Brass frame Remington cylinder lockup

[BowerR64]

Bower64
I assume you are referring to powder fouling of the cylinder pin (arbor). I liberally apply lube to that area and clean/relube the pin When swapping cylinders. Periodically I remove the pin, dip in melted beeswax, let it harden, and repeat a couple times. I reinstall the cylinder and seat the pin. Any dry excess beeswax that gets removed When the pin is inserted seems to help in preventing effects of fouling of the pin in that área.

Yes the fouling.

This is the only brass frame Remington 1858 ive ever shot and its the only one that when i shot it the cylinder would always lock up solid after every shot.

I tried pyrodex P and RS, T7 3F and T7 2F i think i even shot black MZ from it and every time the cylinder would lock up solid.

Ide have to move it back and forth while trying to rotate it and move the hammer then it would eventually free up for my next shot.

Only thing i could figure was the brass was pitted around the cylinder pin where it comes threw under the barrel. It didnt matter if i used ballistol, or antiseaze grease nothing helped it from locking up.

 

[elhombreconnonombre]

Hmmm???????

 

[Packman]

Bower,

Just based on your description of what that's doing, I'd be a little afraid of that gun. I'm no gunsmith, but my thought would be a bent frame or cylinder rod.

Or, as I think about it, maybe something is going on with the bolt. It only happens after you fire it?

 

[BHP FAN]

Cylinder stop/bolt has a broken leg, or the hand has a broken spring. I'd go with the cylinder stop, seeing the heavy drag mark arounf the cylinder. check the cylinder stop/trigger double leaf spring as well.

 

[Packman]

Ohh, BHP Fan might be on to something with the hand having a bad spring. Take a look at that, that may be contributing. The way it has that drag line going on, something is definitely messed up with the bolt though.

Once when I cleaned my 1858 I didn't get the trigger/bolt spring totally tightened down, and had problems with the lockup. Double check and make sure that screw is tight. Just pull the trigger guard off, it's the big round screw underneath there, right in front of the trigger.

 

[BHP FAN]

that might just do it1 if nor its a short step from there to checking out the rest of the guts. remember on the Remmie you have to push the hammer down to check the hand spring, rather than pulling up, as on a Colts. I'm still betting on the cylinder stop/bolt or it's spring. I hope you'll get lucky and just have to tighten it up, like Packman said.

 

[BowerR64]

Ive since traded it away but nothing was broken. When i got it new or used form the pawnshop it was already pretty rough. The cylinder had that line already on it.

The cylinder gap on this remington was super thin also. Of all the Remington clones i have this one and the shooter had the thinest gap.

The barrel on this brass remmie also was SUPER pitted. I could never run a patch threw it without it snagging and ripping the patch up. It wasnt well taken care of.

But i will say this, since i decided it was my "project gun" i shot it ALOT and i got that thing dialed in more then any other gun i own.

Maybe thats what the last owner did also, i got the stainless and the brass both at the same pawnshop so i figured they were both owned buy the same guy originaly.

 

[BHP FAN]

that stainless one seems in much better shape.

 

[BowerR64]

Bower,

Just based on your description of what that's doing, I'd be a little afraid of that gun. I'm no gunsmith, but my thought would be a bent frame or cylinder rod.

Or, as I think about it, maybe something is going on with the bolt. It only happens after you fire it?

I thought that since it was a brass frame but it was weird once i wiggled it and got the cylnder free it spun fine and nothing ever rubbed.

The first time it did it i about took it home but it was the only gun i brought and i wasnt ready to give up just yet. It kept doing it so i just figured it was the nature of the brass frame remmies

Like i said i wish i had tried it after i polished the frame right around the cylinder bolt to see if that fixed it. That spot had some pitting and it was never really smooth in that spot.

 

[Hellgate]

If the hand spring were broken the cylinder would fail to turn when cocked unless the gun were aimed downward. You would still be able to turn the cylinder by hand. A broken hand spring will not sieze up the gun. I suspect the problem is a trigger/bolt screw, spring, or bolt leg problem.