Black Powder Types & Quantities

[MA2NavyVeteran]

So I have a pretty basic collection of BP firearms:

2 flintlock muskets, 1 flintlock pistol,
2 percussion rifles, and 2 percussion pistols.
I also have a miniature cannon which I've only ever used once.

Now, I don't really consider myself much of an "active" user of BP firearms as I maybe get out 2...maybe 3 times a year & only use 1 or 2 of the above weapons during any particular outing, and the calibers of my collection are pretty varied so I essentially keep eight different powders on hand for such outings, and on average, go through roughly 4? pounds of powder a year shooting them, so not much in my estimation.

My question, for the group is: How many different types & quantities of actual black powder (no substitutes) would you say you keep, use, or make in a year's time?

These are the powders that I currently use for my collection...


Thus far I have only ever purchased my powder(s), never attempting to make my own, though over the last few years I have been reading & studying everything I can get my hands on about the process. Now, with the ever diminishing availability of actual black powder for purchase, I am now seriously considering putting such studies to practice.

So a secondary question (for those who make their own powder): Do you find it more practical to make it as you go (make what you need for an outing & use all up during such outing), or make a single big batch (or multiple small batches) at once so as to have & keep a ready supply throughout the year?

Thanks in advance...
MA2

 

[.38 Special]

It's all over the map for me. My most used guns are a .36 flintlock, a .45 "long range" rifle, and a .36 revolver. I buy in 25 pound orders online, and in busy years I'll make a couple of orders. Other years I don't make any orders at all. At the moment I have about ten pounds on hand ( a mix of Swiss 1.5 for the target rifle, OE 3F for the handgun and squirrel rifle, and the endless can of Swiss "Null" for pan priming) and at the rate I've been shooting it should last me through 2023.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

4fg for the pistols and flintlock prime, although I often prime with coarser grains, 2fg for the .58 percussions, 1.5fg for my .62" Jeager, and 1fg for my Brown Bess musket. I ran out of 3fg a while ago, and found I don't really miss it or need it. (yes it can be a great all-around powder for pretty much everything)

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

I use 4f like Ugly does in my revolvers but never in my flintlock pans. 3 f works just as good. 3f works well in everything else as well from my 36 cal to a 20 and 12 gauge trade gun and double barrel and in a .65 cal Ferguson. I can't justify have anything else than those 2 granulations.

 

[AK Hunter]

I only own two BP rifles both are inline one uses the old #10 percussion caps the other uses the modern 209 primers. I keep both of them zeroed dead on at 100yds but I have yet to have a chance to use it. Around here by the time muzzleloader season gets here all the deer are gone.

 

[Zygodactyl]

I have percussion rifles and pistols and a flintlock but most of my black powder gets used in my Martini Henry and my Sniders. The cartridge guns consume a lot of powder every time I take them out. With the cartridge guns you spend more time shooting then if you were muzzle stuffing them. I use 1F, 2F and 3F

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I have percussion rifles and pistols and a flintlock but most of my black powder gets used in my Martini Henry and my Sniders. The cartridge guns consume a lot of powder every time I take them out. With the cartridge guns you spend more time shooting then if you were muzzle stuffing them. I use 1F, 2F and 3F

That reminds me...I do use 3fg in my .45-70 Springfield rifles, (and Marlin) but I've not really shot them for a while, and have a fair amount loaded up for any future shooting. I'm not sure if I'll re-stock some 3fg for them, or just switch to 2fg. Probably should stick to 3fg for them, the Marlin shoots 1MOA, and the carbine is very accurate. Better not mess with that.

I don't know...seems like I can re-charge a muzzle-stuffer way faster than I can reload a .45-70 cartridge!

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I use 4f like Ugly does in my revolvers but never in my flintlock pans. 3 f works just as good.

For priming, I actually like 3fg better, and 2fg works fine too. When I was chasing that bear around in the brush I was priming directly from a paper cartridge, which was 2fg, and didn't notice any difference. The reason I still prime with 4fg is because I usually have a BP revolver with me, and therefore a flask of 4fg for it. In that case I can just prime from the pistol flask, and not carry my priming horn...I've got enough gear, horns, bags, loading blocks, cappers and canteens and other doo-dads hanging off me! So that's what I've been doing lately.

 

[dave951]

I have flintlocks and numerous percussion muskets and shoot many of them in competition. I like to keep the supply chain simple, 3f Swiss across the board and 4f for the flint pans.

Of the powders in your pic, I've used Old E extensively back when there used to be a distributor within 20 miles of my house and it's a decent powder. Fast forward, my supplier was sold to another outfit who dropped all things black powder from their lineup and quit selling anything to the public. So, couple that with Goex reticence to back black powder youth shooting sports, I switched to Swiss and haven't looked back. I buy several cases of Swiss per year and avoid hazmat and shipping by making the purchase coincide with our National competition in Winchester, VA. When buying by the case, yeah it's expensive up front, but I don't pay any hazmat or shipping charges through the year and have no issues with supplies. And yes, I go through quite a bit of powder and caps in competition, practice and instruction with kids so case lots is the only way to go. To many it would seem I go through a lot of powder and compared to the average reenactor or buckskinner, yup, but in our competition org (we shoot Civil War arms including artillery!), my consumption is about average. The guys shooting cannons go through upwards of 500lbs a year.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

For priming, I actually like 3fg better, and 2fg works fine too. When I was chasing that bear around in the brush I was priming directly from a paper cartridge, which was 2fg, and didn't notice any difference. The reason I still prime with 4fg is because I usually have a BP revolver with me, and therefore a flask of 4fg for it. In that case I can just prime from the pistol flask, and not carry my priming horn...I've got enough gear, horns, bags, loading blocks, cappers and canteens and other doo-dads hanging off me! So that's what I've been doing lately.

That's my sentiments exactly, why lug all that stuff around when you don't have too? When I shoot the Ferg I carry a powder horn, shooting bag with balls, spare flints, some lube and that's it. No priming flask, gave it away years ago, when you close the breech on the rifle there's always some powder on top of the breech plug. It goes right into the pan and it's ready to go boom.

 

[Jim Watson]

Oh wow a Ferguson. Show pictures, videos.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I'm glad I don't have a Ferg. I'd never pick any of my other long-guns up again. They'd be neglected. Forgotten. However, I could live vicariously through Jack and enjoy some pics of his Fergie for sure. Then dream about it at night. Or do something rash like sell a whole bunch of my guns to get one. Dang.

 

[Mike OTDP]

I've got a pretty extensive battery, as I shoot both N-SSA and MLAIC events. Mostly pistol.
The musket and carbine get fed Goex 3F until I run out of it.
The pistols? Swiss #2 (3F equivalent) for the revolvers. I've been using Swiss #1 (4F equivalent) for a propellant charge for the single-shot pistols, with good results. Especially in the flintlocks. Prime with Null B.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

I have not shot a flintlock in many, many years. I built one years ago from a cheap kit.

Have not shot Cap & Ball much in years, although I did just get a hold of a Ruger Old Army.

I mostly load Black Powder into cartridges.

45 Colt, 45 Schofield, 44-40, 44 Russian, 38-40, 45-70, and 12 gauge shotgun.

Years ago I used to keep FFg on hand for shotgun and FFFg for everything else.

Basically, you can expect between 60 fps - 100 fps more velocity from FFFg over FFg, everything else being the same.

So a bunch of years ago I simplified everything and now I load FFg into everything. Much simpler than inventorying 2 different granulations.

I cut my teeth on Black Powder with Goex many years ago. Look at the price on the can on the right.






I have not used Goex in years, these days the only powder I use is Schuetzen FFg. It burns a little bit cleaner than Goex and leaves a little bit less fouling behind.






My new to me Ruger Old Army liked 30 grains of Schuetzen FFg just fine.

 

[JT-AR-MG42]

That photo is enough to make me think about a ROA. Very nice.

Is the Ferguson an original? If not, please share info on it's origins.
I try not to be a jealous person, but it's not working in this case!

JT

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Ok guys, the Ferg is built from a parts set from the Rifle Shoppe. It wasn't cheap, 1900 clams all said and done. It's a bucket list gun for me, I always wanted one, had some money and got it. Was a fun build and even more fun to shoot. There are things you have to do differently to successfully shoot one more than a couple of shots. Main thing is to keep the breech screw well lubed. I use hi temp bearing grease. While it ain't traditional it works. The balls have to be undersized to the bore, it's .650 bore size, you use a .614 ball. If you try to shoot with a bore sized ball they grow these neat little wings that make them look like a mini Russian satellite and they're not accurate. Once you get it figured out you can shoot all day with no problems. It's a little more intensive to clean but once you get used to it it's not bad. I will attempt to post pictures in the not too distant future, been busy tuning revolvers and got a little backed up. 1 on the bench, 2 waiting and another coming soon.

 

[JT-AR-MG42]

the Ferg is built from a parts set from the Rifle Shoppe.

Thanks for the info Jack.
I've read articles on the Ferguson, but never realized just how rare the survivors were.
I just figured they all got picked up by N.C. boys and handed down.
Next on the list is a call to the Rifle Shoppe to find out just how much needs done to have one.

JT

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

The parts set is just that, a parts set. I requested an assembled lock and breeched barrel. Cost a little more but worth it. During the build I discovered the lock had problems so I called them and they sent me another one. It's not a beginners kit, you do need some intermediate wood working and metal working skills plus some understanding of how the system works. I decided to make some minor changes and make it unique rather than historically accurate such as doing some relief carving and wire inlays plus adding barrel escutions for the barrel keys and lock bolt

 

[dave951]

Back to the OP-

Reenactor powder is probably the lowest quality black powder you can get. In the production of 1f, 2f, 3f etc, the grain size of the powder is put through a set of mesh sieves to keep the size uniform, hence the "f". Reenactor grade is all over the map and pretty much the dregs of the process. It's fine for blanks but if you care about accuracy, not so much.