Big problem with 1977 Single Six cylinder.

[ontarget]

Am I the only one that would send such a gun back to Ruger?

The gun is 45 years old, would Ruger cover it?

 

[ontarget]

Today I picked up some 600 and 1000 grit sand paper. Not sure if I should use it though. What do you all think?

 

[bigpower491]

Today I picked up some 600 and 1000 grit sand paper. Not sure if I should use it though. What do you all think?

Personally myself......I would have started with a real good cleaning of the cylinder. Perhaps an overnight soak in some mineral spirits and a good hammering with a stiff brass brush.
Being the gun is second hand, you never know the original owner(s) cleaning habits. Some people don't clean em right away, or if they do, they don't do a thorough job. That carbon that's left in the cylinder will oxidize and become hard as and be a bear to get out, especially if it's been allowed to build up over time.
Not that the polish job was a bad idea, but a super duty soak and scrub would've been my first move.
I'd say no to the paper. You're not going to do much with that fine a grit, especially if you don't have all the carbon out.
I'd Kroll the barrel for a couple days and try and get piece of copper chore boy thru that too

 

[ontarget]

Personally myself......I would have started with a real good cleaning of the cylinder. Perhaps an overnight soak in some mineral spirits and a good hammering with a stiff brass brush.
Being the gun is second hand, you never know the original owner(s) cleaning habits. Some people don't clean em right away, or if they do, they don't do a thorough job. That carbon that's left in the cylinder will oxidize and become hard as and be a bear to get out, especially if it's been allowed to build up over time.
Not that the polish job was a bad idea, but a super duty soak and scrub would've been my first move.
I'd say no to the paper. You're not going to do much with that fine a grit, especially if you don't have all the carbon out.
I'd Kroll the barrel for a couple days and try and get piece of copper chore boy thru that too

Oh yes, I scrubbed the bejeezus out of the chambers before I did the polish. No overnight soak, but I used Butches and a tight fitting bronze brush. First by hand and then with a drill. Letting it soak about 30 min several times.
Never did get much of any signs of fouling. Chambers were pretty clean.
Barrel was pretty clean too. Just a lot of lead on the inside edge of the forcing cone, but I didn't feel any choke there when I ran the first patch through.

 

[bigpower491]

Oh yes, I scrubbed the bejeezus out of the chambers before I did the polish. No overnight soak, but I used Butches and a tight fitting bronze brush. First by hand and then with a drill. Letting it soak about 30 min several times.
Never did get much of any signs of fouling. Chambers were pretty clean.
Barrel was pretty clean too. Just a lot of lead on the inside edge of the forcing cone, but I didn't feel any choke there when I ran the first patch through.

Yea I seen that in your original post.
Odd that didn't do the trick.

 

[Hikingman]

Help me understand. If the charge holes are being polished, why would it matter what finish was on the outside? Solvents will remove the residue from firing .22 shorts (are those even available these days?), but will not help if the charge holes are too tight. Just for the record, S&W .22 revolvers are notorious for having charge holes that need to be reamed or polished to function correctly.

I was left to wonder if products such a Mother's- made for aluminum is safe for a blued finish. I'm not a chemist, please understand my hesitancy to use it before asking about the experience of others.

 

[chicharrones]

Am I the only one that would send such a gun back to Ruger?

Probably the best thing to do, but in my case I'm a fix-it-myself kind of guy and I turned it into a learning experience.

 

[chicharrones]

Also do that Base pin hole !

Lol. I just polished off the sharp edges inside that hole and didn't go further as I didn't want to make the cylinder wobbly on the pin. I figure the remaining grooves can act as a lube retainer, kinda like the arbor grooves on my Pietta 1860.

 

[jak67429]

The ss my wife bought me in 1984 to replace the one that was stolen. The LR cylinder was soo bad you could not force a round into it. asked the gun shop I bought it from and they sent it back to ruger. worked fine after that.

 

[Poper]

The gun is 45 years old, would Ruger cover it?

If you can still read "Ruger" on it, maybe - as long as they either have the parts necessary or do not need to replace parts, my guess would be 'yes'. But I would venture a phone call to them first just to be sure.

 

[doubleh]

I would bet that Ruger would take care of the problem. It's not like they quit building them and are running out of parts. I don't know what year the transfer bar was introduced but if it's a three screw model it will return with a transfer bar. I would consider that before sending it in.

 

[ontarget]

I would bet that Ruger would take care of the problem. It's not like they quit building them and are running out of parts. I don't know what year the transfer bar was introduced but if it's a three screw model it will return with a transfer bar. I would consider that before sending it in.

This one is a New Model, so it already has the transfer bar. My flat gate however, is still unmolested, and shall stay that way as long as I am on the green side of the grass.

 

[doubleh]

I have an early '60's one and it will never return to Ruger. It has never given me a problem though and I doubt it will--ever.

 

[Bazoo]

New model aka transfer bar was introduced in 1974. Warning label was 78 I think.