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Best lube for newly redone Revolver

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by StressPuppy, Apr 29, 2003.

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  1. StressPuppy

    StressPuppy Member

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
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    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    I have just gotten my S&W Model 65 (stainless) back from being bead-blasted. I bought it used and it had a ton of tiny scratches and stuff from the previous owner. Instead of having it buffed out, I decided to have it blasted. The finish looks great!!!

    Now I have the fun task of reassembling. But before I do, I would like some opinions on the best thing to lube/coat/treat all the internal parts with. I have been lightly polishing to make sure everything works smooth with no binding or dragging, but I want to keep it that way. I would prefer not to have to get in there very often, so I want something that is good and slick, doesn't attract dust/lint/gunpowder.

    I have many things related to how to clean and what oils to use, but I am wonder if there is anything specifically for assembling and something you don't have to touch. I hear that there are some that bond to the metal to create a slick surface (some I heard that you apply then heat with a hairdryer to make the reaction happen).

    Any and all advice on this would be much appreciated. I would like to get my newly finished gun back together, but I want to put some care into it.

    Thanks!!
     
  2. bountyhunter

    bountyhunter member

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    After I tune up a wheelgun and go to assemble, I use a good grease like Tetra grease, Slide Glide, or Militec grease. I take a small modeler's paintbrush and use it to paint a thin film on all the surfaces inside and on all the parts. I apply extra grease on the sear faces and the rebound slide surfaces because they get the most stress. I don't grease the sides of the hammer where they ride on the frame pin, I use a liquid oil there like FP-10. That's to make sure the hammer drops nice and free.

    I have found that grease will give good operation a lot longer than liquid oil because the latter runs off the parts and down into the grip. Liquid oil is also a "solvent" which means powder blow dissolves in it and turns it black pretty quickly. I have personally found that grease works better and lasts longer on my wheel guns. I generally only clean the insides about every 2000 rounds now.
     
  3. Standing Wolf

    Standing Wolf Member in memoriam

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    I'll second what bountyhunter said, and add that it's worth your while to make double and triple sure not to leave finger prints on any of the internal parts: finger prints can and do cause corrosion even on stainless steel.
     
  4. StressPuppy

    StressPuppy Member

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    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    I picked up some Militec oil at the suggestion of someone at FALFiles. After I used Shooter's Choice Bore cleaner to clean everything, I coated all the parts with Militec and let them sit (I am told it creates a bond with the metal). I then used a clean patch and such to wipe off the excess, leaving a very thin layer on the parts. I got it all back together it is it great! The real test will be at the range, though.

    I have been using Hoppe's No. 9, Break-Free CLP and started playing with Tetra Lube. But it all seems to be an experiment to find what works best for me/you, and that is part of the fun.

    Thanks for the input!!!
     
  5. WESHOOT2

    WESHOOT2 Member

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    Location:
    Vermont
    Brownells Action Lube.
     
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