until the threads are almost flush with the tip of the barrel - then fine. I know the choke was fine when I first put it in because I was switching between Imp Cyl and Mod.

I may end up getting a good after market choke for my waterfowl trips.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

I think a good shot of grease will fix it.

If not, then see if you can send the choke back for another one.

 

[kirbythegunsmith]

typical problems

I have seen many conditions present that can cause entry/exit problems for chokes. The situation that you describe seems to point to a defect in the thread area that causes a bind for much of the travel.
Sometimes a problem in the hole can cause a similar condition since it may force the tube to one side if there is a burr at the muzzle edge, for example.
If a tube is out of kilter, it may force the material to flex under tension until it clears a tight spot in the hole, and the one tube is far enough out of spec to uncover the condition.

I do not have faith in the factory installations of choke tubes since there have been too many examples in my shop for poor patterning and incorrect point of impact. Barrels that shoot off (worst personal example seen- 11" high @ 19 yards) cause uncounted disappointment, and my cure for such examples starts with a hacksaw and ends with a new straight choke hole installation.
A shorter barrel with a straight choke has got to be better than a longer barrel with a crooked choke. I figure that anybody that fails to understand that concept is beyond help, by me, at least.

I have seen and removed pounded chokes that were severely damaged by steel shot, and have converted many barrels (including classic shotguns) to safely and effectively perform with steel shot. Plenty of the shooters have told me that their buddies won't let them shoot first, anymore, and make them be the clean-up man, since their gun now has the longest effective range (after being modified).

I will add this one note, that your tubes all probably have small leftover burrs around the wrench notches. Every barrel that comes in my shop will typically get inspected for tube defects, at minimum. Many tubes have residual rollover burrs from the slotting cuts and can have parts of those burrs present in the thread area, or the barrel threads can contain thread burrs.


See the attached pictures.
One shows a rough spot and raised bit in the barrel threads.
Two shows leftover notch burrs and rough threads.
Three shows the internal notch burrs.

I hope this information adds to everybody's knowledge base.

[email protected]
Shotgun and choke specialist, trained gunsmith

 

[redneck2]

FWIW...I got a Tru-Lock for my 10 gauge turkey gun. Patterns it throws are unbelievable

Everybody that's a serious shotgunner should read their site just for the info

 

[sm]

Stick the barrel in a chest freezer.

Take a battery operated drill, chuck up cleaning rod with bronze brush with a piece of Finest Grit of Scotchbrite [tm] pad around it.
Clean chamber and bore really well and fast. ALWAYS do this with choke installed...yours is stuck...

Blast with Brake cleaner. Now use Ballistol [tm] or Deep Creep [tm] which is aerosol version of Seafoam [tm] (or just use the Seafoam) These will penetrate, and protect inside of barrel.

Wipe down exterior with RIG [Rust Inhibiting Grease] Stick in freezer. It may take a few days, additional Ballistol/ Deep Creep, tries, more exposure to freezer, but I have unstuck choke tubes and stuck bullets in barrels.

I have never personally had a choke get stuck. I use RIG+P, my preference, and STOS (distributed by Ponsess Warren) and..."whatever handy" from NAPA Lithium grease to just plain RIG, to Browning Gun in a Tin, Winchester Gun oil in a Tin , Dexron II Transmission fluid [best kept secret for gun lube btw] to...

I "snug".

I hate internal choke tubes. I prefer external knurled choke tubes.

My '74 SX1, I sent a mod barrel to NU-Line in and had External Knurled Chokes installed. I was competing and using/ would use this gun and this barrel for everything. Steel Shot proof and all that.
Gun has ~ 300,000 rds thru it, mostly with this barrel and Nu-Line Chokes. SX1 still runs and never malfunctions...never has!

I "snug" with fingers only. I have fired steel shot [cuss stupid non-tox reg] to slugs to best guess 35,000 rds in one year alone through this gun...Nu-Line chokes - same original ones.

I HATE internal chokes!

Screw in chokes have a place - honest? I would just as soon have fixed choked barrels. In my opinion, folks are too focused on equipment and not shooting. Screw in chokes do allow versatility - then again back in my day folks learned to shoot, use a pattern board, tweak gun fit and loadings to fell what needed felling.
We knew/ know how to 'stack loads' - meaning how to get a fixed Mod barrel to throw a IC or dang near Skeet Pattern...

Folks miss today, blame the equipment, Change Choke [Choke changers with battery operated choke tube wrenches] bolt on more crap onto a gun, take stuff off a gun, buy another gun...

Personally - LOTs of us prefer a fixed choke barrel. We get a bit ticked when folks "whack" off a great barrel to make shorter - they have no friggin idea what they just screwed up.

Factory Choke tubes: the Winchoke is a GREAT choke tube. Beretta's are as well. At least they were smart to make them external and knurled.


Stick it in the Freezer. Be patient, use the penetrates, and do not wrench down, just "finger snug" , check more frequent, and keep something on the threads.

Warning : STOS is that slick! Do NOT apply with fingers, use a cotton swab, anything. Best to do this before you hit the range, you do not want this STOS on your fingers/hands handling a Gun.
Ditto for Ballistol. You don't want to be handling a slick gun. These old products are still best.

Bring back Fixed Choked barrels like they used to do ...Please!