Bipod Help

[mtnlvr]

Hi...first real post here. The introduction post doesn't really count right?

Anyway...In December my father talked me into my first build…a pieced together AR-15 clone. I really like it as it shoots well with no malfunctions in just about 400 rounds now, and good groups if I use the right ammo, many 5 shot groups under 1 MOA, and one 1/2 MOA at 260 yards.

Here’s my dilemma. I’ve got a Hogue free-float fore end and a 4-rail gas block on my rifle and I’d like to get my Harris bipod installed. Does anyone have any idea on how I can get a bipod on this rifle? FWIW…I called YHM and got dimensions of their bipod adapter for picatinny rails and it’s too long to fit on the gas block. Plus, wouldn’t it defeat the purpose of the free-float by mounting a bipod on the barrel?

 

[Welding Rod]

You need to drill the handguard for a swivel stud.

You are right, you definitely do not want to affix a bipod directly to the barrel. Your fine accuracy will likely be affected dramatically.

BTW if you ever sling up you don't want your sling connected to the barrel either.

 

[Dallas Jack]

Welding Rod is right. With a FF handguard you shouldn't put anything on the gas block rail except a front site. Look around at the AR-15 suppliers. There is a sling stud that works great for a bipod when installed on the handguard. I think I got mine at J&T Distributing.

I think you would have to remove your gas block to get access for mounting the stud. No bid deal to do.

I don't know why manufacturers (or anyone) puts 4 rails on a gas block with the only rail needed being the top one for a front site (if needed). I tried hanging a flashlight off of the barrel. Not good.
Dallas Jack

 

[mtnlvr]

Drill the handguard? That's not what I was hoping I'd hear. It would be fine on this rifle but if I were to transfer that handguard to a different upper or swap barrels there is a good chance that the bipod would clock to a new position right? Not all uppers have their threads timed alike? Not all barrels or barrel extensions are equal? Which means another hole would have to be drilled or something faced down or shimmed to clock the bipod?

I wonder if I'd be better off finding a new handguard that would not be dependant on the timing of the threads instead of drilling this one?

 

[Dallas Jack]

I don't know if there is a way to install a sling stud on your handguard without drilling it. I do know if you put a bipod on the rail you have you will see POI changes and degraded accuracy.

The FF handguards I had came on an upper with the stud installed. The handguards had slots cut into them on the site end. The stud was installed in the bottom slot. The handguard in the picture came from J&T Distributing.

Hope this helps.
Dallas Jack

 

[mtnlvr]

Thanks for the responses guys.

Dallas Jack, nice clean looking rifle. Is that a rubber coated tube or is it knurled or what?

And Welding Rod hit it...I found some documentation on the Hogue website that states that the tube has to be drilled in order to mount a bipod.

I'll definitely avoid using the gas block to mount the bipod, and likely relocate the sling to the bipod if it feels secure enough.

I guess I'll be pulling the tube and drilling. I wonder if it would be smart to lightly slot the tube say an 1/8" or so on the mill to allow a little adjustment for clocking?

 

[Juice Boxes]

all these would ruin the free float concept but anyway,

You can get Bipods that will clamp onto the lower rail of your gas block
LaRue Bipods

These are worth every penny

Or if you want to go a less expensive route you can get an adapter then put a normal Harris on it.

A completely different alternative is a barrel mount.

 

[Birdhunter1]

What I did on my free float tube was drill and tap a hole for a screw in stud. I think you can get a package of about a dozen for maybe $10 at Midway or a pack of 3 for a few dollars. However on mine the thread didn't quite work out well in aluminum so a simple C-clamp a swivel stub and some JB weld and I can promise you the stud I put in mine will not come out. Of course I don't plan on taking it out anyway as then I would have a hole in the tube that just wouldn't look right.

hint.... place clear packing tape around the hole, put stud in and cut tape around the hole, the apply JB and stud, remove tape when you are done.

 

[Dallas Jack]

mtnlvr, it was lightly knurled aluminum anodized.

Be carefull of the stud you pick. I had a problem with one I used in that it had a thick spacer under it and the bipod would wobble.

Good luck.
Dallas Jack

 

[mtnlvr]

I did see the LaRue product before...very nice...$$$. But it's anything like the YHM adapter it'll be too long and hang over fore and aft of the gas block interfering with the Hogue tube.

I'm guessing either this one,

or this one.

Question for those that have used one of these...does the adapter rotate freely from the threaded post so that when the it's securely installed it can be rotated to put the hole into the correct position? Or is the hole aligned by not quite tightening the adapter all the way down?


~mtnlvr

 

[Dallas Jack]

I've got the first one. You tighten it down until the hole is in the right place. Same as other studs.
Dallas Jack

 

[mtnlvr]

Be carefull of the stud you pick. I had a problem with one I used in that it had a thick spacer under it and the bipod would wobble.

So it that the one that you were not able to get the bipod solid with?

 

[Dallas Jack]

No, the one on that gun was the same as the first one in your picture.

Look at the picture of this gun. Notice the thickness of the spacer under the stud. That spacer is thick enough to keep a Harris bipod from seating on the handgauard. I replaced it with this one and all was well.
Dallas Jack

 

[mtnlvr]

Right on. Thanks again for the help.