CoalCrackerAl
Member
Yes please let us know.
Blu Dot .223 Loads
- Thread starter Cheach80
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Will do!
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2020
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Very curious about how it goes
Wish I could find some blue dot.my my 357s miss it.10 to 10 and a half grains behind a 158 gr. bullet is most accurate heavy load I've ever found. 13 grains enforcer is close but not quite. Wonder if alliant is ever gonna be on shelves I also need some be86 for my nines.
Have your uncharged cases upside down. When you charge one seat a bullet. It almost completely removes the risk of double charges.
I settled on 15 in 30-30, 30-40, 308. All with either a 110 or 150 plated. I just wrote the charge on the bottle. I didn't want to mix up charges especially with the Krag.
I tried Blue Dot for 30-30 Win. with 150gr Extreme plated with a 1600 fps velocity cap,
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?attachments/001-jpg.221899/
They shot ok but I think there is room for improvement. I think Xtreme should have offered a heavier bullet rated at 1600 fps. that would have helped my POI.
I'm using the Berry's plated. It works well in my wife's micro groove. But scatters in my brother's pre 64. His tears the plating.
I use the light Hornady Hornet bullets. I also have some over run Hornady 33 gr bullets they made for Remington that they loaded in 22 Magnum. I don’t recall the velocity right now but in 2 of my 223 and one 222 they are outstanding out to about 150 yd. Actually killed a badger at about 100 yd with them.
I have no problem whatsoever with the Blue Dot loads but I prefer the more or less pointed round nose 35 gr bullets from Hornady.
I have no problem whatsoever with the Blue Dot loads but I prefer the more or less pointed round nose 35 gr bullets from Hornady.
FROGO207
Member
I
Messed around with both Red Dot and Blue Dot in rifle rounds in the past. The Red Dot was less problematic and loads were easier to interpolate for good results. Might be less "spikey". Add to that the cost of Promo instead of Red Dot and it was an easy choice.
OP you said you are proceeding with testing so be careful. Do let us know the results.
Messed around with both Red Dot and Blue Dot in rifle rounds in the past. The Red Dot was less problematic and loads were easier to interpolate for good results. Might be less "spikey". Add to that the cost of Promo instead of Red Dot and it was an easy choice.
OP you said you are proceeding with testing so be careful. Do let us know the results.
*Update*
OP here. So I just finished loading a few rounds with Blue Dot ready for the range next set of days off.
Here is the recipe:
55gr FMJ
S&B SR Primer
Once fired cases (reprocessed)
OAL 2.2
Blue Dot Powder
Loaded rounds at:
4.5gr
6.0gr
7.0gr
8.0gr
All things being equal, the math says the 4.5gr should keep me sub sonic, barely. Fun to see if it works given there is so little powder. I went straight to 6.0gr to get some bulk in the case and after 5.0gr you are no longer sub sonic so I figured I step it up a bit. I chose not to load above 8.0gr as my goal again is a quiet round for my bolt .223. I also figured that if by some chance I did drop a double charge an accidental 16gr charge is probably my max without blowing my face off, and even then...
The obvious question/concern is how did I try to avoid double charges, well, I’m glad you asked! I first primed my brass and set it aside, I weighed each and every charge and did periodic 0 checks on my scale to be safe. Once my charge was weighed I would grab a case, flip it upside down to verify it was empty. I would then load my charge direct from the scale still able to visually see my desired charge weight. Once the brass was charged it went straight to the press and I seated my projectile. At this point I labelled my round and repeat.
Not sure what more I could do to be safer, I mean I was dripping sweat trying to measure as it was haha! A guy could weigh each round making sure all same charged rounds match to make sure you don’t have an oops as all 4 should match, if you have the scale to do it.
Anywho, they are ready to go. I have a little chrony that hopefully can tell us where we are sitting for fps. With that we can get an energy calculated and god willing a recipe for a relatively quiet yet accurate and effective small game round.
I was going to punch paper at 50 yards; is this acceptable or should I be playing at 100? Let me know and I’ll report back hopefully next week with some results and my face in tact!
*I also caught **** for reloading at the kitchen table. I put it all on the line for this
OP here. So I just finished loading a few rounds with Blue Dot ready for the range next set of days off.
Here is the recipe:
55gr FMJ
S&B SR Primer
Once fired cases (reprocessed)
OAL 2.2
Blue Dot Powder
Loaded rounds at:
4.5gr
6.0gr
7.0gr
8.0gr
All things being equal, the math says the 4.5gr should keep me sub sonic, barely. Fun to see if it works given there is so little powder. I went straight to 6.0gr to get some bulk in the case and after 5.0gr you are no longer sub sonic so I figured I step it up a bit. I chose not to load above 8.0gr as my goal again is a quiet round for my bolt .223. I also figured that if by some chance I did drop a double charge an accidental 16gr charge is probably my max without blowing my face off, and even then...
The obvious question/concern is how did I try to avoid double charges, well, I’m glad you asked! I first primed my brass and set it aside, I weighed each and every charge and did periodic 0 checks on my scale to be safe. Once my charge was weighed I would grab a case, flip it upside down to verify it was empty. I would then load my charge direct from the scale still able to visually see my desired charge weight. Once the brass was charged it went straight to the press and I seated my projectile. At this point I labelled my round and repeat.
Not sure what more I could do to be safer, I mean I was dripping sweat trying to measure as it was haha! A guy could weigh each round making sure all same charged rounds match to make sure you don’t have an oops as all 4 should match, if you have the scale to do it.
Anywho, they are ready to go. I have a little chrony that hopefully can tell us where we are sitting for fps. With that we can get an energy calculated and god willing a recipe for a relatively quiet yet accurate and effective small game round.
I was going to punch paper at 50 yards; is this acceptable or should I be playing at 100? Let me know and I’ll report back hopefully next week with some results and my face in tact!
*I also caught **** for reloading at the kitchen table. I put it all on the line for this
Last edited:
CoalCrackerAl
Member
Please be sure the bullet clears the bore with the lower charges. 4.5 is awful low..
AJC1
Member
I do almost what you did except I put the bullet in the case until I go to the press outside. It's a good process which prevents under and over charges. I recommend you do a first test at 50 because the drop is going to be much more than your used to unless you shoot a bunch of 22.
Hmmm...a stuck projectile would sure ruin a guys day.
stillquietvoice
Contributing Member
I've caught thar downpour as well, said it wouldn't be on the table if I has a room to put it in
Right! That is exactly what I said haha.
CoalCrackerAl
Member
Take an old cleaning rod along and a hammer. Also some oil. If you get a stuck round. You can drive it out. And continue your rage session.
Your process is good to go. I generally places primers cases upside down in the tray. So I have to flip them to put powder in. I agree with one charged case at a time. I even do that with compressed loads.
AJC1
Member
If you calculated 4.5 was going to be subsonic I would be inclined to try the 6 first. Jumping the ladder confuses me because working down is just as important as up.
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