bore cleaner in gas tube of my ak

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phantomak47

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I was using a foaming bore claner in my ak and some cleaner got into the gas tube, I was wondering if that is ok and can I use brake cleaner in the gas tube to get all the fouling out. It seems that this would be a better choice than clp. any input is welcome
 
yeah, it's just gonna get dirty again :neener:

on topic: brake cleaner is fine and is basically the same thing that's sold for $9 a can as Bore Scrubber. I've heard that carb cleaner can do damage to the bluing and any finish you have on the wood though so I think I'd err on the side of caution since Brakleen works pretty well.
 
there isnt much you can do to mess up the gas tube unless you block it.

I wouldn't worry. Use some CLP and a bore brush and then pass a bore snake/rag/cleaning patches through it. It takes a lot (read: A LOT) of filth to stop an AK's gas system from working.
 
don't worry about it. gas systems on most firearms don't require alot of maintennance, especially the ak. my ex shot high power competition on a custom m-14 (selector removed) and she almost never touched the gas system. you're not gonna hurt it either way on an ak.
 
What can I do to get the carbon build up on the end of my gas piston. the rest of the piston is clean, but their is a lot of build up on the end. I havent had a chance to get to my guns, since I have been in college and I brought my ak to school to clean and modify. I tried paint thinner on the piston but that didnt work. what if I sanded it off? Its caked on that hard.
 
After 15 years of cleaning AK rifles this is the best way I have found. If you are going to clean a SKS rifle get a 50 cal bore brush for the gas tube.

Go to Wal-mart and get from these depts.

Sporting goods dept.
A pump spray bottle of Break-Free CLP www.break-free.com/
A 30cal and a 20 gauge bore brushes

Automotive dept.
A can of brake parts cleaner
A set of brushes or brush with brass or steel brissles. like this
www.woodcarvingstore.com/RotaryToolAccessories/CleaningBrushes.asp

Housewares dept.
roll of paper towels

Drug dept.
A new tooth brush.

When you get home swap out your new tooth brush for your old one.Spray down all the parts of your rifle with CLP and let it sit for 15 minuites. Use your old tooth brush to scrub the inside of the receiver and parts. Use the brass/steel brush on the gas piston. It will take several applications of CLP and scrubbing to get heavy amounts of carbon off the gas piston. A wire wheel in a electric drill can be used to cut down on the amount of scrubbing needed. Use the 30cal brush on the bore and the 20 gauge brush on the gas tube/gas block. Once everything is scrubbed down/clean put 4 paper towels in the bottom of the bag you brought the stuff home from Wal-mart in. Hold the parts and barrel over the bag and use the brake parts cleaner to rinse everything off. Spray till the brake parts cleaner running off the parts is clear then you know the part is clean. Brake parts cleaner removes everything,leaves no residue,and dries quickly. Spray a 4"x4" piece of rag and one patch with CLP. Rub the rag on every part inside and out to lube/protect it and run the patch through the bore. Put the rag and patch in a zip lock bag to use the next time you clean your rifle. Make sure to wipe the gas piston and the inside of the gas tube and gas block. The CLP will get into the pores of the metal and not let the carbon stick tight. So the next time you clean your rifle the brass/steel brissle brush will not be needed only the tooth brush. Take the bag with the paper towels which have absorbed all the brake parts cleaner and dirt outside or in the garage to let the bpc evaporate then throw it away.
 
I do clean the gas systems on my AK and SKSes. In the past I've skipped this and rust was the result. You do not need to get every last speck of fouling out, though. For example, I do not try to remove all the carbon fouling from the face of the gas piston. I'll scrub it a little bit with solvent and steel wool, but only to keep it under control. It isn't necessary to remove all of it.

I leave the inside of my gas cylinders with a light coat of whatever oil I'm using (usually either ATF or FP-10). This protects against corrosion but has no adverse effect when I next shoot the rifle.
 
Is it ok to use Hoppes #9 in the gas tube?
Click to expand...

You can use anything to clean the gas tube, but after you are done, you have to make sure the gas tube is bone dry. No solvent or oil whatsoever.
 
Quote:
"You can use anything to clean the gas tube, but after you are done, you have to make sure the gas tube is bone dry. No solvent or oil whatsoever."

This doesnt make sense, when you pull the bolt carrier group out of the gas tube, it "feels like" it should have oil or grease to lube it. You know, like the lubrication creates a drag effect, almost like a seal.
 
The gas cylinder/tube on gas operated semi auto rifles should be dry. If you use oil or grease, the carbon fouling from the (un)burnt powder will combine with the oil or grease in the gas cylinder/tube. This can become abrasive and/or gel-like and will cause problems with the gas operation.
 
"You can use anything to clean the gas tube, but after you are done, you have to make sure the gas tube is bone dry. No solvent or oil whatsoever."

This doesnt make sense, when you pull the bolt carrier group out of the gas tube, it "feels like" it should have oil or grease to lube it. You know, like the lubrication creates a drag effect, almost like a seal.
Click to expand...

Think of the pressure inside the barrel. The amount of pressure going through the gas tube is not as strong, but strong enough to vaporize whatever liquid you leave in it. The extremely hot gasses will blow that oil and grease right out.

Vaporized oil mist and eyeballs are not a good combo. That's why you want a dry gas tube. Care to guess how I learned this?
 
Care to guess how I learned this?
Click to expand...


Uhhhhmmmm..probably like I did...with a face full of vaporized hot oil ? ? ?

Not to be confused with the "Alberto VO-5 Hot Oil hair conditioner"
 
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