Blackhorn 209

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rodwha

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Is BH 209 a 2 or 3F granulation?

I've been told I should try it out by using a small starter charge.

I have read that it compares to Triple 7's velocity vs volume, except that it's much cleaner and doesn't leave a "crud" ring. What about the amount of smoke?
 
Neither, it has its own granulation.

Whats your normal charge? I normally start my inlines off at 90 grains and what ever projectile i am using and then work from there.

Very little smoke, it does compare to T7 in velocity, but consistency is WAAAY more consistent, never have to swab, a snug dry patch alone removes 90+ % of the fouling.
 
As far as a compairing it to something else I don know.
I have used it in my inline with great results in accuracey and valosity.
On the container it has the starting loads for several differant weights of bullets.
Flip
 
I went from T7 to BH 2 years ago. I think it meters better and I like that Hoppes #9 cleans it out instead of water. ( I worry about rust too much). I noticed that I dont get much primer blow by with the BH as much as I did with T7. Not so much smoke but your scope will go orange with the bang :) Other than that the only thing I dont like is the price.
 
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I've yet to work on a load. I'm still breaking my rifle in (~101 shots).

I've been using 70 grns of Pyrodex RS and P with a .490" RB, 0.015" patch, and peanut oil and getting as small as a 1.5" group at 50 yds.

I've also considered using it in my Ruger Old Army.
 
Wont work the ROA, has to have a sealed ignition like the inlines, TC omega, tc encore,cva break action inlines, ect. Needs a 209 primer, #11 will not set it off.
 
I put a small charge of pyrodex in my CVA wolf and that ignited it. I still don't care for it, don't see any advantage other than it's clean. I don't mind swabbing the bore on the inline, breech plug comes out easy enough.

The CVA Wolf had problems igniting just a raw charge of the stuff. I even used a tip cleaner on the breech plug. But, I understand that CVA now has a special breech plug for the stuff. I'll pass, though. 777 works in that gun for me. Heckuva lot cheaper, too. Of course, Pyrodex is even cheaper.

Some day, I'll break down and order some black powder. I've still got ambition to make my own. But, in the wolf, 777 has worked GREAT! The black will be for the sidelocks and I'll probably get a good bit of 3F for the revolvers.
 
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I didn't start buying Pyrodex until, I think, late 70s when I couldn't get Goex or DuPont anymore. It works, but doesn't ignite as easily in sidelocks. That's why I converted my Hawken Hunter Carbine to small rifle primers, one reason. The other is the gizmo that does that seals rain out with an O ring, kinda nifty. :D

Blackhorn 209 will NOT fire in my sidelocks, even with the small rifle primer adapter. Won't reliably go off in my 209 primed Wolf, either, though. Seems to take a small thermo-nuclear explosion to set it off. As to granulation in the OP, it's like gravel compared to sand for anything else, HUGE grains.
 
the problem with the cva guns is the amount of primer blow by, you lose a lot of the hot gasses as it scorches the frame instead.

Great powder though, nothing on todays market will compete with it.

Small or large rifle primers will not set it off either. Some dont realize that BH209 has a water proof coating and a special coating to control burn rate. Put some in a glass of water and then take 2 more and try the test with t7 or pyrodex.
 
Maybe it's great stuff, but if it doesn't go bang, you ain't eatin' venison. I don't need to water it down in my CVA Wolf, it won't go bang regardless. :rolleyes:

I ain't gonna sweat it, though, too expensive to mess with, anyway. At the time I bought the can I have, I coulda got 2 lbs of Pyrodex. It was well less than a pound in the bottle.
 
I clean between shots with a damp brush, then swab with a dry cloth. Seems to work just fine and it's a lot easier to do than with my Hawkens'.

I''ve got the hardware, just need to order some chemicals and get to doing the BP production thing. I believe I can improve on all subs by going back to the basics, at least in ignition reliability. I'll still shoot 777 in the inline, though. :D But, the "holy black" shooters have been slowly convincing me. :D I just can't get store bought black without ordering it and paying the hazmat charges. Making it will avoid that if I can make good enough stuff. I have brush hippie's tutorials to go by and some other stuff. :D
 
get some moose milk for the hawken, just finished a 2 1/2" group at 100 yards with my 58 cva hawken. No swabbing and excellent patches.
 
MCgunner, let me make your life a little easier. Locate and get some Ballistol, used straight and it's a great gun oil, and moisture displacer mixed 10 to 1 it is a great "moose milk" for patch lube and barrel swabbing. BTW used straight it's also great for protecting your wood stock and for softening and protecting your leather holster.
 
I am reading LOTS of bad stuff about WD40 and guns in some forums. Maybe a little Google work will help in some areas. Hate to see good stuff get damaged.
 
I've used WD-40 several times in my stainless ROA and blued Deerstalker. It seems to do well, but they don't usually sit longer than a month.

I did buy some Ballistol, and used it this last time instead. I can't believe some people don't like the smell...
 
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