Darth-Vang
Member
What’s the best oil to use and or clean ammo can without destroying the gasket? Any other advice for ammo can storage?
Best way to prolong USGI metal ammo can?
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earlthegoat2
Member
Powder coat it. That will make it last.
John Joseph
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Don't use oil
Definitely don't use oil on the gasket
Keep 'em off cement floors as it causes the bottoms to rust
Definitely don't use oil on the gasket
Keep 'em off cement floors as it causes the bottoms to rust
The only thing that I would use on the gasket is some silicone grease that is safe for use on rubber.
Somewhat related. I had a vehicle that the previous owner used some kind of spray lube on the squeaky sun roof that was not designed for rubber. Short of replacing all the rubber around the sun roof, I had to put silicone grease on it once a month.
Somewhat related. I had a vehicle that the previous owner used some kind of spray lube on the squeaky sun roof that was not designed for rubber. Short of replacing all the rubber around the sun roof, I had to put silicone grease on it once a month.
CapnMac
Member
Leaving them alone has been my experience.
Most of the actions you can take all seem to creep up and bite a person in the end.
They were designed for extremely long storage with little or no maintenance.
Most of the actions you can take all seem to creep up and bite a person in the end.
They were designed for extremely long storage with little or no maintenance.
No oil needed. Just keep it off of damp surfaces and away from moisture in general. What do you need to clean off of it?
Ironicaintit
Member
I have one mounted on a trailer that I use to hold tie-downs, straps, etc. it’s been outdoors for a decade or so, and it’s good to go. The best thing you can do for them is to leave it as is!
bdickens
Member
Nothing.
They're designed to last almost forever under all but the most severe storage conditions.
They're designed to last almost forever under all but the most severe storage conditions.
jaguarxk120
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cosmoline !
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ummmm negative on the cosmoline. I'm pretty sure that you are joking about that. Cosmoline is bad enough to clean off things when dried but even worse to put on. It'll make a super sticky, nasty mess of you.
Charlie98
Member
That.
If you want to get excited about the seal, someone mentioned a silicone-based lube... yes and no. Use ONLY 100% silicone, do NOT use any sort of silicone- or Teflon-based lube or grease because it attracts dirt like a magnet, and as it gets older it turns into gunk. A very, very, very thin coat of straight silicone will do what you ask. I'm also not talking about silicone adhesive (RTV.)
I was the one that mentioned silicone grease as long as it is meant for rubber gaskets/seals. That is a worse case senerio short of replacing the gasket. Maybe a little lube on the hinges if they sit out in the weather all the time. I've ran across plenty of ammo cans in the service that sat out so long that we had to use something to pry them open but the gaskets were still good.
daniel craig
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Ballistol. That said, I've switched to plastic. Plastic doesn't rust and the good stuff is quite strong.
Store the ammo inside in freezer ziplock bags and it ain't matter if the gasket goes.
Store the ammo inside in freezer ziplock bags and it ain't matter if the gasket goes.
Ernie Bass
member
Flex Seal.
Charlie98
Member
My reference is the pool industry, which is full of rubber seals, gaskets, and O-rings. Common practice is to use an O-ring lube product, usually Teflon based, but also weird silicone variants, too. They are, largely, unnecessary... you don't need lube if the O-ring and seat is CLEAN, and, as I mentioned, most of that stuff turns into a crap magnet, which defeats the purpose altogether. Other techs laugh at me when I tell them I don't carry MagicLube (the big brand) on the truck, nor silicone sealant (but that rant is for another thread.) I do carry a tiny bottle of 100% pure silicone, marketed by Pentair (Rainbow)... and I have no problems.
Further, it has been my experience that some of lubes, and anything petroleum-based, will defeat an O-ring or seal in the long-term. I've looked at the seals on my ammo cans, they appear to be a type that would not benefit from lubrication... I think they fall into the category of 'good' or 'bad'... either they work, or they don't (having been damaged, etc, somehow.)
Ernie Bass
member
Pellgun Oil is top Shelf for O-rings. Can restore a dry Airgun seal that has not been fired for years.
That has been my experience as well when rebuilding hydraulic and pneumatic cylinders especially in dusty environments such as the desert or furniture factories. A little silicone grease goes a long way when actually needed.
shoobe01
Member
Keep it from rusting. Don't let it be in permanent contact over a wide area, like setting the can down on a concrete floor. Get it on a wire shelf etc.
If you get it rusty, take it ALL apart, strip the impacted are to metal, paint it. RAPCO makes awesome paint and you can get matching semi-gloss.
DO over-paint the original markings. At least not to confuse yourself, but there are cases of fire departments seeing dangerous ammo warnings (HE, etc) and backing out of the house, evacuating the area. So I get rid of all markings just on principle now, and label them accurately, myself.
Lube the seals with something suitable for seals. I like spray white lithium grease. Just had a can I couldn't close for a while then realized, dry seal. Sprayed, snapped shut immediately.
If you get it rusty, take it ALL apart, strip the impacted are to metal, paint it. RAPCO makes awesome paint and you can get matching semi-gloss.
DO over-paint the original markings. At least not to confuse yourself, but there are cases of fire departments seeing dangerous ammo warnings (HE, etc) and backing out of the house, evacuating the area. So I get rid of all markings just on principle now, and label them accurately, myself.
Lube the seals with something suitable for seals. I like spray white lithium grease. Just had a can I couldn't close for a while then realized, dry seal. Sprayed, snapped shut immediately.
Double Naught Spy
Sus Venator
I have several at my range, a couple at each table, now for about a decade, outside, exposed to the elements. They are all still GTG.
George P
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Just like your safe will do as well......
Ironicaintit
Member
I’ve thought about adhering some stall mat (1” thick rubber) to the bottom corners to keep them off of concrete. Just thought, haven’t done.
John Joseph
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I just put them on top of a couple of scrap 2x4s, Much cheaper than stall matting and gives 2" of clearance if a water line should break or other minor flooding should occur
newfalguy101
Member
Or use pallets you get free from work
Charlie98
Member
When I install new pool pumps that are lower than the existing plumbing, and only need to be raised a wee bit, I use 'welcome mats' from HD and Lowes that are made of recycled rubber. They are very dense, don't skid, don't really compress, and you can cut them with a saw to fit any shape you like.
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