Best ammo choice for Enfield No 4 Mk 2?

[DavidB2]

just curious as to anyone else's experience with Enfield ammo? I have an Enfield no 4 Mk 2 (F). I bought some Heurters 180 grain soft points on sale at cabelas for $15.99. Didn't know if that round would work, or should I shoot 150 grain? I think that 174 was what the Enfield rifles originally used. Thanks for your opinions.

 

[Davek1977]

For me, Wolf steel case at about 8 bucks a box works for me, as i am generally just plinking anyway, and dont need premium ammo to do so. it actially shoots pretty well for me though

 

[DavidB2]

I wasn't sure how clean Wolf ammo is due to possible corrosive primers. Plus, I want to reload so I'll have to use brass cartridges.

 

[Davek1977]

i've never experienced corrosive priming in wolf ammo having shot it in .223, 7.62x39, and 9mm previously and .303 currently.

 

[DavidB2]

I am more concern about whether 150 or 180 grain provides the better accuracy in a .303.

 

[GooseGestapo]

I recommend the Privi Partisan as sold by Grafs shooters supply. At ~16.00/20, its the least expensive reloadable ammo on the market.
As far as accuracy, you won't likely see a difference in 150gr and 180gr. If you are hunting deer or pigs, the 150gr will be better, if moose or bear, the 180gr.
I've found that the privi meets the advertised velocities and is only exceeded in accuracy by the Hornady loaded with 174gr .312" match boattail hollow points.
The privi brass is the best available, except for the 3X more expensive Lapua.
Grafs also has $7.95,flat-rate shipping.
They also sell the Privi components, though lately, the Hornady bullets on sale at MidwayUSA has been a better deal despite their $$$ shipping rates.
My jacketed bullet load for my .303 match load (200yd CMP Vintage military rifle match @200yd) is the 150gr Hornady Spt over 47.0gr of BLC2. Shoots under 2moa. For practice, I shoot a Lee 155gr PTGC @.314" over 17.5gr #2400 at 50yds at a 3" Bullseye. If it's not in the black, it's my fault.

 

[AlexanderA]

The best military spec .303 ammo is the surplus Greek HXP headstamp. This was made mostly in the 1970's and is noncorrosive and reloadable. There were huge quantities of this available, cheaply, a couple of years ago and it can still be found on the secondary market. Avoid the Pakistani surplus. Lots of misfires.

 

[Sebastian the Ibis]

I like the Privi, I bought a bunch of it for $11/20 on sale at AIM a while ago. Nice clean accurate ammo.

 

[bihj]

174 gr. to 180 gr. has always worked best in my SMLE's.

 

[boom boom]

If you plan on reloading, you might want to slug the bore first but a tip--do not use a wood dowel to do so--brass rod and a pure lead slug of some sort is what you need to determine the size of the bore. Any competent gunsmith can also do this for you pretty cheap. While the No. 4 Mk2 was not wartime issue, Lee Enfields are noted for their sometimes generous dimensions in the chamber and bore. Sizing bullets to the bore usually gives the best accuracy. BTW, I would not spend the extra scratch to get boat tail bullets unless you have a pristine rifle--milsurp Lee's typically do better with flat based bullets.

AlexanderA is correct that the best surplus left is boxer primed Greek HXP which most resembles the famous Mk. 7 British issue ammo. I have seen some 1970's Radway Arsenal British Ammo but that is Berdan primed and not easily reloadable. You might have to go to a gunshow to get old milsurp ammo now as online it seems to have dried up at the usual places.

Personally, I use Prvi for my Lee's because it is cheaper, readily available, and I reload (I think that Cabela's Herter brand was also made by Prvi but I could be wrong) the brass. If you do reload, necksize the brass as it tends to swell a bit in the usually oversize Lee Enfield chambers.

If plinking and not reloading, the Wolf might be a good bet. Since I reload for specific rifles, checking this stuff out has not been a priority but it could be a solution if you plan on shooting it a lot. Steel cased ammo has its own issues with pros and cons that are beyond the scope of this post.

 

[DavidB2]

Very helpful info. I will try the 180 grain rounds first and see how they pattern. I just wasn't sure what grain works best for maximum accuracy. I will be living near the Ozarks in future months and won't be taking any hunting shots any further than 100-125 yards due to the iron sights and terrain.

 

[Joshua M. Smith]

Hello,

Most of the old .30 calibers are designed for heavier bullets. The Mosin-Nagant has a 1:9.5" twist, and the Lee-Enfield, 1:10".

Original Mosin loads were 212grn. Finnish accuracy loads in 7.62x53r and 54r used 200grn bullets.

Even Russian 7n1 sniper loads, while utilizing 152grn bullets, used bullets with steel cores. These were therefore longer.

The British loads were similar.

Generally, 174grn to 202grn bullets fly best from these old rifles. Much heavier than 180grn, though, sees terminal performance start to suffer, if that's a concern.

Regards,

Josh

 

[KansasSasquatch]

My experience with Enfields is limited but the PRVI is the best stuff I've shot. Winchester second, and some old mil surp stuff third. The mil surp stuff was so old that it was loaded with sticks of cordite.

 

[P5 Guy]

Generous chamber dimensions
You will find that after shooting the commercial ammunition there may be a 'stretch mark' at the head of the brass. Watch carefully and only neck size your reloads.

 

[boom boom]

BTW, avoid the S&B stuff, the brass is generally not that good nor has the accuracy been great in my experience and yes--the sights should be regulated for the 174 gr.--150 grain is a bit faster and depending on your rifle may shoot to it sights as well.

Be aware that Lee Enfields have different numbered front sights for adjusting the rifle's zero.

 

[Sunray]

"...174 was what the Enfield rifles originally..." From 1910 forward. 215 RN's before that. Anyway, it's not the weight that matters. It's the diameter. Lee-Enfields can have a groove diameter from .311" to .315" and be considered ok. Problem is that commercial hunting and target bullets are .311" or .312". Montana bullets makes some larger cast bullets though. Up to .314" as I recall. So you need to slug the barrel first. And check the headspace.
Then if you're not reloading, you'll have to try a box of as many brands as you can to find the ammo your rifle shoots best. Same as you do any other rifle.
No corrosive primers in Wolf ammo, but it's still low end stuff.
Oh and 180's have been used up here for moose for eons, Ever since the assorted companies, mostly CIL/IVI stopped making 215's over 40 years ago.

 

[desidog]

First thing is to slug the barrel. That will tell you both the groove diameter, and the number of grooves. If it's a 2-groove, it won't stabilize boat tail bullets...which can be an exercise in frustration and futility.

 

[Archie]

If I shoot factory ammo in them, it's Privi Partizan. I bought some Wolf marketed Golden Bear stuff - the box mentioned it was made in Serbia and was headstamped PPU. It chronographs rather close to the Mk VII ammo that was British issue forever (since 1910). I like that as the issue sights will work without too much guessing, ONCE you adjust the front sight for windage, then elevation at the low mark on your rifle. (300 yards comes to mind, but check.)

It planning on using it for hunting game, you'll need Soft Point bullets. The 180 grain weight are probably closest to the 174 grain for which the sights were intended. Of course, if you've already 'sporterized' it and mounted a scope, you're starting fresh.

 

[Ignition Override]

DavidB2: you realize by now that modern Wolf ammo has normal, Non-corrosive primers.

Russian-styled (modern) Berdan primers are just as clean as modern Boxer primers.
As long as your batch of Wolf wasn't manufactured over ten years ago, and was hidden away, it's fine.

 

[DavidB2]

Thanks for the update on Wolf ammo. I remember Wolf ammo back in the day.