Boiled linseed oil stock finishing

[wiscoaster]

It should be noted that it's difficult to get brushed-on finishes to self-level on gun stocks because the process depends on gravity. I've noticed this with shellac and varnish wanting to run if I hang the stock (I don't like to finish stocks by halfsies. I've tried making jigs to hold the stock horizontally through its action inlet screw holes, but I'm really too lazy to want to do that for each). I haven't noticed any running with Tru-Oil when applied manually (ie fingers) .... I think the fingers plus the friction generates heat which induces the Tru-Oil to immediately self-level. Just a wild guess, though. Comments?

 

[BigBlue 94]

Self leveling finishes, like poly or shellac, will always run when done on a vertical surface. The heavier the coat, the worse it runs. These finishes sit on top of the wood.

Rubbing Oils are a penetrating finish, with any excess wiped off. It doesnt have the chance to run as it soaks into the wood surface. These are arguably more durable because they cant chip or peel. Easier to touch up because of this too.

 

[grter]

I have used boiled linseed oil (cheap commercial type not pure) for nunchaku. Using a small to moderate amount of BLO allows most of the natural feeling of the wood to remain intact. Shellac-like coatings make the wood feel plastic like and slippery especially if your hands sweat. Wood finished with BLO can obtain a semi gloss finish with multiple coats and fine sanding in between but you will not get super gloss plastic using BLO.

The best BLO which I do not use is the pure edible stuff found at health food stores or specialty suppliers which is nothing more than flax oil. This stuff is supposed to be good but takes a really long time to dry between coats (weeks) and the process is slow. The commercial stuff has toxic driers (heavy metals these days the same plus cyanide in older formulas I think) in it to enhance the drying process.

There have been complaints about the cheaper BLO in gun forums concerning the restoration of old M1 garand stocks specifically that over the years the finish blackened. They recommended either using only the pure stuff or something else.

You will know you put too much of this stuff in too short a time when your wood starts to secrete the sticky oily BLO out when exposed to warm sunlight.

This stuff must be applied VERY THINLY in between coats and allowed to dry in between. The commercial BLO with it's drying enhancers ideally dries in 24 hours but this can vary depending on how humid your area is and THE PURE STUFF TAKES REALLY LONG TO DRY and complete in general.

Do not apply any other coats until the previous coat has dried. Once every day for a week, once every week for a month, once every month for a year and then once a year. This a general guideline that probably works well with BLO that has drier enhancers added but probably not so well with the pure stuff.

The bottom keep your coats as thin as possible and make sure it's dry (not sticky) before applying the next coat.

Using BLO is a project that takes some time but you do get a finish that although not as durable and waterproof as other slippery plastic like finishes is often adequate without losing the tactile sensation of the wood. The plastic like finishes hands down provide far more protection but at the price of imparting slippery artificial tactile sensations to the wood.

BLO does darken the wood a little but the grain becomes enhanced and the color is generally minimally altered but not always. Sometimes BLO has a tendency to turn blond in color over time when used on light colored wood. I like it others do not.

I will likely have to wait a few years to see if any my nunchaku start to blacken.

Oil finished woods feel much better to me than stuff coated with shellac or polyurethane type products. Whatever one may prefer I will say the difference in the way the wood feels is significant.

 

[wiscoaster]

I think origin and intended use have to figure in. Milsurps ought to get what they were originally finished with. Working rifles might be better off with poly varnish. BLO might be the best choice where appearance is first priority. No one finish is an absolute best in all cases.

 

[grter]

I think origin and intended use have to figure in. Milsurps ought to get what they were originally finished with. Working rifles might be better off with poly varnish. BLO might be the best choice where appearance is first priority. No one finish is an absolute best in all cases.

BLO was what was used on M1 Garand stocks from what I read but the cheap hardware store stuff that I use is probably not the same formula that was used back then.

Appearance yes it does enhance the wood grain but other stronger finishes can do that too. The feel of the wood and the ability of the wood to absorb some sweat rather than becoming slippery is something that the hard coats can't do.

In the old days and even today bees wax was/is applied to make the finish more durable but it still is not as durable as the slick hard and often synthetic finishes.

 

[wiscoaster]

BLO was what was used on M1 Garand stocks from what I read but the cheap hardware store stuff that I use is probably not the same formula that was used back then.

If it's "Sunnyside" brand BLO (yellow can) it has added drying agents* to accelerate drying time. But ... IMO, that's a good thing and the results are 100% satisfactory.

* but they don't say what they are on the can.

 

[grter]

A lot of different brands get their BLO (some people claim it shouldn't even be called that) from one huge supplier and just tack their brand name on it. The drying agents are heavy metals which are kind of toxic depending on time and amount of exposure but the older (not pure) formulas had some horrendous chemical driers in them that are not legal to use these days.

 

[wiscoaster]

... The drying agents are heavy metals which are kind of toxic depending on time and amount of exposure ...

DAMN!!! I didn't know that!! Wow, I guess I better not be rubbing it on with bare fingers any more. That will take away half the fun of using it.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Raw linseed oil doesnt take that long to dry if done in thin coats. I put a coat on my raw steel bench top and it was dry to the touch in a couple hours.