Now I'm not saying blued gun with wood grips can withstand anything like a Glock 17 but...
A good blueing job like the older S/W's have seem to hold up better against rust than say the "ruff" blue guns like Sigs or the watered down paint Ruger calls "blueing"
I'd also note while my two blued 19's do in fact have the cylinder line and little spot at the muzzel you see most used revolvers with, BUT thats it, and I carry both of them in Kydex holsters.. My satin stainless 65 on the other hand shows every scratch, bump, and contact point it's ever had. I'm not the only one to notice this I think it was C.R. Sam or WESHOOT 2 who went into detail of the hardness of various steels and why this happened (and why they prefered blue guns).
On grips I've gone through several pairs of (off the rack) Stock S/W, Eagle and Ahernds wood grips and never ever had a pair crack. I do however have a stash of Pach's and Uncle Mikes that don't work properly anymore due to the "nut?" that recieves the grip screw coming loose. Also have a pair of rubber Houges that leave at least 1/3" of backstrap sticking out of my 65 so fit is an issue regardless of material used.
My factory plastic S/W auto grips are nice because they are thinner than wood grips can be but show more wear in 3 weeks than most wood grips would show in 3 years. My CCW wood grips don't "grab" my jacket every time I bend over like sticky synthetic grips. The slogon "Wood for show rubber for go" is proven wrong everytime Jerry Miculek one of the best revolver shooters ever hits the firingline with his prefered wood grips.
Nothing wrong with stainless and synthetic of course just pointing out blued and wood have their points...
A good blueing job like the older S/W's have seem to hold up better against rust than say the "ruff" blue guns like Sigs or the watered down paint Ruger calls "blueing"
I'd also note while my two blued 19's do in fact have the cylinder line and little spot at the muzzel you see most used revolvers with, BUT thats it, and I carry both of them in Kydex holsters.. My satin stainless 65 on the other hand shows every scratch, bump, and contact point it's ever had. I'm not the only one to notice this I think it was C.R. Sam or WESHOOT 2 who went into detail of the hardness of various steels and why this happened (and why they prefered blue guns).
On grips I've gone through several pairs of (off the rack) Stock S/W, Eagle and Ahernds wood grips and never ever had a pair crack. I do however have a stash of Pach's and Uncle Mikes that don't work properly anymore due to the "nut?" that recieves the grip screw coming loose. Also have a pair of rubber Houges that leave at least 1/3" of backstrap sticking out of my 65 so fit is an issue regardless of material used.
My factory plastic S/W auto grips are nice because they are thinner than wood grips can be but show more wear in 3 weeks than most wood grips would show in 3 years. My CCW wood grips don't "grab" my jacket every time I bend over like sticky synthetic grips. The slogon "Wood for show rubber for go" is proven wrong everytime Jerry Miculek one of the best revolver shooters ever hits the firingline with his prefered wood grips.
Nothing wrong with stainless and synthetic of course just pointing out blued and wood have their points...