Best affordable tactical style rings?

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unwise11

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I want a set of rings I can easily remove (with the scope in them) without having to totally re zero my rifle, my Warne rings are great, but a Pain when I take them off, I was thinking Leupold QRW, but they have to hit the Leupold 2 Piece QRW base I already have.. So are leupold rings my only option, or would a Picatinny style work?
I plan on taking the scope off of the rifle, but I want the scope to stay in the rings, and just be able to torque the rings back onto the base..
So they have to have a (lug?) that mounts to the base, and then not have to loosen the scope.
Thanks, - J.D.
 
Weaver and burris make some cheap stuff that works pretty well that may be worth a look. Larue makes some good stuff, but it is quite pricey.

I am sure the leupold is good as well.

I run picatinny whenever I can. Most of the rings I have had torque down on the scope, and then have a separate nut to attach to the base. SOO, I can just release the rings from the rifle and keep the scope tight. When I want to put it back on, I can just re attach the rings. It isnt a real QD mount really, but its better than many other ways lol. I do have to rezero the weapon though.

Hope this helps
 
If you like Warne, they make a QD model in both 1" amd 30mm sizes. They do a pretty decent job to returning to zero. Another good economical choice would be TPS.
 
Alright, thanks for the suggestions, I Looked at warne, the Quick detach standard is about 50 bucks, and the Tactical set, is about 100.. :scrutiny:
I'm not sure if the base is Picatinny capable, I mean, the warne fits in there fine, and Does the difference matter a whole bunch if you torque the rings?
The burris Xtreme tactical seems nice, But I don't know if it would work with the base I have..
And the Leupold are the fallback I guess.
And the Weaver "Six Hole tactical seems too cheap to be steel, I mean, I'm willing to pay the 50 bucks for steel, rather than 25 for aluminum that might have trouble, I have learned rings and bases are very important on a rifle, I don't mind having to change a few clicks in my scope, but I want to be on paper at 100 yards, if I mount them back the same way..
Thanks- JD.
 
Ahhh, those seem perfect, but the cost is a little high but I might just have to come up with it somehow.. :banghead:
I can't decide between those and the Leupold QRW rings.. so many good reviews... :scrutiny:
Thanks.

Edit, would the Aluminum TPS rings be good? they are a good bit cheaper, and the Steel is a bit over my price range.
 
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Warne QD's. I use them on all my rifles and swap them around often. They are excellent for returning to zero. IMHO, they look tactical enough without being ungainly. You don't need the heavy duty tactical rings unless you're humping through the Afghanistan mountains. Practically speaking, you're better off with a high quality standard steel ring than a cheap tactical ring.
 
I very highly recommend the Warne Tactical one piece base (rail) and the Leupold QRW rings. I have this setup on one of my rifles and it shines as an example of quality, modern American manufacturing. You can go as low as the objective bell allows. I like medium rings.
 
Edit, would the Aluminum TPS rings be good? they are a good bit cheaper, and the Steel is a bit over my price range.

JDM,

The purpose of heavy duty tactical rings is to be able to take abuse, not to reduce weight or save you a couple bucks. If you want tactical rings, then you pony up the price. If it makes you feel any better, take a look at what Badger tactical rings sell for. Oh, and your next purchase is a Seekonk torque tool.

Don
 
JD, the Leupold mount you have uses Weaver spacing which is smaller than 1913. It will not accept 1913 rings. You'll need to replace it first if you want to do things right.

When you do, ARMS #22 throw levers will get you back to zero everytime and can be removed and installed without tools. The LaRue mounts are another excellent option.
 
Actually the UTG from Leapers are not specifically "air gun" rings but are pretty good rings for general use. I have a set that seems to be very repeatable for my FN/FAL and my Dad is using a set in 30mm for a scout scope on a Marlin 336.
 
I understand there are better rings than what I can afford, but I can't buy a 100 dollar base, and a set of 100 dollar rings, to put my 160 dollar Nikon in..
Thanks for the reccomendations guys, I have narrowed it down to either the TPS steel Weaver type rings, or The Leupold QRW rings.
 
Maybe a dumb question on my part, but why do you want to take off your scope? I have steel Warne Maxima rings on two rifles, and they don't move, and are very good quality rings. Once you get it mounted, theres no need to take it back off all the time, unless your swapping it between rifles. Then your rezeroing it all the time. Get your base mounted correctly, and mount the scope correctly, and forget about it;)
 
Get your base mounted correctly, and mount the scope correctly, and forget about it

If you do the above, no need to troubleshoot:) Its your money, but would be better spent on a case trimmer.
 
I like to be able to take my scope off to trouble shoot and clean without having to completely remount it..

:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

JD, you wouldn't listen in your other, similar threadhttp://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=567712, when you posted this;

Oh, I'm not planning on taking it off a whole bunch, but if it gets wet or dirty I will, and I have enough PMC left for about 4 or 5 Re- zero's

But, maybe you'll listen to JDGray, since he has the same initials, when he said;

Maybe a dumb question on my part, but why do you want to take off your scope? I have steel Warne Maxima rings on two rifles, and they don't move, and are very good quality rings. Once you get it mounted, theres no need to take it back off all the time, unless your swapping it between rifles. Then your rezeroing it all the time. Get your base mounted correctly, and mount the scope correctly, and forget about it

He's right.

If your scope gets wet or dirty, just wipe it off. It's weather sealed.

You don't need to take it off, to clean it.
 
I know I'm just trying to make it easier, I don't know about you, but when working on my rifle, I find it more pleasant to do so without my scope on it.
I stripped my rifle, and got mad, because the lug in my warne ring was rattleing, and they were mounted very well, but I thought it was in my rifle, but was just the ring lug, It would've saved me alot of time and there would be a scope on my rifle right now, but nope, the scope is in the box, and the rings in a ziplock bag, because even with allignment marks, I can't mount scopes right, and I have learned, vertical split rings are a pain to mount..
So that's why I wan't a ring, that I can detach without removing the scope from the rings.
 
the lug in my warne ring was rattleing

Glad it wasn't your mount screw like you thought. When you mount the Warne rings, you are supossed to hold forward pressure on the ring as you snug the bottom screw. This takes all the slack out of it, so the recoil of the rifle doesn't have to do it. The rings are a bit of a pain to get together, but they won't twist the scope as you tighten the top screw like you get with traditional rings. Its a trade off, but easier to get right if you ask me.:)
 
I can't get it right either way ;)
I spent well over 30 minutes trying to get my scope level before giving up..
If I had gotten the rings I could take off the gun with the scope in them, I'd have no issue.
I like warne permanent rings for what they are, but I won't buy another set of permanent rings..
And I'm glad it wan't the screw in my base too, If it was that I knew something was really wrong because they have lok-tite, and never moved..
I'm still considering the Warne QD rings.
Anyway, got to get to sleep, wake up early tomorrow, and I'll try to check THR before leaving for school.
Thanks again guys.
 
I have no personal experience with these but have always had good luck with Millett rings. Might be worth a look at around $50, less if you can deal with gloss.

http://swfa.com/Millett-Grabber-1-Rings-P9390.aspx

For scope mounting, you'll need a vise of some sort, a level, string and your mounting tools. Loosly mount the scope, level the rifle in your vise,align with the string attached to the ceiling with a tack (tie a small weight to the end to keep taught), tighten screws to specified torque. You're simply leveling rifle and using a plumb bob to align the crosshairs.

Be sure to mark the scope tube with a pencil or tape so your eye relief is correct before putting it in the vise or snugging it down.

I don't advocate removing a scope any more than is necessary, I set mine up for hunting and have a back up zeroed just in case. When you spend 5k on a trip you tend to overthink everything. I also bought a second rifle, same caliber, works well with same load (got lucky there). If you're working on your rifle, I hope it's on the trigger. Practice, practice.
 
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