Best material for polishing cartridge cases?

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Crushed walnut (lizard liter) w/ a tablespoon of liquid auto polish mixed in beforehand
 
I prefer crushed walnut. Corn cob seems to work as well, it just takes longer and generates more dust in my vibratory tumbler.

Also, I find it to be less work to tumble before de-priming. I let the tumbler run while removing the brass so the vibration helps release all the media from inside the case.
 
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Corn-Cob-Blast-Media-2MVR5

It ships free to the store, then pick it up.

Add polish from Berrys, Dillon, Midway, or use Nu-Polish etc. Keep the stuff slightly moist (Just not dry as powder), and it will shine them up and not make dust all over.

I run it longer than most folks to get it real shiny. Some folks don't care about shiny and want it clean real fast, walnut will do that. It will leave some black, but be clean enough to use faster.

Corncob and polish.

Corncob 14-20 Grainger 2.JPG Polished .357 Range Brass Pic 1.JPG
 
Corn cobs? Crushed walnut shells? Something else?
I think between those two choices that the crushed walnut shell serves better as a cleaner being slightly abrasive while the crushed corn cob makes for a better polishing media being softer. So if you have really dirty brass I lean towards walnut but for just dull I like corn cob media. Either can have a little of any of the polishes or cleaners added which were mentioned. I have used the Midway polish as well as the NuFinish automotive stuff with good results. Polishes like Brasso which contain Ammonia are not recommended, nor is any polish which contains ammonia as ammonia can deteriorate the brass. See what works for you and run with it following a little experimenting.

Ron
 
I've found that crushed walnut cleans faster, but corn cob gives me a better shine. A titch of Nu-Finish in both helps speed the process, leaves a slight protective film against tarnishing and makes the cases a tad slicker when resizing. When desperate, I have used rice with fair results.
 
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Thanks to a post here, I use Crushed Walnut and about a Tablespoon of NeFinish. About an Hour i the Shaker, 300+ 45ACP/45LC, 200 30 Cal Rifle, come out looking like brand new brass. Previously I used Brasso, and found out I was hurting the brass with the Brasso.

Hope this helps, Another Big Thanks to this Thread, you Guys are the Best.

Dan
 
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Corn-Cob-Blast-Media-2MVR5

It ships free to the store, then pick it up.

Add polish from Berrys, Dillon, Midway, or use Nu-Polish etc. Keep the stuff slightly moist (Just not dry as powder), and it will shine them up and not make dust all over.

I run it longer than most folks to get it real shiny. Some folks don't care about shiny and want it clean real fast, walnut will do that. It will leave some black, but be clean enough to use faster.

Corncob and polish..

For $5.00 Zoro will deliver it to your door.
It has been reported that walnut "cleans" better but corn "shines" better. I just use corn.

Has there been in depth studies, reviews and statistically valid tests which define the best grade and nominal diameter micron range of which corn media shines the "best"??
Double blind studies showing the time needed, quality of shine and how long it lasts?:):)

I mix 14-20 and 20-40 grit to cover all bases.


https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-blast-media-corn-cob-20-to-40-grit-crn3-40/i/G2165387/

Bulk Walnut can be found at Harbor Freight Junk stores
 
For $5.00 Zoro will deliver it to your door.
That's another good place to get it, and likely who supplies Grainger. I get my companies price at Grainger, so it is a little bit cheaper than what shows on the web. Not much, but a little, and the store is a couple miles away. Cheap, convenient.

I have used 14/20 (pictured) and 20/40 (What I have now) and I can't say I have a big preference. If you use 14/20 you'll have to knock/pick/shoot out a few pieces from flash holes.

Buy by price/convenience.
 
Brown rice, white rice, rice hulls. White and brown give less dusting than cob or walnut, clean just as fast and as well, and clean out of 22cal and larger cases better.
 
It seems that it will deteriorate the brass, by changing to NuFinish, my brass is cleaner and I'm weakening the brass with Brasso.

Hope this helps
 
From our friends at Wiki:
Brass is susceptible to stress corrosion cracking,[26] especially from ammonia or substances containing or releasing ammonia. The problem is sometimes known as season cracking after it was first discovered in brass cartridges used for rifle ammunition during the 1920s in the British Indian Army. The problem was caused by high residual stresses from cold forming of the cases during manufacture, together with chemical attack from traces of ammonia in the atmosphere. The cartridges were stored in stables and the ammonia concentration rose during the hot summer months, thus initiating brittle cracks. The problem was resolved by annealing the cases, and storing the cartridges elsewhere.

While I have never witnessed this and despite the fact that the Marine Corps convinced me Brasso was my best friend I use brass polishes which do not contain ammonia. There are people who have used Brasso and other ammonia based cleaners for years and never a problem. I just figure with so many other options available why use it? I also go out of my way to make sure horses do not urinate on my cartridge cases, especially during the summer. :)

Ron
 
Thanks to a post here, I use Crushed Walnut and about a Tablespoon of NeFinish. About an Hour i the Shaker, 300+ 45ACP/45LC, 200 30 Cal Rifle, come out looking like brand new brass. Previously I used Brasso, and found out I was hurting the brass with the Brasso.

Hope this helps, Another Big Thanks to this Thread, you Guys are the Best.

Dan


Every time the topic of polish comes up it is either Brasso or the vinegar and salt forms HCL (FALSE) and weakens brass.

Brasso has 2-3% by VOLUME of ammonium hydroxide. How much ammonia can 2 tablespoons in a tumbler full of media actually contain? Next to nothing, zip, nada. Insignificant. It is mainly mineral spirits and a fine abrasive.

https://www.conncoll.edu/media/website-media/offices/ehs/envhealthdocs/Brasso_-Polish_-MSDS.pdf
 
dgod wrote:
It seems that it will deteriorate the brass,...

In fact, it doesn't.

Season cracking, which Reloadron has already posted from the Wikipedia page in post #15 occurred in unannealed brass that was stored in a horse stable for an entire season (hence the name). As the last line of the Wikipedia post says, the problem was solved by annealing the brass and not storing it over a cesspit.

Whether season cracking can even occur in modern annealed brass is open to question. Long term exposure to high concentrations of ammonia can cause stress cracking on the surface of even annealed brass, but the cracks remain confined to the outer layers of the material and do not penetrate.

Even if modern brass were susceptible to season cracking, the amount of ammonia in Brasso is so small and the exposure times so short (minutes, not months) that it is not going to damage anyone's cases.
 
Reloadron wrote:
I just figure with so many other options available why use it?

It is comparatively inexpensive, highly effective, readily available and it doesn't harm the brass.

I also go out of my way to make sure horses do not urinate on my cartridge cases, especially during the summer. :)

A practice I think we should all be sure to adopt. :D
 
I use
corn cob - it gets stuck in the flash hole and primer pocket - also in side bottle necks - since I deprime before
this slows down everything [ shiny cases - slower than walnut ]

Walnut -it gets stuck in the flash hole and primer pocket - also in side bottle necks - since I deprime before
this slows down everything and is harder to remove than corn

pins - gets stuck in the flash hole and primer pocket [not as much as corn - also in side bottle necks - since
I deprime before this slows down everything and is harder to remove than corn or walnut , but it is mostly
the ones inside bottle necks . Also you have to rinse and dry cases

Sonic - takes longer , you have to rinse and dry cases and in my case - smaller number of shells @ a time .
I just got one of the spinners for cases , will find out how it workd for corn and walnut . It left pins in bottle necks ,

I am going to try the tumbler with corn and then walnut . I have to buy more of both - both have additives
right now
 
20/40 Corncob will give a higher polish than walnut hulls. Walnut hulls will clean better being courser but will not give the high gloss. The 20/40 is fine enough to flow through flash holes. If you use pet bedding this is the scrap left over after all the good stuff was removed. Pet bedding is very dusty too. Use blast grade media and you will get a faster and better finish.

Before I switched over to the wet SS cleaning method I used a mix of 50/50 corncob/walnut hulls. This is the best of both, faster cleaning but not quite the shine but very good.
 
jski wrote:
Corn cobs? Crushed walnut shells? Something else?

Alluvial sands from the south fork of the Spring River. Highly uniform grain size combined with naturally occurring clay fines ensures adhesion to and removal of even the smallest amounts of carbon and debris. Of course the reason I think it is "the best" is that I own the rights to large deposits of such sand.o_O

Seriously, for all-around use, I have found walnut media to be the best overall compromise. It is abrasive enough to be a good cleaner, it is absorbent enough to do a good job removing case lubricants and it polishes cases well enough to make them attractive and facilitate visual inspection. It is relatively inexpensive (particularly when bought as pet litter), easy to use and can be used in rotary or vibratory tumblers. Walnut media is beaten in every category by some other form of media, but for me walnut shells deliver the best balance of the functions I am looking for.
 
I use crushed pecan shells cause it's free and all over the place in the South. Dad bags em up for me after picking up pecans and shelling them.
 
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