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Best NON J-frame S&W CCW revolver, for IWB carry...

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kashton

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Jun 10, 2007
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Houston, TX
I am thinking of getting a revolver for CCW carry IWB and have looked at tons of models. I am wondering which would be best in your opinion, maybe a model I haven't even considered. Something 2-3" bbl.
 
Are there any current-production models from S&W that can be concealed IWB because It would be difficult to find those older model K frames like the 65/66/19
 
That would have to be the old Ruger Speed Six...no longer made...but larger than a J frame and just a tad bit smaller than a K frame. My first weapon (I curse the day I sold it). I will be looking for one at the next gun show. It is the perfect carry OWB/IWB revolver.

speedsix2.jpg

RugerSpeed.jpg
 
The 3" model 64 is still available, but listed only the S&W LE catalog & LE part of their website http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...angId=-1&parent_category_rn=26806&isFirearm=Y . I prefer the fixed sight 10/13/64/65 over their adjustable sight 13/19/66/67 brethren for concealed carry - both IWB & OWB - as well. If you can't find an older gun those are your best non J frame option from S&W.

I'd also not overlook the 3" bbl S&W model 60. With a little de-horning of the adjustable sights and a set of slightly oversized grips they'll handle more like a K frame in shooting, and carry quite well on the belt.

If you're open to other than S&W revolvers, the discontinued Ruger Speed/Service/Security Sixes that DawgFvr brings up are very good when you can find them. Their current production SP-101 slots nicely between S&W's J and K frames, and is quite a nice belt revolver.
 
Smith & Wesson model 296, works for me. Not currently produced, but they are around.

Not much larger than a J-frame (1" taller, .75" longer, .2" wider). 5 shots of, .44 Special. 19 ounces. Tuck it IWB with the Barami Hip-Grip.
 
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Well.. "D" frame Colts

Slightly larger than a J-frame, one more round.

Detective Specials are heavier and some folks like that.. I prefer the lighter Cobra's, but that's just personal preference.

I recommend you consider the revolver that is considered by many to be the "high water mark" for American snubbys.

These fine revolvers are still available on-line in several places. I bought my nickle DS online two years ago.

DS's and Cobra's WILL do the job for you, they are top quality, a pleasure to carry and shoot, and you will have yourself a cc jewel.

Spend the money and buy a nib, or "like new" D-frame (my DS was "like-new), and you won't ever lose any money on it, and should you later ever decide to sell it, you'll probably make money on it.

JMOFO

Best Wishes,

J. Pomeroy
 
3" SP101, rugged to the max in .357 magnum and very shootable while being more concealable than a K frame. I like my 3" Taurus 66 (K frame size gun), but the Ruger is a little lighter and the grip is more concealable sized. It's also a more rugged revolver than any K frame with hot loads, not that it really matters that much if you practice mostly with .38s and limit full house magnum use in the guns. A K frame will outlast me, I'm sure of that. I'd prefer buying a new SP101 to a used Smith, just personal, but I like the gun's design and prefer it to any K frame for IWB carry. I much prefer the frame mounted firing pin and transfer bar system to any hammer mounted pin, too. I've seen hammer mounted pins break, probably from too much dry firing, but it makes me question them. I have an old M10 that's never done that, though, but I just like the Ruger system better.

My $.02
 
I don't know much about Rugers. How is the quality and lifespan versus the S&W made revolvers, such as the Model 60 / 686 etc.

The SP101 looks like a great firearm from what I can see so far.
 
It is a MUCH stronger gun than any J frame or K frame revolver. It has no side plate which makes it strong by design. It'll be here after a J frame has turned to dust. I love my Rugers, tough as nails. I can load hot handloads in the SP101 I'd never attempt in a M19 Smith due to its lesser strength. the little thing is built like a tank and it can take it. One side benefit of the design is that you can pull the trigger group out of it rather easily and thoroughly clean the works. The Smith and Taurus side plate revolvers are a little more involved under that side plate, though I can clean 'em, too.

There is no revolver on the planet, ounce for ounce, that is as strong as a Ruger, period, case closed. It will outlast any comparable revolver from another manufacturer. Even the Smith and Wesson zealots will seldom argue that point, preferring to argue for out of the box trigger or something, as if I can't buy a spring kit from Wilson or Wolff and tune the Ruger myself (one's on the way for my SP101). I tuned the trigger on my old Security Six myself and it had one of the slickest trigger pulls of any revolver I've ever owned, budda!
 
Sp101

The SP101 is one of my favorites. R is for rugged, reliable, and Ruger. :D

Enjoy,
 
SP101 snubbies are the smallest firearms I normally carry anymore, and I usually carry 2+ handguns. I would say that the SP101's major parts will long outlast any J-frame; I will leave opinions on the smaller parts to the experts, but I like them so much I own three! I will also cast another vote of confidence for the Speed Six. Who thought a J-frame is too wide for IWB? We are all built differently, so keep that in mind, but when I was a young patrol officer, and could not afford a mid-sized weapon between my duty N-frame and back-up J-frame, I regularly carried the N-FRAME IWB when out of uniform. I still use IWB for the Speed Six and GP100 today.
 
Go to a range, find a club, or some friends that have Smiths/Colts/Rugers and see what feels best for you - I like and carry K frame Smiths, they feel (grip and point) right for me and have, to me, the smoothest DA and SA triggers available, but you're different and that's fine, buy what works for you. I will not argue that Smith's are inherently better (though they are), Ruger makes fine revolvers and Colt did (and maybe the Custom Shop still does now and then). In any case go handle and shoot some and see what you like, ask any ten of us and you'll get 17 opinions.
 
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Go to a range, find a club, or some friends that have Smiths/Colts/Rugers and see what feels best for you - I like and carry K frame Smiths, they feel (grip and point) right for me

There are plenty of aftermarket grips for revolvers if you don't like the feel of the gun. I have a Hogue monogrip coming for my new SP101. I have Hogues on my M10, and my 3" Taurus 66. I had one of the early nylon ones on my old Security Six. I like Hogue grips. The wood most medium frame Smiths and the old Security Sixes come with and the medium frame Tauri come with is suitable mainly for starting fires.

My SP101's recoil tends to damage my middle finger's knuckle. The stock grip is okay, but doesn't fill in the gap behind the trigger well enough to avoid knuckle damage, therefore, the Hogue is on the way. Neat thing about the SP101, too, is it doesn't have the normal metal grip frame in either round or square butt configuration. It has only a small rail that extends out from the frame and will accept round or square butt profile grips either one, sky's the limit on grip shape. The one that it comes with is a square butt profile, but the hogue is more of a round butt design and with finger grooves that I like for indexing the hand on the draw. To me, the ability to change the grip, and on the Rugers the grip profile, at will is a big advantage the revolver has over the autoloader. I've never been a stickler for "feel" of the gun in the hand, anyway. I can adapt. To me, a guy that can't adapt to, say, a Glock (one of the guns everyone thinks "doesn't fit" their hand) is just bogus. Hey, ADAPT YOUR GRIP TO THE GUN AND SHOOT IT! But, some grips are more comfortable to shoot than others, so for a PDW, it's a legitimate complaint I guess, just as I don't care much for the stock grip on the SP101 for the reasons I give. However, with a revolver, and especially a Ruger, the grip shape is not written in stone. You can change it to suit you. The monogrip in rubber is all of 15 bucks and change from midwayusa.com.

If I had my choice of grip shapes, I'd build a DA gun with an SA revolver's grip, personally. I love the feel and the way a single action handles recoil by rolling up in the hand. It's natural on a single action since you have to cock the hammer every shot. I reckon it might slow down DA fire a bit. But, with a .454 Casull, a single action sure feels better than a double action to shoot!

Anyway, don't sweat the grip on the gun you look at. It can easily be changed and, in fact, that's one of the things I usually do on any DA revolver. None of 'em come with a decent grip, at least none of 'em I've bought, with the one exception of my little Taurus M85UL. It has a dandy little rubber boot grip that, for concealment and shooting, cannot be improved upon IMHO. I pocket carry the gun and it hides well and is comfortable to shoot with +P .38 and points well.
 
wooweeeee but that was a mouthful MCgunner. I understand that the Trausch Grip is the "IN" grip now for the SP101. Sure...it isn't pretty as the woodies but it handles recoil and is thin enough to take speed loaders; I understand that clothing does not hang or print with this grip. Best thing to come out of France since Merlot and Cabernet.
 
The hard thing to conceal is the grip. With IWB the rest of the gun doesn't matter much. S&W K and L grips are the same size, and the SP101 is similar. Not much to choose from. I have no problem concealing an N-frame 325PD under a loose shirt. Get the gun you want and a good holster, like a VM2. You'll find a way to wear it that works for you.
 
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