Best brand of batteries for our toys?

Best brand of battery that DOESN'T leak?

  • Energizer

    Votes: 9 47.4%
  • Duracell

    Votes: 6 31.6%
  • Rayovac

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 4 21.1%

  • Total voters
    19
  • Poll closed .
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basicblur

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Please give your experience-I’m trying to get a handle on what batteries are the ‘best’, particularly regarding leaking.
I’m just curious if others are having the same experience as myself?

I dug into my Plano case of spare batteries today only to find ANOTHER Duracell AAA battery had leaked while in storage :banghead:-it had an expiration date of 2015.

Over the years I’ve seen a lot of places recommending Duracells (maybe they pay ‘em to recommend ‘em?), but my experience so far has been:
1. I use Energizers whenever possible (I’ve had fewer problems than any other name brand).
2. Duracells-I’ve had more than my share of ‘em leak, ‘specially no more of ‘em than I use (very bad odds/high percentage of leakers) the latest being today when fishing out a spare for one for my Streamlight Stylus.
3. Rayovac-I gave up on them long ago-a Rayovac NOT leaking seems to be the exception, not the norm-can’t tell you how many flashlights I’ve had over the years that I just tossed because of the mess they made.

Just wondering what folks in here are finding AFA dependable batteries, with an eye towards (not) leaking?
With the price of optics/flashlights these days, I’d really hate to have one leak-can’t be throwing today’s high tech stuff away like yesteryear’s cheap flashlights.

I didn’t include Streamlight, Surefire, etc batteries since I’m sure they’re made by one o’ the big battery companies.
 
was told years ago to buy any alkaline battery that was the cheapest as you will not notice if the bunny ran 2 sec longer or not.


FYI read the small print on Duracell and rayovoc. if one leaks they will fix or replace your item at no charge, i have had many things replaced by leaking batteries. so much so they send me a form to fill out for when i replace it i send the receipts in and they send me the money
 
FYI read the small print on Duracell and rayovoc. if one leaks they will fix or replace your item at no charge
I know about warranties-after all the batteries I've had leak over the years, I started checking the fine print/warranties long ago. Problem was, most of 'em required you send the damaged item back to them on your dime, and since most of my damaged items over the years were cheap plastic flashlights, it was more cost/time effective for me to just trash 'em.

With all the Streamlight LEDs, EOTechs, and pricey toys I have these days, if a battery leaks they'll definitely hear about it.

Based on my history over longer than I care to admit, I won't even consider a Rayovac (they usually go immediately into the trash), and won't buy a Duracell. The leaking Duracell I just found in my spares case obviously came with some device I bought-rather than using it, I stuck in in the spares case.
 
I've had leaks from all the alkalines but Energizer seems the least likely to do so. They also did not hassle me with the replacement. Fortunately they have a office near me (DownUnder) and they simply said go and buy a replacement and give them the bill which they promptly paid.
Duracell tried to give me advice about cleaning out the corrosion and how it wouldn't affect the flashlight operation, never mind the pitting. They were reluctant to replace but they eventually did after about 2 months. They were a call center in Phillipines AFAIR.

For critical or expensive stuff requiring AA's I now use Energizer Lithiums. Never had one leak.
 
i have an old metal detector my uncle had stashed away for years with batterers in it that have leaked, think ill send it to them and see what happens, i know it wont be fixed and is too old to replace, so will they just stroke a check for a cheep one on the marker now days, that would be OK with me also.

guess all i would be out is postage
 
Another plus? for Energizer-I've been accumulating quite a number of toys over the last few years that take CR123 batteries-Energizer has an expiration date stamped on 'em-I could find no date on either my Surefire or Streamlight CR123's. I think I read online that one of 'em had a date code stamped on 'em, but why should I have to figure out a code (and is that produced on or use by?)-just put an easy to see/read expiration date on 'em!
Any of you folks using CR123's-they don't list it any longer at Botach Tactical, but I bought a Pelican 1010 Micro Case with a foam insert pre-cut for 15 CR123 batteries-looks like you now have to go searching for the pre-cut foam inserts on your own?

None of the below applies AFA lights, EOTechs etc as I use only disposables in them, but..
I'm sure some of you have read of folks buying 9v batteries and cutting 'em open to get 6 AAA's and getting 32 AA's by doing the same to a 6v battery (there seems to be some question 'bout how legit this is). Now I am a cheap SOB, but are AA/AAA's really that expensive?. :scrutiny:
It ain't all good on the Energizer front (before I get accused of being an Energizer fan boy!)-I also read the other day that Energizer D cell rechargeables basically have an AA battery in 'em-think you check the D cell's rating and it's the same mAh as an AA battery, but at a whale of a price difference! I use AA and AAA Energizer rechargeables, but haven't been able to bring myself to cough up the BIG money for D cell rechargeables-after seeing that article, mebbe that's a good thing?

BTW-I see Sanyo makes a C/D cell adapter-you use their Eneloop AA batteries, stuff 'em in their cell adapters, and you have C/D cell rechargeables on the cheap? I hear good things 'bout Sanyo Eneloops, but so far I have none.

Just a heads up if you use Energizer rechargeables-in the AA units, go for the lower (2300 mAh rating)-they work MUCH better than the 2500 mAh units they were selling (my experience as well). They have both a greater number of recharge cycles, and they discharge in low power applications MUCH slower than the 2500 mAh units.
 
I am an electronics design engineer who works in aerospace electronics design. One of our customers in the past has been NASA. They were very, very strict about what types of materials can be used on the space station - especially batteries, since they can leak corrosive chemicals and that's really bad in the closed environment of a space capsule. The preferred battery for reliability, longevity, and safety/non-venting of contents is the Energizer L91 and L92 type lithium iron disulfide batteries. The commercial versions of these are known as the energizer "e squared" photo lithium AA and AAA cells. Lockheed did some testing on these cells and you can find it on NASA's website:

http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20030112597_2003133523.pdf

These have 10 year shelf life, higher capacity than AA alkalines especially under high load conditions, and they do not vent their contents. They are not rechargeable, and they are expensive.

If you want rechargeable, I would go with the aforementioned low self discharge nickel metal hydride cells such as the Sanyo eneloop. Regular NiMH batteries will go dead in no time due to high self discharge. In the lab when we are testing products that are to be used in final deployment with energizer L91/L92 batteries, we frequently use Sanyo Eneloops in their place since discharge characteristics are reasonably close and we don't have to throw away tons of expensive batteries, we just recharge em.

But in a defense weapon, I would use the e^2 lithiums due to higher total capacity (3000mah vs. 2000mah for e^2 vs sanyo eneloop) and almost negligible self discharge vs the "low" self discharge eneloops.

Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the info!
If you want rechargeable, I would go with the aforementioned low self discharge nickel metal hydride cells such as the Sanyo eneloop. Regular NiMH batteries will go dead in no time due to high self discharge.
I think the 2300mAh Energizer AA's may be close to the Sanyo Eneloops from what I read-I have both the 2500 and 2300 mAh Energizer AA's and the 2300's last a LOT longer in what I consider low draw applications.
If I wasn't so heavily into Energizer rechargeables, I'd probably go the Eneloop route.

I did bite the bullet and put some of the "e squared" photo lithium AA batteries in my EOTech last time I swapped 'em out, mainly for their long shelf life (which I hope applies while they're unused in the EOTech).
Didn't know anything 'bout 'em but past experience with Energizers and the long shelf life-good to know the info you posted 'bout 'em not leaking.
 
But in a defense weapon, I would use the e^2 lithiums
Just got back from my local WalMart-no e2 to be found, but they did have Ultimate Lithiums. I could not find any mention of e2 on Energizers site-so far I've found one place that claims the e2 and Ulitmate Lithium are the same, just different packaging.

Checking Amazon etc, many Ultimate Lithiums are listed as L91BP, the e2 as L92BP.

Jest more confusion I guess? :confused: :banghead:

EDIT: Looks like some bad info on Amazon AFA models? Energizer site here shows L91 as AA, L92 as AAA.
This page also lists the e2 models as obsolete, so I guess the Ultimate Lithiums have replaced the e2 models.
 
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All my SD lights use Lithium. Insight m6X on my Glock , Surefire shotgun fore end and 2 Surefire E2dL LED flashlights.

As mentioned Lithiums have a 10 year shelf life and don't leak like the others (AFAIK)

I just bought a new MG Pocket Rocket 700 lumen flashlight that can accept rechargeable Lithium Ion. I use one AW 18650 2600 MAH battery, It can also accept RCR123 batteries as well as regular Lithium CR123. I use a Pila charger to recharge.

I wish the big weapon light manufacturers would go to recharge able lithiums. That would mandate a different LED than the 6 volt ones they use now. Lithium Ion batteries are 3.7 volts so you can't use them in weapon lights. It will burn up the LED
 
Voted other.

For AA or AAA batteries, I've tried many brands & types and settled on Sanyo Eneloop NiMH.

Besides much higher capacity than alkalines, they're the only rechargeable I've used that will hold their charge for a long time. They're rated to hold 75% of their charge after 3 years in storage.

They also outperform "normal" NiMH + Alkaline in cold temps.
 
Doing a little research, and if anyone's interested, there's a ton o' PDFs on Energizer's site-application manuals, cross sections, etc. Think the one on the Lithium Iron Disulfide (Ultimate Lithiums) is 21 pages long! (but lots of good info).

I wasn't aware that lithiums 'don't leak', but based on the info I've found so far, I think that's what's going in my EOTech from now on (don't leak, no storage discharge, wider operating range, higher capacity). Guess I'll stick with the cheaper alkalines in my flashlights, which get more regular use/go through more batteries than my EOTech.
 
Sanyo makes good stuff. I've been happy with their eneloop line.

Maha/Powerex batteries are also good. I haven't had a chance to play with their low discharge NiMH batteries but I'd give their standard NiMH batteries a bit of an edge over the Sanyo equivalent.
 
By the way, I meant to mention that batteries most commonly leak after they discharge (after they go dead). If you make an effort to keep good-quality, fresh batteries in your equipment the odds are very good that you'll never have one leak.
 
the only stipulation i have when it comes to batteries are to use lithium in anything you are betting your life on.
 
By the way, I meant to mention that batteries most commonly leak after they discharge (after they go dead).
Yeah, but apparently I'm one o' those folks that has a black cloud following him around-witness my AAA Duracell that leaked while in a plastic Plano storage case (under ideal heat/humidity conditions), with 5 years to go before the expiration date! :banghead:
'Course, I do have a number of cheapies that came with some of the $2.50 LED lights I bought at the Advance Auto counter-ain't none of them leaked! :scrutiny:

I've got a number of Streamlights on the way (conducting my own little experiment with light output of various models) and I see most/all? of 'em come with Duracells-guess I'm going to have to have a Duracell sale!?
 
Just a little update

Earlier I mentioned a Pelican storage case with foam insert pre-cut to hold 15 CR123 batteries-I got mine at Botach Tactical, but they no longer carry that particular package.
I did run across it at Battery Junction-nice little storage unit if you're in the market, although a little more than I paid for mine.
Just noticed-it's the same Pelican case, (1010) but mine is cut to hold 15-Battery Junction's is cut to hold only 12!

I have a landline phone that takes 4 AA batteries to power the display only-I’d been using the 2500 mAh Energizer rechargeables, but try as I might, I could not get more than 7 weeks out of ‘em before I got a low battery warning light. I tried multiple batteries thinking some of ‘em may be bad, but got the same results with all of ‘em.
I bought some new Energizer rechargeables that were 2300 mAh, and my records show so far they’ve been in the phone for 6 months and I haven't seen the low battery light yet. :)

I’d read somewhere the new 2300 mAh Energizers were close to the Eneloops (think somebody even claimed Sanyo made ‘em for ‘em?)-based on my results, Energizer has obviously made a big improvement from the 2500 mAh units they were pushing.

If anybody out there’s already invested in Energizer rechargeables (like myself), you might try the new lower power model before spending money to jump ship?
 
I wasn't aware that lithiums 'don't leak'

Lithiums can and sometimes do leak. Aside from guns flashlights are another hobby of mine. Im pretty much a Surefire fanboy and could probably buy a small car if I sold off all my lights. Anyway, all of Surefires (except my new E2DLAA) use 123's and those are pretty expensive and my lights go through em' fast. On a flashlight forum I also frequent some have gone the cheap route to offset the cost of good prices which are still at $1.50 a battery online in bulk. Some of these super cheap brands from china lack PTC protection which is a precautionary measure to keep venting from happening. When a 123 vents it is not good. Temps well over 1000 degrees, fumes and the like. It is VERY VERY rare for a namebrand 123 to vent but happens more when cheap 123's lacking PTC are used. Even more so in a light like my M6 which eats through 6 123's in 20 minutes, talk about high drain devices :D.

Morale of the story is it can still happen, albeit very uncommon.
 
Even more so in a light like my M6 which eats through 6 123's in 20 minutes
Were you aware Insight has come out with LED upgrade kits for the M6?
I just ran across 'em yesterday-no mention made at their site, but if you download either LE or civilian catalogs the info is in there.

Looks like all you do is unscrew the old incandescent unit and screw the new unit on.

May not be able to find any yet, as I think they only came out last month.
I have a number of their weapon lights/lasers and plan on upgrading.
I also have one of their X2's for sub-compacts, and it's incandescent light is pretty puny and awfully yellow-that's going to be the first one that gets upgraded!

Insight MTV-750-A1 X2/X2L LED Upgrade Kit
Insight MTV-700-A1 X2 Sub Compact LED
Insight MTV-701-A1 X2 Sub Compact LED with Laser
Insight M3X-750-A1 M6X LED Upgrade Kit
(125 to 150 lumens, doubles runtime to 120 minutes-approx $50, but everybody out)
 
Any of you folks using CR123's-they don't list it any longer at Botach Tactical, but I bought a Pelican 1010 Micro Case with a foam insert pre-cut for 15 CR123 batteries-looks like you now have to go searching for the pre-cut foam inserts on your own?

I've had good success with Battery Station, and they provide a discount if you're a member of CPF. If you scroll down the page a little, you'll see the battery cases. I burn through their house brand 123's in bulk. For long-term storage batteries I use the Energizer Ultimate lithiums, and for rechargables I use the Sanyo Eneloops. I've been very happy with the Eneloops performance in all of my home electronics.
 
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