BLR Questions

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Carphunter

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Jan 31, 2005
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Looked at a 358 Win, straight stock, aluminum/stainless dura-touch 358.

Questions:
The straight stock uses a barrel band on the forearm. With the accuracy of these guns...is the banded forearm likely to be appreciably less accurate than the non-banded type found on the pistol grip guns?

Does the lever on straight stock guns normally have some clearance between itself and the stock, or should it be a tight fit or touching the stock? I'd say on this gun, the far end (with the loop) was away from the stock maybe 1/8". It was not flush to the gun, nor did it have like a consistent 1/16" or so clearance from the stock.

I have been looking for a blued/wood model... but this gun didn't offend me too much :) any known issues with their dura-touch stocks? or the stainless vs blued barrels?

Finally, and I'm gonna go looking for videos on this... I've seen people mention you don't want to take apart blr's for cleaning.... I don't know if they mean take apart the entire lever mechanism...or what. I'm concerned that with any gun i get, I'd prefer to be able to remove the bolt so I can do thorough breach to muzzle cleaning...preferably straight through the gun.... not bore snaking from the side, and preferably not muzzle cleaning. What am i looking at here? Does the bolt come out easily enough... or pita? I really ask this because later cleanings aren't so bad... but i generally do a lilja-style barrel break in which requires a lot of initial cleanings and copper removal when i get the gun.

Thanks
 
I've owned that exact model in .358 for decades. Took it to the range today just to make sure it's ready for deer season. Cold bore shot was dead on as it always is. It's accurate. I've lost count how many deer I have killed with it.

The gap you are talking about is normal. I just checked and snapped these pictures. If you're thinking about picking one up in .358 I hope you're a reloader because finding ammo is tough. I haven't reloaded any yet because I buy everything on the shelf when I see it and have 4 boxes left. When I shoot these up I'll be getting the dies. I'd love to have a bolt action in .358 some day.

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Re reading your post I see I don't have the exact model you're looking at. Mine is obviously old school blue and wood. Also, in the ~35 years I've owned it I've never removed the bolt and It's spent most of those years hunting the swamps of south Louisiana. With the exception of a ding or two on the stock it looks and operates as it did when it was new
 
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First thing to keep in mind, the BLR is a hunting rifle. It has a rather thin barrel heats up quick, so if you get one 3 shot groups will be your best bet when working up loads. All of the BLR's I've been around do their best work with the forearm bolt tightened just as tight as you can get it.
Do NOT take that lever out, those cogs and gears in the thing are timed, and if not put back together exactly right, there is no shortage of problems that will crop up. It's easy enough to clean from the muzzle when cleaning the barrel, and cleaning the inside of the action is easily accomplished thru the magazine opening.
 
Ok, thanks everyone for the comments.
I already have a savage bolt i built in 358, and am used to reloading for that... so good to go.
I can deal with the muzzle cleaning...just makes the initial barrel break in a bit more of a pain.
Think I'm gonna move forward with this. The gun and sights really came up nice for a brush gun...
That, or i'll put a nice low-power scope on her. Anyone know what the lowest mounting system you can find for them is? I've used rails before...but I think i'll try to get this scope as close to bore as possible.
THanks
 
This will be the first year I've used it with a scope. My eyes aren't as good as they used to be. I installed a picatinny rail to the top of mine for flexibility and used low rings (can't remember what brand at the moment) and it sits perfect with the 40 mm Nikon that's on it now. I have plans to pick up a Leupold when I see one for the right price.
 
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