I know there has to be a thread on this subject but I couldnt find it. I am interested in getting into bow hunting but know absolutely nothing about it. What would be a good resource for technique, accuracy, and which bow to get? I could spend about $300-$500 on a bow.
Bow hunting for beginners?
- Thread starter hobgob
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Thatmichhunter
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best advice I can give you on finding a bow and starting shooting is go to a good pro shop and shoot alot of bows, only you will know what feels right for you.
wheelgunslinger
Member
What do you imagine you'd enjoy shooting? Recurve, compound, longbow?
Saying you want to get into bowhunting is like saying you want to buy an automobile so you can drive.
Saying you want to get into bowhunting is like saying you want to buy an automobile so you can drive.
Thatmichhunter
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there have been ALOT of very good compounds released in the last 5-8 years that would fit your budget very well. I might suggest looking into the forum at www.archerytalk.com there is alot of very good information on that sight, especially as far as getting started, and a good classifieds section.
451 Detonics
Member
You can hunt beginners with a bow where you live? Sounds like fun! Is it an open season?
All kidding aside I would suggest finding a local archery club and talk to folks. Most will let you try their bows and they can help a newbie with all kinds of equipment selection.
All kidding aside I would suggest finding a local archery club and talk to folks. Most will let you try their bows and they can help a newbie with all kinds of equipment selection.
Fishenguy
Member
Bow hunting
I have been bow hunting for years and use a recurve. Look for a archery store in your area and ask them if there is a archery club with a range. There are a lot more bow clubs around than you might think. If you find one, join it. You will meet a lot of people that are more than willing to teach you the art of archery. Also the club shoots will help you learn how to shoot your bow.
I have been bow hunting for years and use a recurve. Look for a archery store in your area and ask them if there is a archery club with a range. There are a lot more bow clubs around than you might think. If you find one, join it. You will meet a lot of people that are more than willing to teach you the art of archery. Also the club shoots will help you learn how to shoot your bow.
wheelgunslinger
Member
Yeah, archery and bowhunting require practice and some level of discipline with shooting form. That's why a lot of people own bows that sit in the back of their closet.
Fishenguy is right about finding a club that shoots together. However, a good beginner compound is really not difficult to find. And, you don't have to spend $1000 on a nice bow to get a good bow.
I shoot recurve as well, but used to shoot compound. Still have my old PSE compound from the late 80's that is as or more accurate than the brand new stuff.
Archery is all about the guy behind the string.
Fishenguy is right about finding a club that shoots together. However, a good beginner compound is really not difficult to find. And, you don't have to spend $1000 on a nice bow to get a good bow.
I shoot recurve as well, but used to shoot compound. Still have my old PSE compound from the late 80's that is as or more accurate than the brand new stuff.
Archery is all about the guy behind the string.
Armored farmer
Member
I think that recurves are the essence of archery....I have hardly shot my compound since I picked up the recurve.
Limeyfellow
Member
I tend to prefer recurve bows for such things too. I just find compound bows, even though they have a lighter pull to be too busy and distract. I tend to not enjoy all the addons either and go with more primitive bow technology setup. The best thing I ever did was design and build my own archery stand from 2x4 beams and some carpet and old floatation foam so I can put in the practice necessary. That with a little instruction will help you along the way.
I do want to get into traditional war bows however. Longbows with really high poundage pulls.
I do want to get into traditional war bows however. Longbows with really high poundage pulls.
Jorg Nysgerrig
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- 7,822
I'm moving this over to the Hunting from NFW to see if it gets a bit more traction.
dprice3844444
member
bowsite.com has compounds as well as recurves/longbows 3 rivers archery lancaster archery supply gander mountain dicks sporting goods bass pro shops etc bowsite has groups from kansas also
countertop
Member
I just got a used Mathews outback, fully outfitted and with a target and a half dozen new arrows for $400 at an archery shop here in DC. I'd suggest, as others, to check out local archery shops and see which one you click with best and then see what kind of bows they have in stock. Mathews sells the most. And everyone I know who shoots seems to aspire to one. So I was kind of stoked to get it.
Sunray
Member
Shooting a bow and hunting with one are two very different things. You must be able to shoot a bow well enough at a given distance(20 yards is enough) before you even think about hunting. It's nothing like shooting a rifle.
Go to an archery shop, not a shop that sells bows, to get fitted for the bow and the arrows. Most of 'em have a club too. It's absolutely essential that you start doing upper body exercise. Do not buy any bow of a draw weight that is more than the weight of a box that you can easily lift.
$300-$500 might be light for a new compound too. Up here, a compound can run close to a grand. You don't need to spend that much anywhere though. Used, from a shop, isn't a bad thing. Don't buy used arrows though. Arrows can run close to $100 per dozen with no point of any kind, as well.
You need to check your local hunting regs for the legalities too. Most States have minimum draw weight, broad head weight and size is for deer, etc. The archery shop will be able to tell you that.
"...want to get into traditional war bows..." If you're thinking about a 14th Century English war bow. Think in terms of 150 pounds draw weight. You're too old.
Go to an archery shop, not a shop that sells bows, to get fitted for the bow and the arrows. Most of 'em have a club too. It's absolutely essential that you start doing upper body exercise. Do not buy any bow of a draw weight that is more than the weight of a box that you can easily lift.
$300-$500 might be light for a new compound too. Up here, a compound can run close to a grand. You don't need to spend that much anywhere though. Used, from a shop, isn't a bad thing. Don't buy used arrows though. Arrows can run close to $100 per dozen with no point of any kind, as well.
You need to check your local hunting regs for the legalities too. Most States have minimum draw weight, broad head weight and size is for deer, etc. The archery shop will be able to tell you that.
"...want to get into traditional war bows..." If you're thinking about a 14th Century English war bow. Think in terms of 150 pounds draw weight. You're too old.
ZeroJunk
Member
When I started bow hunting anything over 200 feet per second was acceptable. Arrows were aluminum. I think they reached the point of diminishing returns several years ago. What I'm saying is that you can find a good bow if you look around complete for a couple of hundred bucks that will be fine for deer. Most of them can be adjusted somewhat for draw length. Chances are you can find a good used bow and get a bow shop to set it up for you for a reasonable price. Then you can play with it and see where you want to go from there. Sixty pounds is plenty of draw weight and within most men's capabilities. Don't torque the bow with your left hand ( provided you are right handed) and pick an anchor point that you are comfortable with and practice in your yard. Somebody who is familiar with bows should help you to begin with so you don't start with a bad habit. After that it's just like shooting anything else, hold it steady and follow through until the arrow has left the bow. Know where your bow shoots at given yardages, and hunting from above in a stand changes that. Measure some yardages from your stand and mark them.
terryknight
Member
i think the best advice you can get has been given go to an archery shop and try several bows. and then practice, practice, practice
1911 guy
Member
Bows are like cars, they come out with new models every year and you can sometimes score a very nice bow at a reduced price simply because it is the previous years model. 300 to 500 should set you up pretty well with just a little bit of patience and research on your part.
Decide early on if you want to shoot finger release or mechanical release. This will determine what arrow rest you need and how your arrows should be nocked. If you go the finger release route, avoid the shooting gloves and use a tab. The gloves get a groove in them after a while and the string rolls out of it, affecting acuracy.
Don't bother with an overdraw setup. Waste of money and effort.
Longer limbed bows are more forgiving for a beginner and offer you a choice on release method. Shorter limb bows are far less forgiving and you can't shoot finger with them because of the string angle when drawn. They require a rmechanical release. They are also slightly slower, thus cost a bit less than the latest and greatest "WunderBow". Speed is far less of a concern than marketers wold have you believe, because NO bow is even approaching the speed of sound, so the animal will still be able to "jump the string" on occassion. Trajectory can be manipulated by draw weight and arrow weight.
Have a professional or knowlegable person set up your new bow. They rarely come set properly from the factory. Tiller is almost always wrong, even on high end bows, because they know the user is going to mess with it anyway.
Shoot field points and broadheads of the same grain weight, and arrow shafts of the same I.D./O.D. dimensions. All the same length, too, of course. Buy a dozen custom made arrows, it'll run less than a hundred bucks and will last for years. Shoot six and save six for actual hunting.
re-zero with broadheads before season opens. Even though they are the same weight as your field points, they fly differently because of aerodynamic differences.
When you do get a bow, it is better the shoot six good arrows a day than to plug away for hours, this results in fatigue and bad habits, which become ingrained. Good practice makes good shooting. Sloppy and forced practice makes sloppy and forced shooting.
Follow through! Hold the bow on target until the arrow strikes. Hold the bow with your thumb and forefinger. The lower fingers induce movement upon release and will throw a shot inconsistently.
Have fun with it! If it's not fun, you'll stop doing it and archery is a highly perishable skill. It is NOT like riding a bicycle.
Decide early on if you want to shoot finger release or mechanical release. This will determine what arrow rest you need and how your arrows should be nocked. If you go the finger release route, avoid the shooting gloves and use a tab. The gloves get a groove in them after a while and the string rolls out of it, affecting acuracy.
Don't bother with an overdraw setup. Waste of money and effort.
Longer limbed bows are more forgiving for a beginner and offer you a choice on release method. Shorter limb bows are far less forgiving and you can't shoot finger with them because of the string angle when drawn. They require a rmechanical release. They are also slightly slower, thus cost a bit less than the latest and greatest "WunderBow". Speed is far less of a concern than marketers wold have you believe, because NO bow is even approaching the speed of sound, so the animal will still be able to "jump the string" on occassion. Trajectory can be manipulated by draw weight and arrow weight.
Have a professional or knowlegable person set up your new bow. They rarely come set properly from the factory. Tiller is almost always wrong, even on high end bows, because they know the user is going to mess with it anyway.
Shoot field points and broadheads of the same grain weight, and arrow shafts of the same I.D./O.D. dimensions. All the same length, too, of course. Buy a dozen custom made arrows, it'll run less than a hundred bucks and will last for years. Shoot six and save six for actual hunting.
re-zero with broadheads before season opens. Even though they are the same weight as your field points, they fly differently because of aerodynamic differences.
When you do get a bow, it is better the shoot six good arrows a day than to plug away for hours, this results in fatigue and bad habits, which become ingrained. Good practice makes good shooting. Sloppy and forced practice makes sloppy and forced shooting.
Follow through! Hold the bow on target until the arrow strikes. Hold the bow with your thumb and forefinger. The lower fingers induce movement upon release and will throw a shot inconsistently.
Have fun with it! If it's not fun, you'll stop doing it and archery is a highly perishable skill. It is NOT like riding a bicycle.
1911 Guy is spot on. I would add find a mentor. Someone to show you the ropes and WATCH you shoot. They can help you see the things you cannot. I would suggest a season of league if you can. Not to compete, but to get 60 arrows down range one evening a week. This will help the learning curve, and the scoring will show your improvement.
ZeroJunk
Member
Here is a good example of what is available out there that will work great. Crazy to spend a kilodollar on a bow just starting out when you don't even know if you will like it.
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/spo/2331088458.html
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/spo/2331088458.html
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