Best skinner I've owned/ Your preferred sharpening method?

[Slamfire]

You have changed my life, Slamfire! I thank you and my curved knives thank you!

Do try it first, then if it does not work out, please don't be too angry. Also, don't forget the magnifying lens, you have to examine the bevel, its width, its angle, to match the contours as you go up.

 

[Valkman]

Do try it first, then if it does not work out, please don't be too angry. Also, don't forget the magnifying lens, you have to examine the bevel, its width, its angle, to match the contours as you go up.

I like to mark the edge and bevel with a marker besides looking at it with a magnifying glass. Then you can see what you take off and if you're matching the angle. When I set up a knife in my WE that's how I set the angle of the stones - I guess so it's close, make a light pass and see if there's marker left and how much. Adjust, repeat until the stone matches the bevel and takes all the marker off. Repeat for other side - many new knives do not have matching bevel angles.

 

[Slamfire]

many new knives do not have matching bevel angles.

I'll say. I don't know what was going on at Queen in its last day's, but I bought a few stockman's just as the firm went bust.





These are not factory edges, they have been sharpened.

I bought some other knives which I have not pictured. But, who ever was sharpening the things, one side was a reasonable bevel, say 20 to 30 degrees (I don't know, I don't have a way of measuring the angle), but the other side was 45 or some severe angle, darn near a right angle. And it was consistent, who ever was sharpening the things, on a belt grinder I believe, with his wrist in one position the angle was good, then he flipped his hand over and messed up the edge. Probably took the character seconds. Zip, Zip. In fact, the edges were poor. Some of those late Queens did not have what I would call an edge at all. Burr city more than Queen City. It took about 30 to 40 minutes to get a good edge on all three blades.At least the heat treatment was good. I was not happy about the low spring tension on the blades, I prefer a blade with a good snap, so it takes more force to accidentally close the thing on a finger!. I still have visible scars on the right forefinger, from accidents more than a half century ago. Ever heard the saying, the tree remembers but the axe forgets? Well, I remember, and I don't want to repeat the feeling.

Strangely enough, all of the Kizer knives I have bought have symmetrical edges and are sharp. Until I dull them, I leave them as is.

 

[jmr40]

This is my current favorite. I have a Lansky set, but it is a lot of trouble to get out and set up. I'm able to get satisfactory results with this with the least amount of effort.

https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-G...pID=51gMWsQwGHL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

[ugaarguy]

Pete from Cedric & Ada Outdoors just put up a great video comparing several of the more popular sharpening systems:

 

[foxmeadow]

I bought a Worksharp electric sharpener, and while it does remove material quickly, it also removes material too quickly if you aren't well versed in its use. I have a lot of knives, pocket knives, hunters and a fairly full set of Victorinox (good quality budget kitchen cutlery). When I first tried the Worksharp, I had read the instructions, watched the included dvd, and then went at it like I was killing snakes. The video didn't tell you to hit the trigger and start pulling the blade at the same instant. I'd just hold down the trigger and swipe away, not stopping when I got to the tip of the blade, just pulling the blade out and inserting again at the hilt end. This will ruin whatever needle point you have at your tip. I don't even use it anymore except for the purple belt, which is ultra fine. Every thing else gets the Lansky treatment now.

 

[hso]

I'd just hold down the trigger and swipe away, not stopping when I got to the tip of the blade, just pulling the blade out and inserting again at the hilt end.

That's the big warning with the Work Sharp. They warn users just pull straight to the point and release the trigger when the tip gets to the middle of the belt and you won't roll your tip.

 

[Slamfire]

Expensive gizmo's. What ever happened to just a sharpening stone? (and a magnifying glass?)



Now this is the deluxe version, used by Florindo Di Pinto



You can see the original in the Ohio Historical Museum. It was a foot pedal machine, notice the water drip.

 

[ugaarguy]

Expensive gizmo's. What ever happened to just a sharpening stone? (and a magnifying glass?)

The cost of quality stones has gotten rather high. Stones like that Norton also need to be flattened with a diamond truing plate from time to time. Building up the technique to apex an edge free hand, rather than micro convex it, takes an investment in time and practice blades you're willing to sacrifice. Some people will never reach the level of a Di Pinto doing free hand sharpening, no matter how much they practice. I wonder what Di Pinto's cart would cost in 2018 dollars, vs a $500 Tormek, which is a water cooled, low speed, wheel type sharpener. The gizmos guide the hand and allow even a novice to get a constant angle with an apex edge (Lansky, KME, etc). The other gizmo - the Worksharp - is the price of a DMT bench stone, and allows a novice to get a slack belt micro convex bevel.

As Pete notes in the video, the micro convex edge is great for big choppers, and the Worksharp gets them there quickly. Modern steels used in nicer pocket knives and smaller fixed blades can hold very narrow apex edges that are extremely sharp. Diamond or good ceramic is also needed to cut through these very high hardness steels that also tend to have very hard, abrasive carbides embedded in the iron matrix.

 

[hso]

I was about to comment that many people have lost the skills expected 50 years ago, but then I've seen far too many ruined knives sharpened by hand 50 years ago to perpetuate that. Also the fact that folks paid tinkers to come by and sharpen knives is further testament that enough people didn't sharpen their own knives 100/50 years back. There's at least 2 mobile sharpening businesses here with nice equipment that will come and sharpen residential as well as professional knives. I've chatted with both and if I don't die on the job might make for a nice retirement activity to join up with them.

 

[Shanghai McCoy]

At my last job my boss would bring in his kitchen knives every couple of weeks for me to sharpen. Had a nice 3 stone set in the shop so it was "easy money".
Don't know what he's done since I retired tho...

 

[kBob]

Slamfire,

I do like Mr. Dipinto's set up! Thanks for sharing it with us.

-kBob

 

[lemaymiami]

for Min Fats, post #21... I have one of those Old Chicago filet knives (your last picture...) and it's been a solid performer on soft skinned fish (mangrove snapper, pompano, speckled trout). I've cut hundreds and hundreds of filets with it - then turned each one over and fileted the meat off the skin for my anglers. It's seen so much use that the handle has been hollowed out a bit and I'm thinking of replacing it (if I can find one...). Unlike other supposedly rust free blades - this model actual is pretty much rust-free in the salt or brackish areas I guide in year after year (and it's the only good quality blade kept on my skiff -my bigger blades stay in my truck and only come out back at the ramp). Very, very good cheap knife - I've had similar blades costing twice as much that didn't perform as well.

I wouldn't consider using it on bigger fish - I have Forschners for them - nothing like actually using a blade day in and day out to learn about it's real-world utility...

 

[Mn Fats]

for Min Fats, post #21... I have one of those Old Chicago filet knives (your last picture...) and it's been a solid performer on soft skinned fish (mangrove snapper, pompano, speckled trout). I've cut hundreds and hundreds of filets with it - then turned each one over and fileted the meat off the skin for my anglers. It's seen so much use that the handle has been hollowed out a bit and I'm thinking of replacing it (if I can find one...). Unlike other supposedly rust free blades - this model actual is pretty much rust-free in the salt or brackish areas I guide in year after year (and it's the only good quality blade kept on my skiff -my bigger blades stay in my truck and only come out back at the ramp). Very, very good cheap knife - I've had similar blades costing twice as much that didn't perform as well.

I think I can help you replace it. I have two. I dont have the sheath for the second one but its yours if you want it. No charge. PM me if your going to put it to use.

 

[cheygriz]

Spyderco Sharpmaker and Crock Sticks limit you to 15 or 20 degrees.

I use the Edge-Pro Apex. Very versatile,and capable vof vrazor edged.

http://www.edgeproinc.com/Apex-Model-Edge-Pro-System-c3/

 

[Mn Fats]

The lansky box limits me to 20° and 25°. I can't imagine ever needing greater than 25°, maybe an axe or hatchet I guess but I eyeball those with a stone.

I built a jig to drill 15° holes in the lansky, cause I DO see the need for that degree.

I sat and sharpened my Case kitchen knives in an evening with some brewskis and they turned out razor sharp. The old lady used one to cut a tomato last weekend and I heard "what the hell?" from kitchen. She was surprised her tomato wasn't smashed like usual.

Overall I'm happy with this Lansky stick setup. I know there's better stuff out there but this thing is a great buy at $15.

 

[Bill1225]

I have been using a few natural oil I find at yard sales they are normally better quality then what you can find new without spending a small fortune and in the field I carry a small double sided diamond hone

 

[Drail]

I am still using Arkansas bench stones for everything. I just finished flattening them all out. They cut like new stones now. I have an old Norton Fine India for roughing in the bevels. Love those Old Hickory blades. My kitchen knife block is full of them. That 1095 steel will take a scary edge and is SO EASY to touch up. Tomatoes tremble in fear when I put them on the block. I have started using Marvel Air Tool Oil for honing and it is the perfect weight, maybe SAE 5W. Try some. Most auto parts stores carry it for like $2.00 a bottle. Every time my 82 year old mother in law comes over she looks at my kitchen knives and asks "Are those MY knives?" "No ma'am, they are JUST LIKE them except these are REALLY sharp"......... Slamfire, that old sharpening cart photo is priceless. I love that. A real DNB sharpener (doesn't need batteries) In the old days people understood that a sharp knife in necessary to run a good kitchen. And they took care of them. Old school rules.

 

[hso]

Good to flatten the stones since so many people forget to do that.

 

[Brin]

My preferred method to sharpen knives is with a 2x72 belt sander but to straighten the bevels on your knife, I would build one of these. See attached photo. This design is cheap and easy to make and you can set accurate bevel angles. I am making kitchen knives for Christmas presents for my kids and I needed a sharpener that uses wet & dry sandpaper for sharpening. I found several designs on Youtube to be helpful and I modified one that worked best. Ninety-nine percent of these styles of knife sharpeners are designed so the knife edge is facing you while you sharpen which is really dangerous. If you build one of these, make sure it is designed so the knife edge is facing away from you while sharpening to avoid a very nasty cut. Don’t ask how I know this. Hope this helps someone.

 

[boki_zca]

Get norton sil carbide -india stone puctured above.Its inexpensive but with some technique will give you nice razor sharp toothy edge that is scarynsharp and really really well cuts meat and any soft materials

 

[b0ned0me]

View attachment 801091 This is kind of what I was considering.

I got one of those Lansky kits and was honestly kind of shocked by it. The actual stones themselves seem pretty decent but every other part of the kit was the cheapest of garbage. Flimsy wibbly rods, weak thumbscrews that wont stay tight, blade clamp that wouldnt work without the addition of electrical tape. Even the plastic box wouldn't stay closed. However, despite all that the basic concept is good enough that even I managed to get knives satisfactorily sharp, I just didn't enjoy the process much.

Oh, actually there was one other item of quality, the thick glossy booklet pimping other Lansky brand-extension products looked like it cost as much as the box, the rods and the clamp put together.

 

[jar]

An old Russell Skinner:

​

 

[Kingcreek]

I don't think I've posted these pics before. Apologies if You've seen them.
It's the Mad Poet camp set by the late Mel Sorg Jr. Semi skinner and caping knife with Paul Bos heat treated D2 steel and desert ironwood scales. They have been well used on many hunts over the past 20 years.

 

[cheygriz]

My preferred method to sharpen knives is with a 2x72 belt sander

To get the most and best out of that 2X72, get some linen belts and cubic boron nitride (CBN) spray. You'll be amazed at what you can do with CBN.