bought an M1A, few questions...

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PowerJoker6.0

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ive got a loaded M1A coming to me from pennsylvania as we speak, so psyched, just wondering what i should or should not stock up on as far as ammo goes? cleaning supplies? i have read that they like to be greased, what grease should i pick up? break in period? anything anyone can tell me i would appreciate. i cannot wait to hold this rifle...
 
Congratulations! Yer gonna love it!
OK, grease- just about any high performance grease found at any auto parts store. I like Super Lube synthetic in a grey tube.

Ammo- you can start with Winchester White Box 7.62 Nato, then keeping with polymer or fmj's- move upward and onward till you find what that rifle likes. From time to time, there is some good/great mil-surp available, but I reload mostly and don't keep track of what's available and what's good or not.

Break in is a loaded ballgame that I just won't play any more. There's lots of opinions that go both ways. I cleaned and shot mine after every range trip- no more no less.

Standard cleaning equipment- but make sure you get the cone shaped bore guide and don't booger your crown. Have fun!
 
Congrats on the purchase of an excellent rifle. I love mine.

For ammo, I am fond of the 147 to 150 gr FMJ/milsurp loads for general use. This is cheaper to get in bulk and will have adequate accuracy for most medium range work. I'll second the WWB 147 gr FMJ, as it is available for about seventy-five cents a round in my area, shoots about as accurate as any other FMJ load I've tried, and is adequately clean and completely reliable in my rifle. I use Federal Fusion 150 grainers for hunting as they shoot pretty close to the same as the ball load out the distances I shoot game with iron sights. If defense is on the agenda, I suppose a 150 gr JSP would be adequate but not ideal. I've heard good things about Hornady 155 gr TAP for that use, but have never tried it.

I have put some of Hornady's 168 gr Match load through though. I was about to put 10 rounds into about 1.5" @ 100 yards from the bench, again, with iron sights. Also heard good stuff about Federal and Black Hills 168 and 175 gr HPBT Match rounds. Guess it is up to you to try out some different match loads and see what your rifle likes. Most people recommend not going above the 175 gr weight in the M1A without some special tuning, as it can adversely affect reliability and lead to dangerous spikes in port pressure, and things like bent op rods.

I use Tetra Gun Grease on my roller-bearing and bolt lugs, as well as the threads to my gas cylinder plug, and a light coat of CLP or Hoppes #9 on everything else. The gas system, chamber and bore, bolt face, and firing pin channel are kept clean and dry, as per usual.

For cleaning, I prefer Otis and the like. The cable systems allow the M1A to be cleaned from the breech, which is always preferable. The M1A doesn't require a lot in the way of maintenance. I'll run a cable through the bore a couple times and take the gas system apart every few hundred rounds and clean it, more as a courtesy to the rifle than anything. And every 500 rounds or so, I'll take the rifle completely apart and give it a good wipe down, again, more to keep myself honest out of habit than anything. The rifle is more of a pain to disassemble for cleaning than a lot of more modern designs, but it doesn't need to be taken apart for that level of maintenance very often, and is in fact, not recommend unless absolutely necessary on bedded models, lest constantly removing it from the stock upset the bedding.

O, and mags--USGI or Taiwan Type-57 20 rounders are the only ones I've tried, and they seem to be the most highly recommended. I've had a couple failures to feed from the Taiwanese mags, but overall, the majority of the 1500 rounds I've put through the rifle has been through the original ten of these mags I bought with the rifle, and they've been very reliable. The two USGI 20 rounders I've had have been 100%. I've heard good things about the CMI 25 rounders but have never tried them, and hear they can interfere with a good prone position as well, so keep that in mind. Some people even prefer 10 rounders for prone work.

Other than that, get a good shooting sling and learn how to use it. And have fun with your new rifle!
 
congratulations on a great rifle, you will find they are hungry. i also use surplus 7.62 nato and runs great in my rifle. you can google it or i usually find it at gun shows, it usually sells for $.43-$.50 cents per round. i have learned alot from the guys over at m 14 forums, they have a great knowledge base on the m14/m1a series of rifles. good luck and i hope you enjoy your new rifle. be careful though they tend to multiply.
 
i must be psychic, i finished typing my OP and the phone rang, it was the gun shop, the gun was in. so i went down and picked it up. all i can say is WOW, what a handsome rifle... it feels so natural in your hands, im so excited. ive been trying to get one for over a year now. i got exactly what i wanted, a standard length, loaded rifle with the NM barrel and walnut stock.

thanks for the quick replies guys, okay im gonna go stare at it some more ill check back in later
 
Congrat on the gun. Be prepared to feed it they are addicting to shoot. I like to shoot the 168 grain American eagle. I get 1 moa out of it and around here it can be fount for 14.99 so im happy
 
Cool beans man!
I don't know if it needs it or not, but I couldn't resist rubbing my stock down with tung oil every couple of days for about a month. Man, that is one fine looking result!
 
One of my shooting buddies runs brown bear through his m1a socom all the time. Shoots with decent accuracy and never jams or has a miss fire. I know thats not PC for a m1a, but its cheap.

However, for break in I would go with a nice potent round.
 
I would only buy CMI magazines as there are too many fake USGI and T57 mags circulating now. CMI is the current USGI supplier and they are reasonably priced at 44mag.com
 
There is a bit of German NATO on the market, good price, I just pick up a thousand rounds. It shoots very well. I like Tetra grease, use plenty of it, these rifles run on grease. CMI mags from 44mag.com are the best deal around.
 
I was given advice over 20 years ago "Use lubriplate in the summer and LSA in the winter".

As general advice it was good.

Rifle Grease is a NLGI 3 grease, axle grease is NLGI 2. Any waterproof grease will work just fine. I paint the stuff on with a 1/4" artist brush.

You will find in temps below 40 that grease is too thick. My club has a Garand Match in December, in cold years past, guys using grease had failures to feed with grease.

I use Mobil One or equivalent in cold weather.

From what I have heard, in arctic weather, take all lube off.

I believe the Lubrophobia (pathological fear of lubricants) of the Army is due to the institutional memory or Korea. In the arctic conditions under which our GI’s fought, guns jammed and froze up. The Army figured out that any grease or oil in arctic conditions was bad .
 
snapped some pictures of her, love it.

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Nice rifle!

Your going to need some stuff for your new rifle.
Gas Cylinder wrench, drill bits for cleaning the gas cylinder and piston, Flash hider removal tool, flash hider alignment tool, hand guard removal tool, ratcheting chamber brush etc. Good Luck!
 
Power Joker, I got about enuf cash saved up for that same rifle (Springfield Armory?) how much you pay for it, I am thinking 1400-1700 depending on a few details...
 
I think your sling is on incorrectly. The metal part that can unhook should be attached to the butt so it can be unhooked to use the sling as a shooting sling.
Agreed about the flash suppressor; it will have an opening much larger than .308 to prevent bullet impact. Therefore the cleaning rod can still hit the crown.
 
Dang, already have a sling & 20 rd magazine! Did you get the coupon for accessories from Springfield Armory in the box? At first I had buyers remorse when I bought mine because I already have an FAL. (What do I need another expensive rifle for?) But after I shot it, I grinned and said to myself, "It'll be OK". All I'm getting next is a Turner Saddlery sling and a lot more cheap ammo where I can find it. Maybe I'll get a canvas GI sling too.
 
I've read this thread for some good info. I have two of these that I did some work on the stocks and I really like them. I have the NM and the standard rifle. The NM can shoot a ragged 1.25 inch hole at 100 meters, the standard shoots close to 2.5 inch groups at 200 meters. I like them both but really need somebody to show me about those drill bits etc. My level of cleaning is very basic, with patches, oil and a boresnake. I try to grease it like an M1 but not sure what that bolt roller is or whatever. Where do you get all those tools you mentioned?
 
You would have to have 10s of thousands of cleaning rod rubs before you affected the crown, with a segmented steel rod.

Use a one-piece coated rod and it's a non-issue.

Go to post #6:
http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/m1-garand/109460-muzzles-versus-cleaning-rods.html

For ammo, any of the European or South African 7.62x51 surplus works great. Everything is expensive right now. Ammoman.com has German surplus at $.50/rd, probably as good as you'll find. Most people that have tried it say to avoid Indian and Malaysian ammo. Ammoman usually has good/best price and it includes shipping so no surprises.

You can call Turner and ask if they have any 2nds available and save yourself a few dollars on a sling.

I know that taking a file to your new rifle is the last thing on your mind, but...
Make sure the gas plug is torqued properly, then make a little witness mark between the gas plug and gas lock and then you'll always know where it should be.

Fulton Armory is a good source for parts, but expensive. Chestnut Ridge is good for a first look, then try Fulton if they don't have something.

For general reference, "M14-M1 Garand Shop Manual," by Jerry Kuhnhausen is a good book to have.

Enjoy.
 
Another source of info is the M14 firing line forum. Brownells has some M1-A related tools also. For a bore guide you can make one from an empty 12 gage casing, punch out the primer and drill to cleaning rod diameter or just over. It'll work till you find one you like. For ammo try aim web site. get as much ammo as you can, your going to need it. I'm taking mine out in the morning if it doesn't storm. Have fun!
 

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I've read this thread for some good info. I have two of these that I did some work on the stocks and I really like them. I have the NM and the standard rifle. The NM can shoot a ragged 1.25 inch hole at 100 meters, the standard shoots close to 2.5 inch groups at 200 meters. I like them both but really need somebody to show me about those drill bits etc. My level of cleaning is very basic, with patches, oil and a boresnake. I try to grease it like an M1 but not sure what that bolt roller is or whatever. Where do you get all those tools you mentioned?
For the specialty cleaning tools I would highly recommend these folks.
http://sadlak.com/si_tools.html

Grease the bolt roller with a 45acp case full of grease.

Read about tuning the gas cylinder and other tweaks here.
http://www.m14tfl.com/upload/
 
You would have to have 10s of thousands of cleaning rod rubs before you affected the crown, with a segmented steel rod.

I don't know what the number is, but I'm sure you're way too high. I had an Enfield that had serious muzzle wear and shot horribly until it was shortened. Taking care of the muzzle is not an imaginary issue.
 
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